Hi Scotti
I have a 2019 Kia Sorento. Alright stop laughing.
On the last inspection my mechanic said it will need brakes pretty soon. Here is my question. You need to spread pads apart to allow clearance to remove the caliper. In the past on other cars I have simply pried the brake pads apart before removing the caliper pins and the displaced brake fluid backs up into the master cylinder. I learned the hard way to suck some fluid out of the reservoir so it does not overflow and make a mess. Recently I heard that's not a good idea. It can damage the ABS module. The recommendation is to allow the displaced brake fluid out via the bleeder screw while prying the pads apart. The Kia service manual says nothing in this regard. What do you think?
The other question is I have a can of DOT 4 fluid for my 2021 Sorento. Yes I admit I own two Kia's. Can you use DOT 4 in a car that has DOT 3? Can you put the fluid drained out via the bleeder screws back into the master cylinder reservoir?
Thanks
Clarification: They said I had less than 2mm left and the state limit is 1mm.
Using the bleeder screw when compressing the caliper would be the safe choice in the absence of other information. It should also be easier since you're not pushing brake fluid back through the brake system.
You can certainly use DOT4 fluid in place of DOT3. DOT4 has a higher boiling point. They are compatible and can be mixed but of course if you dilute DOT4 fluid you'll lose some of the high temperature capability.
https://mechanicbase.com/brakes/dot-3-vs-dot-4/
Do not use old brake fluid. Just pitch it and replace with new.
Great point, never re-use old brake fluid and in fact one should only use fluid from a factory-fresh, sealed container.
It can damage the ABS module.
says who?
it would seem to me that compressing the caliper piston would be the same as pressing the brake pedal.
I've been doing it this way my whole life without issue, and I'm pretty sure Scotty does too.
The article I read said said pushing old fluid back into the master cylinder and ABS module will drag rust and debris up with it. The ABS module has these very small orifices and valves that will clog as a result. It's easy enough to just break the breeders loose while compressing the caliper.
Another good idea is change the rubber boots and re-lube the guide pins. The parts cost pennies and it's no big deal with the caliper off it's mount anyway.
I've never seen rust and debris in brake fluid. Using the bleeders sounds more messy.
Haven't had broken rubber boots either.
I lube the pins when they need it.
Thanks for the help.
I am doing the brake pads this weekend. I will let you know how I make out. I did my Santa Fe brakes a couple of times so I don't see any issues. The 2011 Santa Fe and this 2019 Sorento use the same brake pad. Unfortunately the oil filter, air filter and cabin filters are different so when I traded the 2011 in I ended up throwing away my stock pile of spares. Then I got the 2021 Sorento. Once again in just three model years there is a different cabin, oil and air filter. And of coarse different oil.
Does Toyota and Honda radically change all the consumables every year like HMA?
I changed the brake pads and everything went smoothly with one exception. All 8 brake pads had at least 6 mm of pad left. I was being set up for next years inspection.
Is there a proper position for the brake squealers. They only fit on the pad in the inboard position but which side should they face. Toward or away from the forward rotation? Does it matter?
personally I would put it away from rotation in case it broke off
I put them on facing away from forward rotation. I figured that if they are dragged away from the brake pad they would just make noise. If they are dragged into the pad they would gouge the rotor. I put a micrometer and a dial indicator on these rotors and they were still true. An gouge would mandate there replacement regardless of their condition otherwise.
Here is another question. When I removed or should I say attempted wheel removal after removing the lug nuts the wheel was frozen on the hub. I took a chisel and hammered it between the wheel and the hub to break it loose. Is that the typical way you get these loose. I am worried that if I get a flat on some dark deserted highway with out a hammer and chisel I will be stuck having to hitch a ride with some farmer in a 54 International with no teeth who's family tree goes straight up (Not that I have anything against farmers). I also don't like hammering the hubs for fear of brinelling.