Hey Scotty,
I purchased a 2017 (v4 CVT) Honda Accord in Georgia through a Honda dealership. I also purchased the extended warranty that "supposedly" covers everything electrical and mechanical for 48k miles/ 4yrs. The following only happens when she's parked and there's a hard rain or freeze. She'll crank but won't start. She'll start and cut off. The hazard lights come on and off by themselves. The exterior lights won't work but the interior lights will. I have video documentation and witnesses of these events that have occurred. The dealer service supervisor says they can't troubleshoot or duplicate the problem due to there being no code to read. If the CPU/ECU is electrical and theirs an electrical problem..., that leads me to believe the ECU could be faulty. Total Warranty Services says the dealer needs to give them a diagnosis of the problem. I've had the vehicle towed to the dealership once because of this. What are my options "Old & Wise Guru"?
I have a 2006 Accord made in Japan and never had issues like this. They don't make them like they used to.
I agree with @Doc and his above comment. The dealership service center is not the best option for figuring out what is wrong with the car because they want to do anything possible to avoid repairing under warranty (and in this case extra warranty is even worse than the factory warranty usually). Have an independent mechanic diagnose it then have dealership fix it.
You should have read the "warranty" before the purchase. They are usually worthless. Find an independent mechanic who can scan the car for codes, or get it done at a local auto parts store for free. Go back to the "stealer" and demand that it be repaired. While you are waiting, you should read and understand every word of your "warranty" most of which are exclusions to what the dealer will fix, which is most everything.
By the way, how much did this "extended warranty" cost you?
I paid too much for the warranty. It's enough to make me go to court. The warranty will cover the damages/ problems but they have to be reported by the repair. The dealership said they can't diagnose electrical without a code because they don't know where to begin troubleshooting.
The thing about Honda warranties is that they have the worst fine-print in the industry.
I remember not long ago Honda rejecting an owner who had all 4 fuel injectors go bad although he was still covered under powertrain warranty. If injectors aren't part of your powertrain, what is?
the expensive part of electronics repair is the diagnosis, usually not the parts - so the warranty as you described it is probably useless, although with them it's useless a lot of the time anyway.
I have a 2006 Accord made in Japan and never had issues like this. They don't make them like they used to.
Many people will fight to defend Honda - but no matter what they say the new Accord is junk, There are plenty of electrical issues on these (not to mention how terrible the powertrain is).
The complaints on NHTSA speak for themselves, 274 and 647 on the 2017 and 2018 models respectively (Some try to argue that "there's a lot of complaints because there's a lot of cars", well even the crappy Nissan Rouge outsold the Accord by ±50% and has less official complaints)
If you can't find the source of these electrical gremlins, I'd consider dumping it to a place like CarMax while prices are high. I recently saw a video of an extremely similar thing happening on a Wrangler (can link it if needed) and the Chrysler dealer failed to find the cause in over 6 months - electrical gremlins are very hard to find and repair, so you really don't want to hold on to a car with them.
The following only happens when she's parked and there's a hard rain or freeze. She'll crank but won't start. She'll start and cut off.
Do you mean V6 (there's no such thing as a V4), in that case this might be applicable:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10128893-9999.pdf
Check if the battery terminal is tight, I'd check if the service bulletin for the V6 can be performed on your car, and also just a simple battery and alternator test would be good.
If you have a good scan tool, try seeing if the network is alive when you can't start the car.
But I'd assume something is shorting out somewhere and with how complex these are... it's going to be an absolute nightmare to find what's going on.
My other recommendations are to go to an electrician to see what's wrong with the thing - if the dealer can't find what's wrong, or dumping it.
