My 2009 Hyundai Elantra automatic has given 6 months of not start no spark. I replaced can and crankshaft sensors new plugs wires and coil pack. New fuel pump. Cleaned all the fuel injectors and I cannot get spark or the Fuel pump to engage at the turn of the key. I'm at my end of sanity. What do ido
Is your ignition switch working properly? Are fuses and relays OK? Are wiring and connectors in good condition?
Also, check out this factory TSB if you have the 2.0L engine -
I cannot get spark or the Fuel pump to engage at the turn of the key
Did you scan for codes and/or verify your immobiliser isn’t acting up?
I thought I did not have an immobilizer. Scan don't give codes just bunch ofevap and all cylinders misfiring
You never mentioned about this before. Can you please list ALL codes which pop up?
Also pretty sure your vehicle has a factory fitted immobiliser. https://www.hyundai-forums.com/threads/09-elantra-touring-immobilizer-problem.661403/
Let me get the codes
All Four cylinders misfire
Fuel system monitor bank- 1
Exhaust gas sensor heater
Monitor bank- one sensors 1&2
Purge flow monitor
EVAP monitor.020. .040. .090
Catalyst monitor bank- one
Exhaust gas sensor monitor bank sensors 1&2
I would recommend you take the sound advice from @chucktobias and visit a professional mechanic in your area to diagnose correctly, what’s going on first. Once you have the correct diagnosis, you can then take a call.
Obd monitor says
Exhaust gas sensor motor bank sensors 1 and 2
Catalyst motor bank 1
EVAP monitor cap off
EVAP monitor(.020, .040 .090)
Purge flow monitor
Exhaust gas sensor heater
Monitor bank- sensor 1 and 2
Fuel system monitor bank- 1
And misfire on all four cylinders
An easy thing to check that may help narrow it down a bit: assuming the scan tool you have access to can display live data, do you see engine RPM while cranking? If not, then the computer is not getting the basic information it needs to turn on the fuel and ignition systems.
Obd monitor says
Exhaust gas sensor motor bank sensors 1 and 2
Catalyst motor bank 1
EVAP monitor cap off
EVAP monitor(.020, .040 .090)
Purge flow monitor
Exhaust gas sensor heater
Monitor bank- sensor 1 and 2
Fuel system monitor bank- 1
And misfire on all four cylinders
You'll get "misfire" on all cylinders if there is no ignition or fuel. Although you have other problems they should not prevent the engine from starting. Check live data to see if you're getting RPM indication while cranking.
Rpm is moving I'll check live datanow
It says rpm- 0
Computer forgetting information would mean what
Computer not getting information would mean what
If you're not getting an RPM indication the computer doesn't "know" the engine is cranking. The computer needs that information to turn on fuel and spark. When you replaced those sensors did you use OEM parts or aftermarket knockoffs?
That's what was afraid of. I want to thank you for trying to help me. You actually did. I verified I'm going to need to get it to a dealership. Seriously thank you guys
I think the car does need a pro with pro-level equipment to look at it. That's just the way it is with computerized cars when the problem is not a simple relay, sensor, or electrical issue. The equipment required for non-trivial diagnosis very expensive and not something the shade-tree mechanic is going to have access to.
However, you would probably be better served by finding a good independent mechanic that has the appropriate equipment. A dealer is 99.9% certain to rip you off. Same goes for chains like Firestone, Pep Boys, Midas, etc.
One more simple item to check that I don't think we covered - what is your cranking voltage? If it's too low the computer won't work. I don't know what the spec is for that particular car but typically about 9-10 volts is needed.
It definitely needs a pro. After changing out the crank and cam shaft sensor, plugs, wires, coil pack distributor, fuel pump, ignition cylinder you would think it would have started. Throwing up my hands and towing to local mech. Not a DEaler!
All are working fine I believe. New ignition cylinder and ikeep inspecting. The fuses and relays but not seeing any popped ones
You need to trace out and test the relevant circuits to see where the fault lies. A bidirectional scan tool that can check operation of the systems involved would be helpful.
Bidirectional scan tool? I'm not a real strong motor head although I am wishing I was now but anyways what is a bidirectional scan tool and can a multimeter do anything that the bidirectional tool can? I will look thoroughly at the wiring but whY is there no spark at the coil distributor pack
Relevant circuits.
Camsensor wiring
Crank sensor wiring
Battery to starter wiring
Ignition wiring
Any others needing inspection before I start. I apologize for the idiot questions but I am completely lost. Cannot find any wiring diagrams for this vehicle which is leaving me to guess and so far I am 0 for100
A bidirectional scan tool can operate and test the various computer-controlled systems in the car. You can frequently see Scotty using such scanners in many of his videos. (For example if you have an antitheft immobilizer, as @itwt suggested, you could test that to see if it's locking down the car.)
In no way can a multimeter do the work of a scan tool which can cost thousands of dollars. The meter is something completely different. It can be used to manually trace out and check circuits and grounds. A less expensive scan tool can be used to check for stored codes and that step should be taken if not already done.
There is no way to tell why you are not getting spark without diagnosing the circuitry and computer controls involved. The parts cannon approach obviously did not work. (It usually doesn't.) It sounds like you probably need a good mechanic to check things out if it's not something obvious like a bad ground or damaged wiring.
You might want to subscribe to Alldata DIY which will have diagnostic information for your car. A one-month subscription costs about $20.
https://www.alldata.com/diy-us/en
Wiring and connectors I can't say if they are in perfect condition but I did inspect and taped where there may have been some exposed wiring from back probing
ok...where would the immobilizer be if I have one and why is my fuel pump not getting signal at crank to prime. I have tried three Relays and no blown fuses. I bypass the relay and the pump comes on but I put in anew relay and nothing happens. Is this all a sum of faulty ground or dare I say it....
It's all computer controlled and to really diagnose it properly takes professional-grade equipment. There's no getting around that if the simple stuff doesn't fix the problem. That's just the way it is with modern cars, even economy models.
Another thing to look at: Does that car have electronic"smart" keys? If so the key reader may have died or the transponder in your key may be bad.
What is this pin number and code and where do you put it in. I don't have a keypad on this car. I don't know if it has a programmed key or not. I bought it used and the keys had a fob with it but not attached phyysically
I don't know what you mean by "pin number" or "code" in this context. I'm just saying that if you have an electronic key (most 2009 vehicles would) that's another possible failure point and something else that would be tested with a bidirectional scan tool. It's even possible it's an ECU problem. There's no way to diagnose these complex systems using a multimeter and a basic, generic OBD2 scan tool.
Well I guess I am going to have to bite the bullet and have it towed to a dealership....ugh...not what I wanted. I want to than all yu guys for your help and dealing with my ignorance. Y'all actually did help I just can not do the tests with what I have. Again thank you for your time.
That's what was afraid of. I want to thank you for trying to help me. You actually did. I verified I'm going to need to get it to a dealership. Seriously thank you guys