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2008 Hyundai Santa Fe idling problem and Check engine light won't go off

  

1
Topic starter

Hi Scotty, 

Thanks for what you are doing. First-time driver and I learned a lot from you.

I bought a 2008 Hyundai Santa Fe with a 2.7L V6 engine about 10 000 miles ago, my first car. Now it has 169 000 miles. About 8 000 miles ago, 2-3 weeks after I changed the oil and did fuel injector cleaning, the Check Engine light turned on with P2187 and P2189 codes (System too lean ai Idle Bank 1 and Bank 2). I checked the gas tank cap (which was ok visually) and erased the code. The same code came back after two or three months of driving. After consulting with a local mechanic I erased the code again (thinking it's because of the bad quality gasoline).

After couple of weeks the check engine light came back again and turned off itself. I was driving on a highway on cruise control at 80 mph. While going up a small hill, the car got heated, the check engine light came on and I felt a strong gasoline smell. I stoped and let the car cool down. The check light went off itself and the car was driving fine.

I changed the engine oil and transmission fluid after 5000 miles (I didn't feel the gear change was smooth at the low gears) and drove for a month or two. The same codes came back. I ignored the light, but the car started hesitating, and I noticed the car was revving up and down slightly at the traffic light. I cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body with an appropriate cleaner. The idling restored and the car hesitated less. But the same code came back after a couple of weeks. I drove for a while with the light on.

I tried to erase the code but it came back the same day. The car started hesitating again, no power, poor idleing, the rpm fluctuated at the traffic light to the point that the car started shaking and I had to turn off the engine and start again (the rpm at start (idle) was about 500). Sometimes the engine just died before I turned it off. The car started to get heated (I have to mention that I left the car idling several times for 15-20 min at the parking lot with no AC on before that). I checked the oil level and noticed the engine started to burn oil. I couldn't find any leaks (visually) and I just topped the oil little bit. Also I smelled the gasoline.  

Today, I changed the spark plugs, pcv valve, replaced the intack manifold gasket, the gasket between the intack manifold and throttle body and cleaned up throttle body and MAF sensor again. The air filter is clean. I checked the purge solenid valve by blowing in it (I didn't have vacuum pump) and it felt ok (it didn't pass any air). The car started to drive much better, no hesitation, no shaking. But the light came back right away. I haven't checked the code yet. But I am sure it is the same code. 

So what should I do?

Should I replace the purge solenoid valve? -> the car didn't start right away couple of times right after I refueled the car.

Or replace the throttle body -> I noticed that the valve inside the throttle body is inclined a little bit and there is a space for air to pass. I checked that when the battery was disconnected and I thought that when the car is on, the computer would adjust it. I also noticed some black spots between the throttle body and intack manifold. Does it mean the throttle body went bad.

Or replace the MAF sensor?

Or O2 sensor?

Or replace the fuel pump? I was traveling between cities and drove on a highway with low fuel level for a long time before I reached the gas station. Autozone doesn't sell fuel pump filter, because it comes with the fuel pump itself and I can not afford it. Could it be that fuel pump went bad and how can I test it?

Or replace the head gasket? I noticed some black spots from head gasket. But it is not leaking, not big and looks old to me. I was stupid and drove at very high speed, almost at max speed on a highway for extended time when I first bought the car, I was testing the car's limits. But it was about 9000 miles ago and there was no problems after that, no other codes other than mentioned above. Also I left the car several times idling with AC on for extended time in Arizona for some reasons. Could it be I damaged the engine? 

I can not ignore the code because I have to pass emission test.

I can not erase the code because it comes back almost right away.

I can not financially afford playing around with parts or go to a good mechanic.

Thanks for your help, your knowledge and advise.

 

Best regards and Happy Holidays

Aibek Mursalimov

 

2 Answers
0

I'm no mechanic.

 

I think there are probably 2 causes.

 

The first being that either your fuel pump is going out or your fuel filter is going out. If it is bad enough it could be causing or playing a part of all the issues you are having; to my knowledge. If I understand correctly your fuel filter/pump in under the hood not in the tank. I think it is worth checking out.

You can go to autozone and rent for free a fuel pressure test kit. It will come with all adaptors you need to test your car. Then you just find a video on youtube or somewhere that shows you where the testing port is on your fuel injector rail. Also I just found this video that shows how to replace the fuel filter on your car.

 

Second possible issue here is that your coolant system's thermostat may be stuck open. The reason I suspect the thermostat is that in my 06 ford ranger I was having poor idling and I was throwing lean codes. I decided to buy a scanner after consulting a video from scotty that I will link below. Using the scanner I noticed from the live data feed that my thermostat was stuck open causing the engine to always run cold and thus use more fuel resulting in a lean code. If you are extra nice to the autozone people maybe they will show you your vehicle's live data feed.

 

Here is the link to the scan tool video. I bought the one he recommends here and it had absolutely paid for itself. I keep in my glove box at all times. 

 

 

Keep up the good work. All the work you have already put in shows that you are a dedicated car owner, you seem to have taught yourself more than 90% of people and that you really care about keeping up with your car.

This post was modified 3 years ago 3 times by Middy285

Thanks, Middy285

I was afraid it is a fuel pump. I will try to get live data

Best
Aibek

If it is the fuel pump don't replace the entire fuel pump assembly. Just replace the motor inside the assembly. I had to do that for my truck. It was $40 for the motor itself (which was the only issue in the fuel pump assembly) instead of $350 for a brand new fuel pump assembly.

Also your fuel pump is under the hood it seems which is a lot easier than if it is inside the tank.

Hi Middy285,

I got the scan tool. What live data should I look for to check the thermostat?

Thanks

0
Topic starter

So today I scanned my comp with the BlueDrive scan tool

As I expected the same codes came out P2187 and P2189. But when I scanned the second time I got an additional code, P0151 o2 sensor circuit low input (Bank2/Sensor 1). I also obtained freeze frame data, but I am not sure how to interpret it. Short and Long term fuel trim for both Bank1 and Bank2 was above 20% (23 and 24) at idle. Mode 6 report mostly was normal except following being not complete (with an exclamation mark)

Oxygen Sensor Monitor Bank 1 - Sensor 2 Lean to rich sensor switch time (calculated)

Oxygen Sensor Monitor Bank 2 - Sensor 2 Lean to rich sensor switch time (calculated)

Catalyst Monitor Bank 1

Catalyst Monitor Bank 2

 

Also, problem with bad idling didn't go away. The car has more power and doesn't hesitate as before but still revs up and down at traffic light.

I never had P0151 code before. Did I mess up something while I changed the spark plugs?

Do I need to change o2 sensor?

 

Please help 🙁

 

Best wishes

Aibek

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