2008 Ford escape 2.3L not hybrid
Fuse 27 keeps blowing, one fuse didn't blow and the VT wire started to smoke, I know I have to replace it not an issue but doesn't a fuse blow when the voltage is shorted to ground before the load?
Here are my other readings
The low pressure switch reads 0.0ohms when connected to the low side line and OL when disconnected which means to me the switch is good tested the cycling switch and this is what I got
6.9k ohms on green wire to battery ground
1.4 ohms gray wire to battery ground
1.4 ohms black wire to ground
Purple wire to ground OL
The vehicle has entire new ac components not including the EVAP temp sensor or evaporator, everything else has been replaced due to leaks and bearing going out on ac compressor, the ac did work great after all the other items were replaced, then the PCM was acting up preventing the transmission from shifting correctly, random misfires intermittent no starts, got a remaned PCM from another site I can supply the information later if needed, Ford no longer offers a new or rebuilt PCM for it they discontinued it about 2 years ago from what I have been told, the new replacement PCM came in got both keys programmed to the vehicle no issues for about 8 month then out of the blue the fuse 27 would blow, double checked refrigerant levels all good,
I also graduated from UTI went to Arizona campus did auto, Diesel, industrial, Ford fact, then went to rancho Cucamonga for Mercedes Benz elite start program passed all the classes, been working on vehicle's through dealership's for about 17 years.
This is my wife's Ford she loves it and I am stumped any help would be nice I can even pay for the information so long as it fixes the issue, also her Ford is build on 03/2007 it has about 241k miles original engine and transmission.
If you have the wiring diagram it would help if you posted it.
Here's what I came up with.
I put a Red circle around the Violet wire which I think you're referring to.
So the Low Charge Protection switch itself can't short to Ground. It's either Closed or it's Open.
But if the Duel Pressure Switch is faulty it can internally create a short to Ground. Or an external short to Ground if the wiring connector is faulty.
One more thing, and I admit I really had to contort my thinking on this, so it's a long shot but with your credentials it will only take you a minute to pull out the A/C Clutch diode and test it.
I understand that if the diode were faulty it should blow the F13 Compressor Clutch fuse before it could send a voltage spike back through the circuit, through the (closed) Load Side of the PCM Power Relay and onto Fuse 27, but like I said, it will only take you a minute to grab your multimeter and check that diode to put that possibility to rest
I swapped the diod with the one next to it and vehicle still operates great and fuse still blows, at one point the fuse didn't blow and smoke was starting to come out of the purple wire, I removed the fuse fast, I know I have to replace the wire and I agree the low pressure switch can't be the issue but I tried a new cycling pressure switch and fuse would blow 2 more times, at this point I am taking the entire harness apart from the cycling switch and low pressure switch to the fuse box to make sure no wires are running against each other. What's been more confusing about this is that the VT wire melted and not the source wire, the ac compressor is only about 2 years old
Does the fuse blow if you unplug the Duel Pressure Switch wiring connector?
No, doesn't blow if I unplug the low pressure switch or ac cycling switch
Then would you agree that the short to ground is in the wiring harness section which I have circled in the diagram which includes wiring connectors C1062, C134, and C175B?
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So far I have opened the wiring harness from the cycling switch to the fuse box no issues with wires yet
No change no issues with wiring from the cycling switch to fuse box, pressure switch to fuse box, but apparently the fuse box is falling apart the plastic is just starting to crumble, no I need to find a new fuse box and install two pig tails, the pig tail and fuse box is no issue but her vehicle is the issue. Nothing I get for her vehicle fits correctly, not brakes, ac compressor, that one took 6 trips to find one that fit all over the fact that her vehicle was made in 2007 of March and was sold as a 2008
Replaced the burned wire, replaced the cycling switch, fuse didn't blow for two days, now fuse blows again randomly.
VT wire started to smoke,
what's VT? sounds like the fuse rating was too high.
Fuse 27 keeps blowing
and what is this circuit?
vehicle has entire new ac components not including the EVAP temp sensor or evaporator
careful... "EVAP" has a totally different unrelated meaning in the car world
What's been more confusing about this is that the VT wire melted and not the source wire
I think you might actually have two issues.
One, the violet wire sounds like it's compromised in some way. It could be rotten inside, under the insulation, from moisture ingress, or the connector to the switch is bad (C1062-4). Look for corrosion on it or a loose grip. This is increasing its resistance, and causing it to heat up. That would explain why it starts to smoke.
As for the fuse blowing, there is a short to ground somewhere in the area Jack circled.
Replaced the burned wire, replaced the cycling switch... now fuse blows again randomly.
there is a short to ground somewhere in the area Jack circled.
short to ground is in the wiring harness section which I have circled in the diagram which includes wiring connectors C1062, C134, and C175B?
The same wire gets hot then the fuse will blow, more back story.
I replaced all the gaskets on the engine replaced all siliconed areas, head was sent to machine shop due to misfire, the misfire was a result of exhaust valve stem were to long, I miss read the timing marks and had the exhaust camshaft 180 out and it bent the valves, I replaced the valves and had the head fixed, within 3 months after engine was running great and ac working the fuse then decided to blow.