Hi!
I have a 07 Ford Crown Victoria with 87k miles. Last November, I brought that car to a mechanical shop for various repairs. I asked him to check the AC system. Once I got the car back, he said that the AC was working fine by then. He charged me 120 for refilling it. When I drove it back home, I didn't hear the click when I turned the AC on. I thought that because of the cold weather, it wouldn't turn on.
Lately, I brought it back to a body shop for respraying the bumper and I asked them to recharge the AC. Obviously it wasn't working and now it's cold. They said that there is a leak in the system and it would make no sense to refill it and charge me for it. They advised me to get it checked at another mechanical shop.
What should I do now?
I was thinking about inserting an AC leaking stop into it and refill it by myself. Any thoughts about it?
Thanks
They advised me to get it checked at another mechanical shop.
What should I do now?
Get it checked at another mechanical shop. (Preferably an AC specialist.)
I was thinking about inserting an AC leaking stop into it and refill it by myself. Any thoughts about it?
If you want to take a chance on destroying your air conditioning system, give it a shot. The "sealer" can clog up the whole works. (Happened to a friend of mine. Just about every part in the AC system had to be replaced.) If you want it to actually work take it to a good AC shop and have the leak repaired properly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IBFLMYZEzI
I have added refrigerant and the gauge showed 45psi, the engine was running. It still didn't blew cold and I couldn't hear the compressor engaging.
I have added refrigerant and the gauge showed 45psi, the engine was running. It still didn't blew cold and I couldn't hear the compressor engaging.
That's meaningless without knowing what the high side is doing. You need a full manifold gauge set for AC diagnosis. Also you don't just blindly "add refrigerant". The only way to know you have the proper load is to evacuate and recharge the system. If you try to add a little a time it's very important to know what the high side is doing. Those so-called "recharge cans" are toxic and you can ruin your AC system with them.
I should hear the chunk of the compressor but I don't hear any.
You would be able to see visually whether the compressor clutch engages. If it doesn't since you have pressure in the AC system you have an electrical problem or a computer problem. Could be as simple as bad low pressure cutoff sensor or as bad as a faulty computer module.
Thanks for your help. If I turn the ignition and AC on, would a scan tool tell me about the issue?
You would need a professional-grade bidirectional scan tool to test the computer-controlled AC components.
Before digging that deeply you might want to test the AC compressor relay, AC system relay, fuses, and low-pressure cutoff switch to see if it's a simple electrical fault.
I checked all these things. Fuses and relays are OK but the compressor refuses to start. I removed the relay and jump wired it and the clutch engages and I get cold air.
Are you sure it has low-pressure cutoff switch? Anyway, you talked about the computer but it is manual AC, not automatic.
Any AC system will have a low pressure cutoff to protect the compressor in the event that too much refrigerant leaks out to carry the oil. Also, on a modern car even with manual AC the compressor is controlled by the computer. That's the case even on a 1986 vehicle I have.
I get it. Where is it located? The workshop manual only says in the front right but I can't find it.
I'm not familiar with your vehicle so can't say. On most cars it's on or near the receiver/drier.
I just have found this on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGRaXxfxeRg
I will check that as well.
I've checked the low refrigerant switch, almost 0 V and no Amps. But after re plugging it, the clutch doesn't engage anymore even if I I jump wire the relay inside the fuse box.
Nobody has an idea???
Are the low refrigerant switch contacts open or closed?
Closed
Then you have an electrical or electronic fault that needs to be diagnosed. Or, you could proceed with your plan to bypass all that stuff with a new circuit and manual switch to operate the compressor.
I will do that. Thank you very much!
Just a few days ago, the blend door actuator stopped creaking. I believe that it needs to be replaced. What do you think about it?
Depends on whether it's working or not.
I will turn it manually to AC and see what happens.
I did it. Obviously the computer is also dead. To replace those things, the whole needs to be removed! So I've put a manual switch and works perfectly!
Sounds good, thanks for letting us know!
I will check it then and I will also try to power the AC compressor straight to see it. I don't feel like replacing the computer. I saw on Scotty's videos that sometimes he recommends to just pull a wire and a switch.
Since it appears from rockauto.com photos that compressor does not have a computer-operated control valve that may work OK.
However, you need to be danged sure that there is sufficient refrigerant in the system to carry lubricating oil for the compressor. If you have or develop a leak and the compressor seizes up due to lack of lubrication you'll have a real mess on your hands - nearly every part of the AC system would need to be replaced due to the resulting contamination.
In addition to fusing your new circuit it would be wise to include the low-pressure cutoff sensor to prevent this from happening. You'd have to use a relay since that sensor would not be able to handle the full current drawn by the compressor clutch. (Looking online it appears your compressor fuse is 15 amps.)
I've checked the low refrigerant switch, almost 0 V and no Amps. But after re plugging it, the clutch doesn't engage anymore even if I I jump wire the relay inside the fuse box.
Those are usually a simple pressure-activated normally-open switch. (With no or low pressure the switch is open, disabling the compressor. The switch contacts close when there is sufficient pressure in the system permitting the compressor clutch to engage.) At least that's the way the ones I've worked on operate. You'd want to confirm that for your specific vehicle with a wiring diagram.
I will check it then and I will also try to power the AC compressor straight to see it. I don't feel like replacing the computer. I saw on Scotty's videos that sometimes he recommends to just pull a wire and a switch.