Where is this mechanic from, OZ?  Did they scan it for codes or did he just wet his fingers, grab a coil pack and tell you to turn it over?

If the spark is dropping out then the 1st place to test is the wiring to the ignition coils.

Your Fusion uses 3 wire Coil On Plug (COP) ignition coils.

They're  just as easy to test as 2 wire COP coils but you need slightly better equipment.

The setup looks like this:

So a 2 wire COP coil has 1 wire with Power (Key On) and the computer controls when the coil fires by switching the Ground wire On/Off (Switching Signal). You can test those with a cheap test light.

On your 3 wire COP coil you have

1 wire that's always Ground

1 wire that's always Power (Key On)

1 wire providing a Triggering Signal (during cranking and running).

You can test for power and ground using a test light but you can't test the Triggering Signal with a test light.

You need a scope or a multimeter capable of reading Hertz frequency. (cheap enough around $50)

So during a "no spark event" your guy needs to check these 3 parts of the circuit.

All 4 coils share the same power source and fuse.So if you're missing power that should be easy to run down

All 4 coils share the same ground source so if you're missing ground that should be easy to run down.

If you aren't getting the Triggering Signal to any of the coils then the most likely reason (not the only reason) on most cars is the Crankshaft Position Sensor, its connector, or its wiring or on some cars the Crankshaft Position Sensor or the Camshaft Position Sensor.

These sensors don't always throw a code when they're failing so if you have a mechanic who doesn't test wiring and relies too heavily on trouble codes he could get stumped 

Check the FAQ