I have a 2000 Honda accord but it has no codes and I can’t seem to figure it out I have replaced catalytic converter distributor spark plugs colorant temperature sensor and oxygen sensor and fuel pump
Did you use the OEM fuel pump? Loading the parts cannon and hoping it works just drains your money. Usually it's a fuel pump problem, when you don't have codes.
The spark plugs seem to be a bit too white and gray
I believe it was an aftermarket oem
The Cadillac converter was burn out there was a code for that same for oxygen sensor didn't which one so I figure it the one the exhaust. Thought it was the distributor because it was having a hard start after it shut off
Your catalytic converter should last the lifetime of your car. Something other than the catalytic converter is your problem. Oxygen sensors could be bad, you might have vacuum leaks... It's almost never the catalytic converter itself. It may be broken inside, but that's really about it. My catalytic converters on my 1999 Ranger are still the original ones after 291k miles.
I ment it hollowed out from the previous owner
I believe it was an aftermarket oem
OEM stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer. You can't have aftermarket and be OEM, unless it's made in China. Motorcraft fuel pumps are made by Ford Motor Company, for example. If you got a third party fuel pump, that's probably your problem.
Well it been doing since I had the car the first thing I did was the fuel pump
Took it to a shop showed me there nothing in it how do I find a vacuum leak
Explain more on the fuel trims I dont quite understand
have a 2000 Honda accord but it has no code
You just said you have no codes. So it's not likely due to a vacuum leak. A vacuum leak would trip a code. It has to be running either 15-25% higher or lower than the optimal 14.7:1 air to fuel ratio. I like I said, from your original post, if your fuel pump is not the factory original part, but brand new, this is most likely your culprit. Car computers of that era don't know what the fuel pressure is, when it's coming out of the pump. If the fuel pump is weak, or not functioning, the car will randomly die, without turning the check engine light on.
I know it working to some extent becuase I hear him when I turn the intigion even with the original it was much worse the whole car would shake
I ment it hollowed out from the previous owner
The catalytic converter? So it was broken?
Your fuel pump is likely the culprit for not starting. Rent a fuel pressure gauge from AutoZone. It should read around 60 PSI when the engine is running, at all times.
But sometimes it starts right back up or it won't for like a min but when driving I would just throw it in netrual and crank it and put it in drive
Get a basic scan tool, select live data, and look for fuel trims (LTFT and STFT). It should hover pretty close to 0%, if it's significantly above 0%, your engine is running lean and there are probably vacuum leaks.
Ok I have a obd 2 scanner with live data
Explain more on the fuel trims I dont quite understand
When you say aftermarket OEM, are you saying you bought it from a place like amazon or an auto parts store, but it was the original equipment manufacturer (OEM) part, just not from the dealership?
Yes I thought it hollowed because the mechanic cut it open and show me but he told me that wasn't messed with and the stuff had shot back through the exhaust
The DTCFRZF P1167 fuel sys1 OL FUELSYS2 N/a SHRTFT1 -1.6 LONGFT1 5.5 it telling me the o2 senser down stream but I replace that like two months ago
DTCFRZF P1167 fuel sys1 OL FUELSYS2 N/a SHRTFT1 -1.6 LONGFT1 5.5 it telling me the o2 senser down stream but I replace that like two months ago
DTCFRZF P1167 fuel sys1 OL FUELSYS2 N/a SHRTFT1 -1.6 LONGFT1 5.5 it telling me the o2 senser down stream but I replace that like two months ago
DTC P1167 is not for the downstream sensor. Also, replacing parts is not what trouble codes are for. They're for diagnosing.
It not that senser I just replaced that something tripping it
On Hondas P1167 indicates "Air/Fuel Ratio Sensor 1 Heater System Malfunction"
A/F sensors are NOT O2 sensors.
Sensor #1 is the one BEFORE the cat.
It has nothing to do with the #2 downstream O2 sensor.
Ok cool I do have a replacement on the way plus I figure there was a gapping hole in the intake system from dried rot
I do have a replacement on the way
mkay well if the sensor isn't the problem, then replacing it won't fix anything. The fault said "heater system malfunction". The heater system consists of the entire circuit , including the sensor, the power source, the wiring, and the computer. Until I was sure the problem was the sensor, I wouldn't be buying any parts. I would start with a wiring schematic and making sure there is even power on the heater circuit. Or at least checking the fuses, the wiring and connectors for damage/wear.
start watching from 22:25
What fuses do I need to check
Sorry I don't know. I've never owned an Accord or any Honda .
But there's a good chance you can find schematics on the web if you search.
If all else fails check all of the under-hood ones . It shouldn't take that long.