I have a 1968 Delmont 88 that I just recently had to replace the starter.
Once replaced, it fired right up. Now, after a few weeks I went out to start it up, and it just turns over.
I've replaced the ignition coil and capacitor, and still when I have someone try to fire it up, I see there's no spark from the wires to the coil.
Any Idea what I should look a next?
Did the coil test bad? They rarely fail even after decades. Is the coil getting +12V with the ignition switch on? What about the ignition points, is gap set correctly, are the contacts OK, and are they opening and closing when you crank the engine? Are you getting spark directly out of the coil? Is the wiring going into the distributor OK?
@chucktobias I initially thought it might be the points. I had once had to use a fine grade sand paper to rub the contacts and it fired up. So I bought a brand new set of points and put them in. When I bought them, they set the gap should be set at .016. I didn't use the feeler gauge to set them, I just put them in to see if it would turn over...so that may be my problem too then.
I bought a brand new set of points and put them in.
Did you install Uniset points? Those are the easiest to deal with since the condenser is built in. Unfortunately most of the replacement point sets out there these days are garbage. It's a niche product since ignition points have not been installed in new cars for decades.
In any event you need to do some basic electrical troubleshooting to see what's going on. The coil should have voltage on its positive terminal when the ignition is on. In most cases with this type of ignition full voltage is applied to the coil while cranking and a ballast resistor or resistance wire is switched in when the engine is running, so the ignition is running on reduced voltage.
The points are connected to the negative side of the coil and complete a ground when closed. When the points open the circuit is broken, causing collapse of the magnetic field in the primary side of the coil, controlled by the condenser. This triggers the high voltage side of the coil to provide spark that is fed into the distributor cap to be sent to the correct cylinder by the rotor.
When I bought them, they set the gap should be set at .016.
I have Chilton manual covering that car and .016 is listed as the correct point gap. Spark plug gap is 0.30. It's always best to check the point setting with a dwell meter (should be 30 degrees), however there is also a technique with those point sets to set them by ear using an allen wrench. Still the gap would have to be way off to prevent the car from starting. In the old days if points slipped out of adjustment while driving we'd just use a matchbook cover to set them close enough to get the engine running.
When installing points be sure to put a little lube on the distributor cam to prevent excess wear on the point set rubbing block. That's especially important today since most of the points out there use a cheap, soft plastic for the rubbing block. (Points used to come with a little capsule of suitable lube, these days I just use a small dab of petroleum jelly.) Don't forget that when you change and adjust points that also affects the ignition timing and that needs to be set as well.
If you don't have a shop manual for that car you should definitely get one!
@chucktobias I bought the points from NAPA. It didn't come with the condenser and I used the one that was on the old set, and they said they rarely go bad. This was my first time dealing with it, so I just went with it.
I have an old Chilton book in storage that my grandpa left me...guess I need to go pull it out.
I really want to get this thing fired up. So I'll try working on it again today to see what I come up with.