Hello Scotty,
I've been watching your videos for a long time (almost every single one of them) and I have learned and saved money and it is all because of you, so thank you.
So, I have a 2000 Mazda Protege ES 1.8L automatic that I bought in 2016 for $400 with 120k miles. In 6 years I've spend $1.5k in parts to make it run and feel better (brakes, suspension, alternator, starter, mounts, belts, sparkplugs, battery, tires, etc) and I did all the work thanks to you. 🙂Â
During the pandemic I lost my job and used the car to deliver for Amazon. In only 6 months I drove 20k miles and made $30k in 2020, the car behaved great. Now (2022) it has 170k miles and it overheated because of a broken radiator. I replaced it but noticed that my headgasket was starting to blow (boiling coolant in reservoir with no leaks anywhere else). I used the Bars headgasket sealer (the fancy one) and the leak stopped, that was about 6 months ago. Now it seems that it is starting to blow again.Â
I have a new job 2 miles away from home, and everything else is 20 to 30 min away tops so I am able to use the car normally and the coolant in the reservoir won't boil. Last week I did a 45 min highway drive and when I arrived the coolant was boiling and bubbles overflowing out of the reservoir. It only lost about 2 inches of actual coolant and it ONLY happens after long/hard drives. I want to keep the car because it has been reliable and prices right now are crazy.
My question is, would you recommend me doing the headgasket job (I'll be the one doing it) on my old engine OR replace the engine with an imported JDM one that I found for $650? Which I'll be also doing myself since the shop wanted $600 for "a guy" to swap it. By the way, the transmission is still shifting smooth (flushed the fluid when it had 130k miles).Â
I really appreciate your time and all the advice you can provide me.Â
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Best regards,Â
David M.Â
If you can get a low-miles JDM engine for $650 and do the installation work yourself I'd go that route. Your cylinder head could be cracked and/or warped by overheating and if coolant got into the oil there could be bearing damage.
Are you getting any kind of warranty from JDM? I would pull the head, get it rebuilt and install it using ARP head studs. At least you know what you have now compared to having no idea what you'd be getting from JDM. And it wouldn't cost $650 either.
Thanks Doc, that is my other argument. They only offered 30 days of warranty and no one can be really sure about the history of that Japanese engine.
30 days is nothing. I'd get it rebuilt, do the work myself and it'll be good for at least 100,000 miles.
I agree with you. I'll just do it. Thanks!
Thanks for your quick reply Chuck, I was thinking the same thing about the warped head, I would have to refinish it.
BTW, I have NO coolant in my oil, I forgot to mention that, so it is leaking exhaust gases to the coolant. Also, it runs good with no codes. It just vibrates a little and gas mileage dropped.Â
If you're sure the bottom end is OK you could pull the head, have it checked, and just replace the gasket if all checks out OK. Should be an easier and of course cheaper job certainly than replacing the engine. Of course then you still have an engine with 170,000 miles on it. Basically a gamble either way, but less skin in the game with the gasket replacement.
You are right, I'm going to replace the head gasket. It'll be easier and cheaper. I'll also check the head and block for warpage. Thank you!
Thank you, I will get them to check and to do the job.