I got a 05 Buick century and the security light is flashing the car is a no crank no start but I can go under the hood and jump the starter but it just cranks. Also the key has a resistor in the key. Already tried 30 minute reset and put a resistor in.
Try this (I cut and pasted). Security systems are a pia due to the many different ways manufactures have implemented them re: reprogramming.
1. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
3. Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
4. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.
Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes (the vehicle is now ready to relearn the password XXXXX the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK).
Important: The vehicle learns the password XXXXX the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.
@hillbilly
I already tried that procedure. I can jump the starter but it just turns over but doesn’t start.
It sounds like something has tripped the anti-theft system.
By 30 minute reset, do you mean you unhooked the battery for 30 min?
Do you have a keyless entry fob? If so, push unlock on it to attempt to disarm the system.
Do you have a second ignition key? If so, try that.
Here is the reset procedure if it's Passkey III, which i think it is:
https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/passlock-iii-reset-procedure/
@derek03ls
I already tried the 30 minute procedure and I unhooked the battery for a day. I also tried the key fob and using the key to unlock the driver door and still nothing.
When this happened to my car it was chewed wires from rodents. Just a thought.
Try this, disconnect battery and douche the heck out of the ignition key hole with electrical contact cleaner (plastic safe one). let dry for a while and re connect battery and retry. Might have to reprogram after cleaning.
Logic, security system uses resistance value on key to determine go/no go. Bad/dirty contact in ignition that connects to key resistor gives varying reading.
Or might be a broken security component. Put a code reader on that reads can bus codes.
@hillbilly
I already tried pretty much all that. I hooked a blue driver obd2 to it an fit gave me some codes. Like change the ignition and a few other things but I watched on YouTube how to bypass vats system and they said put a resistor in on the ignition wire under the Dash but still noting.
I'll get some other ideas to you later this evening as I'll dig out some schematics and see what we can test/check next. Anything else you've done/tried? And what were all the code #'s (interested in can codes as well)? And if that vidy you watched is correct on the sec bypass method works, it should have told you that you would have to do the programming with that resistor.
Hey, you still got the resistor bypass in? Did it cause any change? Ie, did the security light behavior change or starter work with bypass? Gonna want to check some voltages under dash to verify what I believe the issue is. And I presume your ok with bypassing the whole security system? Or do you want to buy and replace defective part?
@hillbilly
Ok thank you. And the security codes the blue driver found was B2958 B1422 u1000 and u1016. And I put the correct ohms resistor in and still nothing.
@hillbilly
I got a vats gator bypass module coming in today or tomorrow. Its supposed to do away with the whole vats system but I’m not sure if it will work with the security light on.
He@hillbilly
This is what the gator bypass module looks like. This is a link . Should be in today or tomorrow. https://www.clksupplies.com/products/gator-vats-bypass-module
Ok, that should take care of it and that's what I was going to walk you through. The security light will go out when you get rid of security module.
Here's how it works and can be bypassed. The sec mod reads the resistor in the key and if good, activates a relay underdash that allows 12 volts to go to starter solenoid. This is one signal out of the sec mod. The sec mod also has another output that sends a 12 v signal to the pcm to allow power to the injectors. With these 2 signals present, the car will start/run (everything else being good of course). The sec mod is also where the signal/voltage comes from to light the dash sec light, so no worries there.
What we were going to do is use another signal wire from ignition (or aux switches if desired) to power the relay that allows the 12 volts to starter solenoid and power to injectors. In the time being while waiting for your bypass, I'd check voltage on injector fuse with key on, if no 12 volts, jumper 12 volts to it, then put 12 volts on starter solenoid to start it. The reason for this is to check and make sure it will run (and the procedure works).
I hope this makes sense to you, I think it will since you've already done a lot of homework on this. Pls keep us posted and gl.
Checked codes and says what we know, pcm and sec module ain't talking (2 codes) and one calling the sec module bad. And one that says your AC has a problem (compressor isasue). BTW, here's why I believe it's sec mod and not pcm, if it was pcm bad, the starter should still crank but no injector power so won't run (another reason I wanted you to check the injector voltage at the fuse). The sec mod is the only part that would cause both (assuming a single point failure).
@hillbilly
Update. I put the gator module in and still nothing. So I starting messing around so I pulled all the main fuses pcm ecm there was like 4 different ones. Than I disconnected the battery and rubbed the positive and negative together for a few minutes after that I put the fuses back in and hooked the battery back up and hit the key and it cranked but no start. So I started looking at fuel issue. The injector fuse was messed up I replaced that and it fired up without any issue. So that module did the trick
That is great news! Very happy for you and commend your persistence. Even with purchasing a few extra things you still likely came out much cheaper than having it done... and the knowledge/experience gained, priceless ; )