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Sluggish acceleration in 41-year-old RV

  

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1985 Ford Econoline E350 7.5L (Fleetwood Tioga RV)
 
I have a sluggish acceleration and the engine has a hard time getting into first gear. The transmission was replaced with a Jasper transmission about five months ago. Right after the transmission replacement the engine just had speeds to around 20 mph going up a steep hill with a 1992 Geo Metro on a Tow dolly in drive the whole trip to Arizona to California. When I shift into drive it does not seem like it is all the way in drive it is close to the neutral position. Once I got passed a hill the acceleration seemed fine. Stop and go traffic now it takes a while to get up to speed. Today I barely got up a hill until I went in 2nd gear before I was going to call AAA. There is black smoke while accelerating. There is no blue smoke at idle. I'm not sure if the piston rings are bad. The coolant reservoir gets close to where it looks like it would overflow. There is no overheating and the coolant level stays full on the reservoir and radiation. Sometimes I have the engine running for a few minutes and the radiator is cool to the touch and the upper radiator hose is cool to the touch. Other times the radiator is mostly hot to the touch and the upper radiator hose is hot to the Touch. I bought a brand new thermostat I'm probably going to put in. The engine oil level is between the marks of the dipstick and is not mixed with coolant. The transmission dipstick is passed the mark while hot. After I replaced a radiator I added three quarters. I think I'm over by a quart and a half of transmission fluid. I usually add only one quart after a radiator replacement. I have a back fire in the engine compartment by this canister I think after turning the engine off. I seen a vacuum line missing from the air filter cover. Also, there is a second vacuum line missing on the mental part of this anti backfire valve. I'm not sure what the name of the part is. After moving across the street the engine hesitates a lot after I turn the engine off. If I drive for a while there is no backfire but hesitates after I turn off the engine. if I hold the break pedal for about 30 seconds and turn the key off the engine shuts off and does not stutter sometimes. If the engine is setting for awhile I have to press the gas pedal about 12 times to prime the carburetor then the engine will start up right away. I checked the radiator completely cold full. I didn't start the engine days ago and there was a ton of pressure as if the engine was running and you took off a radiator cap off. There was oil and carbon on the spark plugs. I replaced five spark plugs the other three I have to still take off the wires are hard to take off and the last spark plug I was worried about breaking in half with all the forth I put on. I'm not sure the mileage because it turns back to 0 at 99,000.  I don't have a OBD 1 scanner. I have a picture of the canister anti backfire valve that is missing a vacuum line on the metal part. I'm going to use vacuum line caps for now because I do not know where the missing vacuum lines go to. Then there is a big rubber hose on the canister too that is attached. I'm not sure how to upload a picture of the canister on this message. The carburetor I cleaned and the springs and all the moving parts on a carburetor with carburetor cleaner and then PBA blaster. The carburetor I had the engine running while spraying the inside of the carburetor top plates in the throat a bunch of bursts of carburetor cleaner only. The carburetor is only 1/4 of the way open while idling. The carburetor was about 3/4 open before when the engine was idling months ago.
 
 
Mike 
[personal information redacted]

This topic was modified 2 weeks ago 3 times by Chuck Tobias
2 Answers
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Posted by: @geometro05

There is black smoke while accelerating.

Your mixture is too rich or you're misfiring, or both.

Posted by: @geometro05

I'm not sure if the piston rings are bad.

Why not perform a compression or leakdown test and find out? On something that old it is not a bad idea to verify the internal condition of the engine.

Posted by: @geometro05

I don't have a OBD 1 scanner.

This is the most economical OBD1 scan tool:

https://youtu.be/CnQw6xMAYlE

(Or, a short length of wire as shown in the video.)

You can find a troubleshooting and repair manual for the van your RV is based on at the link below:

https://lemon-manuals.la/Ford/1985/E%20350%20Van%20V8-460%207.5L/Repair%20and%20Diagnosis/

Posted by: @geometro05

I'm not sure how to upload a picture of the canister on this message.

See the topic "READ THIS FIRST - Forum Guide" conspicuously posted near the top of the main page.

 


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