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No ignition no codes.

  

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Scott,

2004 Ford E350 5.4L gasoline superduty 197,000miles automatic trans

Here is my trouble

Before like last summer and intermittently when I'd give it the pedal it would occasionally hesitate cough sputter loose power occasionally die. Pull off the road and retry ignition sometimes it would fire right up sometimes took a little longer but it would restart then go for a few more days sometimes over a month before another episode. No codes on computer, fuel always present.

Now this may or may not be the trouble. It finally broke. Now crank and crank no signal to ignition coils. No codes. Fuel pressure is around 54psi. 

I'm not sure what I have not changed. Given the age of the truck I figured throwing parts on it was a good investment as I use this truck and needit in my hvac business. I'm weeks behind. 

Now I have 12 v to 1 side of my ignition coil all time, my pulse to fire is not present on the coils I've checked and have used b12 in place of fuel. No hit on anything. No codes on pcm. 

I've replaced most sensors and the pcm

It does not have anti-theft circuitry nor use a chip key.

What could make the pcm think everything is OK and not give a code or spark? 

I have a ford wiring manual but not the tech experiences to read it logically.

Can you or anyone else think of a reason for no spark, no codes?

I know what I like and you are the best explanation of why I don't trust a lot of mechanical problems or people. Your the best. If most mechanics spent time making sense of how things work in the real world trust would come automatically. 

Thumpy
Yes I got the 2nd pcm from a place in Florida and it was programmed with my vin

No it has no electronics on the key
No it has no anti theft lockouts

It has no fire to coils on the switch circuit
It has only 1 flash per turn on of the ignition switch
Don’t get another flash til turn key off then crank again

Sorry didn’t see these. Anyway see other responses below. Check your other fuse box for the breakers in question. They don’t have anything to do with ignition though. But fuses 2 and 8 do. Under driver side dash.

3 Answers
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Ok, we need to back up some. When you replaced the PCM where did you get it from? You can’t just take one from a junkyard or used off ebay and toss it in. They can look identical but have to be programmed to you VIN number which contains engine information, transmission information and other vehicle specific options etc... if you still have it I would put it back in. Have you tested all your fuses and relays? 

Usually when you have voltage at the coils but no pulse it’s usually crank sensor related. Either the sensor is bad, wiring to it, or PCM isn’t seeing it. 

Almost forgot. You don’t have to have a security system in a Ford but can still have thier PATS(passive anti theft system) if you have a transponder key then you have it and this can cause no pulse for coils as well if it’s having issues.

Still looking for reason of no fire to ignition coils.

The pcm has no codes. I'm thinking maybe because it has to run before it can check any codes.

I look at a wire diagram and find that either wire position 1 or 4 I forget which, Is supposed to be hot all time and is breaker protected. To me a breaker is different than a fuse. It could be reset or auto reset. Only find fuses though on the owners manual and on ford wire diagram book.im wondering if this could be the trouble

I don't have an electric key. Its just cut and not chiped.

Usually if it is the crank sensor on a 2004 you won’t get a code for it unless the engine is running. You didn’t answer me about the PCM. Are you running on your original or the replacement? Where did you get it from?

Unplug your crank sensor and clean the connector with brake cleaner get any grime dirt or grease of it and plug it back in. See what happens

Also you have two fuse locations. Under the hood, and under the dash. Have you checked both? Fuses #2 and #8 under the dash and the breakers you mentioned are there as well. 42,43 and 44

Ok will do that this weekend. I'm using the new pcm i got it from protech in Florida. 1000xs better than flagship, which won't answer the phone cause they have my phone number telling them its me.
Don't go to flagship. Money you save is wasted on no way to get relief if have trouble. At least the Protect sent me wire diagram for the pins and what the wires from the pcm were going to.

Flagship and Car Computer Exchange must be the same company. I tried to get an ECM replaced under warranty that customer paid 259 for 5 months earlier. They overnight a refurbished one and you ship your old one back on initial purchase. Their “2 year” warranty is you leave your car dead, ship them the defective one and they have up to 4 weeks to fix and return it. I said ok charge the customer another 259 and when you receive the defective one give her a refund. “Oh no now units sell for 800 we can’t do that” Then they stopped answering the phone completely.

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We have a topic in the FAQ about "no start", go down to cranks but no start and see if that helps.

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I have retried everything and checked everything over and over.

Original pcm plus 2 others set up with vin codes programmed into pcm (3rd one on the way) 

2 crank shaft possession sensors presently 5vac to pcm

2 cam shaft sensors presently .5vac average to pcm

1 knock sensor

1 head temp sensor

Checking power 12 volts to all coils ok

Checking 12 volts to trigger circut ok

Checking grounds to pcm ok

Checking power to fuel injectors ok

Seems the ground trigger circut that comes from pcm to coils is missing.

The wire diagram shows ground to each coil being sent from pcm to coils, currently i see no way to trick the pcm into sending a ground to the coils for fire.

 

 

Help HELP PLEASE HELP. 2 MONTHS PLUS NO PLAN NO ONE I CAN TRUST.

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