Those computer controlled alternators are easy to troubleshoot.

You just need a cheap multimeter and a test light.

First just make sure the voltage output measured at the alternator is pretty much the same as what you're measuring on the battery terminals.

If it is, then just test the 2 wires on the alternator wiring connector.

The alternator charging rate is controlled by a pulse width Ground from the computer.

The faster the Ground cycle, the more the alternator charges. Full Ground equals maximum charging rate.

Let's talk more about those 2 wires on your alternator connector.

One wire is Battery Positive Voltage to the alternator Field.

The thing about that wire is that it needs the ASD relay to be closed (engine running) to complete the circuit. 

In this graphic it shows it being provided by the PCM. I think yours is directly provided by the ASD relay and the PCM just monitors the voltage but that's splitting hairs because it doesn't matter.

If you have a reliable wiring diagram you can see which wire is which.

If you don't have a wiring diagram don't worry about it, you can use the process of elimination. 

Hook the test light's alligator clip to the Negative battery post.

Steal a straight pin from your wife's sewing basket and "backpin" the B+ wire on the alternator connector. (if you don't know which wire that is, try one wire and then the other)

Engine running, touch the Probe of the test light to the Pin. If it doesn't light, backpin the other wire and try that one. (You can even unplug the alternator connector (engine running and do this test on the terminals of the connector if you're having trouble backpinning it).

You have to have Battery voltage on one of those wires.

If you don't, troubleshoot that wire.

Next you want to see if the PCM is providing a Ground pulse to control the charging rate of the alternator.

This graphic shows that part.

Here you'll switch the test light's alligator clip to the Battery Positive post to measure the Ground pulse being provided by the PCM.

You'll backpin the other wire on the alternator connector. (you have to do this test with the connector plugged into the alternator).

The light should either flicker on & off or it will stay lit (full charge commanded by the PCM).

If it isn't then you can get a reliable wiring diagram and check that Ground pulse directly at the PCM connector. If it's working there, you have a wiring break/short.

Here's the neat part. If you aren't getting that Ground pulse from the PCM, and while you have the field circuit control wire on the alternator backpinned, you can just use a jumper wire and jump a Ground from the Battery Negative post to that pin.

That will force the alternator into Full charging rate. 

If you do this you have to be careful. Have your multimeter connected to the battery positive and negative posts and make sure the charging rate doesn't go much over 15 volts or you can damage the battery. Either way, don't do it for more than 30 seconds.

But by doing this, you'll know your alternator is good. You'll know that your battery connections are good, that your battery cables and their connections are also good.

I looked up your Sebring's wiring diagram and I got this search result. I highlighted Red for Battery voltage and a dotted Green line for the Ground pulse provided by the PCM.

But if you have to do tests at the PCM pins, pay for a subscription to AllData DIY or Mitchell 1 DIY.

It could be a number of things - like you've gotten a bad alternator, the  fusible link is blown ,etc. The first step is to get a multimeter and see if the alternator is putting out 14+ volts with the engine running. How long does the engine run after the battery has been charged - minutes, hours or days? You could have something draining the battery while the engine is off - another thing you could check with a multimeter.