Hi. I have a Volkswagen EOS 2010 with 112000 miles, automatic TSI 2.0l engine. I've gotten a lot of stuff fixed, engine used to shut down on idle sometime, but now the problem is it does not want to start sometimes. Says ESP error, engine light turns on and when scanned gives me OBDII code: U0100 (engine control module - lost communication). I keep trying until it lets me turn the engine on, by turning the key off and on and the esp error goes away. As long the esp error doesn't appear I can turn the engine on. Car does not shut down when driving or idling but it has shut down when I turn engine on and suddenly gives esp error causing it to shut down immediately, but I turn it on again and no problem... though I'm scared...
I once took it to an "affordable" mechanic shop and they said the car was out of timing and the chain and everything needed to be replaced for $2300. So I took it else where...
Parts that I've gotten replaced are: battery, Spark plugs and coil pack, camshaft sensor (used to give engine code for cam and crank shaft sensor) and then PVC (only problem found when scanned by a mechanic, ended the shutting down when idling but ESP error appeared a week later).
I bought my cute but lemon car for $5500 from a private individual... Its my first car so don't judge me harshly. hehe... What could be causing the ESP error?
Hi, might be a long shot as its an old post, but did you ever sort this problem? As im having the same things happening!
I know you have a new battery but the 1st place to look is at battery voltage when you have a "No Start" and the ECU/PCM has a problem communicating with a module on the CAN Bus.
You never know. Maybe a parasitic drain drawing down your battery voltage.
Low voltages aren't tolerated by the TCM module.
The thing is that a lot of times the computer will disengage the traction control/ABS/ESP when any (even unrelated) code is thrown. So, you can't be sure that isn't happening.
But, the code says "Lost Communication with ECM/PCM ‘A.’” It is triggered once there is a loss of communication between your PCM and a particular control module.
The computer communicates with the various control modules over a CAN Bus.
There's (at least) 1 Low Speed CAN Bus for Body control stuff (doors, mirrors, etc) and a High Speed CAN Bus for the important stuff (Transmission, ABS/Traction/ESP, etc).
Since you have a No Start it's pretty certain the issue is with the High Speed CAN Bus not being able to communicate with a control module on its circuit for some reason.
Among the modules on the High Speed CAN Bus are the Engine controls, Transmission Control Module (TCM) and the Antilock Brake/Traction Control (ABS/ESP) Modules (and your ESP light is illuminated).
So, is it a bad wheel sensor/speed sensor/wire shorting to ground/open, a CAN Bus wire intermittently acting up, or an actual problem with one of the control modules?
You seem to be able to defeat the "NO Start" by repeatedly cycling the ignition switch to OFF and START and the CAN Bus wires are connected to the ignition.
You're (figuratively) "jiggling the wires" with your repeated cycling of the ignition and if you had a component that wasn't working but worked after jiggling the wires at the wiring harness connector, you'd certainly give that wiring harness connector a closer look.
So is it an issue with the ignition switch/wiring?
A place to start (after checking battery voltage) would be to try a scanner that can read transmission, TCM, ABS/ESP, and other module codes connected during a "NO Start" and seeing if you can narrow it down to which control module isn't communicating during the NO Start condition.
So you would check the modules during a "Start" condition and then see if the same modules which you could access during the start condition are accessible during the NO Start Condition.
It may be asking too much from a home mechanic's scanner. You may need a bidirectional scanner to really "drill down" to the culprit.
First check your car battery. If at startup (due to the starter pulling a lot of electricity) the battery voltage drops too low, the ECU (and other electronic modules) might malfunction, throw all sorts of codes (like the ESP code you mentioned), and refuse to start the car.
If it is not the battery, try disconnecting, spraying the contacts with some cleaner, and connecting the ECM/PCM/ESP module(s) connector(s).
It could be as simple as an unreliable contact on some of the pins as the connector(s) get(s) hot.
