Scotty, I have a 2012 Chrysler Town and Country, 3.6L V6, automatic, 167,000 miles, push button start, check engine light is not on. It starts fine when the engine is cold but sometimes when it's been off for just a short time and the engine is still warm it will not start the first couple tries. If it doesn't start and we just wait a minute or two with the ignition off, it will start. This was an occasional problem for a while (once a month or so) but now it happens almost daily. Yesterday I cleaned the MAF and throttle body using the specific sprays as in one of your videos and the first start was rough but once it was running for a few minutes I turned it off and on multiple time with no issue. I then drove it for 25 minutes or so up to highway speeds and it seemed to run better. I parked it and tried to restart and same issue. First time didn't start, waited about 30 seconds and then it started. It runs well and has plenty of power and doesn't die when running. Any advice or direction to a specific video is appreciated, I tried searching.
Spark plugs, coolant and thermostat were all changed around 150,000. Alternator around 155,000. Vapor canister purge valve/solenoid, fuel cap, and fuel vapor leak detection pump replaced around 160,000 (based on codes at that time).
Thanks!
Seth
All day today we did not have an issue and we drove it quite a bit. So maybe cleaning the MAF and throttle body did fix it and that 1 time afterwards was a fluke. I even started it multiple times once we got somewhere to test it.
Drive it for a week & see if it reoccurs. Post back the results.
The problem came back and slowly got worse. Now over 170,000 miles. The van wouldn't start on the first try at least once a day, once it was running it would drive fine. I found some info online and I believe my issue is a fuel pump relay and apparently Chrysler issued a recall for some vehicles related to this, but not for the T&C. This is not a new issue as there are people who make and sell a bypass kit. I purchased one of these kits and installed it. People recommend these as a temporary solution but apparently the permanent solution is an expensive part as the relay is part of a major electronics part (maybe the fuse box?). The bypass is a jumper wire with fuses that jumps the keyed power from an accessory plug to the fuel pump circuit. I've been running the bypass for over a month and zero issues. I'm not sure how long I should continue this "temporary fix".
Yes see how it goes pray the map sensor cleaning fixed it because it could make it run too rich or too lean it was dirty pray it's not the fuel injectors or the fuel pump going out
The symptoms you first described sound as if the injectors are not functioning properly and allowing fuel to drip into the engine after shutoff and creating an overly rich condition that clears up after waiting a bit. I'd run a few cans of injector cleaner through it to see if it helps.
New Bosch injectors are about $50 each at Parts Geek.
Well, it lasted several weeks and is acting up again. sometimes it will start and then die immediately. It doesn't seem to matter if the engine is warm or cold. If it dies and I try to start again immediately it cranks and cranks. If it dies and I open and close the driver door it seems to start up fine and drive fine. The radio and backup camera are now acting up occasionally as well. The engine doesn't always die when the radio problem occurs. Sometimes the radio doesn't start up and is off and the volume is all the way down. Now I'm wondering if maybe I have a weak ground or something else electrical.