Hi Scotty, I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey EX-L, 3.5L V6, automatic, 188,000 miles.
When I let the engine idle/warm up for more than a minute or so the engine light comes on and shortly after it flashes, the engine shutter and there is a rubber burning smell. If I try driving it like this, engine revs are low and power is weak.
If I shut the engine off, wait a minute and restart, the check engine light is still on, but it does not flash and I can drive it just fine with exeption of ECO mode not coming on, which is the cylinder management system shutting off half the engine.
The OBD code says random misfire. If I clear the code the engine light disappears and as long as I do not let it idle it runs just fine.
I have taken it to 5 different mechanics including the dealer and have had compression, coils, spark plugs, battery, alternator, EV sensors, engine mounts etc. either replaced or checked.
I also do my regular oil changes, have had the timing belt and water pump recently replaced as well as all other needed maintenance.
It is a good vehicle, however, in the winter it is nice to be able to let it idle to warm up.
This problem started approximately 4 years ago when the alternator failed and was replaced, I checked with the mechanic and he said he installed an OEM one.
I continue to drive it, either putting it in drive soon after starting or clearing the code if it comes up.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thankyou
Vincent Covatta
rubber burning smell. If I try driving it like this, engine revs are low and power is weak.
Are you losing oil? Did you have your exhaust back-pressure measured or catalytic converter checked out?
I continue to drive it
Never drive around with a flashing engine light. It doesn't just mean that something is wrong. Once you start having a flashing light, it's the computer letting you know that you are causing damage, and you're just adding potentially thousands of dollars to your repair bill (or car replacement, who knows).
If I clear the code the engine light disappears and as long as I do not let it idle it runs just fine.
Clearing codes does not fix the problem. You're just hitting the snooze button on your alarm.
I have taken it to 5 different mechanics
then they were not proper mechanics. A mechanic is someone who can fix a misfiring engine. Keep looking.
The OBD code says random misfire.
What is the actual code? (P0300?) Were there multiple codes? Freeze-frame data should have been set when the code triggered, has that been checked for clues?
Many things can cause misfires even in a newer vehicle and that thing is 20 years old with high mileage. In live data what do your fuel trims look like? What about misfire counts, are there particular cylinders misfiring the most frequently? Are sensor outputs OK? How old is your fuel filter? Is fuel pressure within specification? Any vacuum leaks? Drippy fuel injectors?
You might also want to check the troubleshooting section of the site FAQ.
I have taken it to 5 different mechanics including the dealer
Did any of them actually try to diagnose the problem or did they just throw parts at it? (All too many mechanics these days are just parts changers. You need a diagnostician.)
This problem started approximately 4 years ago when the alternator failed and was replaced, I checked with the mechanic and he said he installed an OEM one.
It's possible something was disturbed during the installation. Also new parts, even OEM, are defective out of the box all too often and there are a lot of counterfeits around. It cannot be assumed that new parts are good. Have the alternator and battery been load tested?
Have you changed out the air filter, cabin air filter & fuel filter? Maybe check out how the temperature sensor is doing, and spray the MAF (MAF spray only).
Shot in the dark but make sure the alternator/battery connections are solid since the replacement, no corrosion, tight connection, etc.
Which codes? Were there any additional codes?
