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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Can you help me with my 2000 Camaro SS please? | 30Relevance | 5 years ago | Viniepooh44 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello Scottie, can you help? Would love to hear your opinion. Half a year ago I bought a 2000 Camaro SS m6. It have a 5.3 iron block with 383 wiesco stroker kit, PRC heads, cam, what I believe to be an ls2 or 3 intake and other supporting modes, which dynoed at 485hp. I drove from TN to MI About 500 miles if not more on it just fine. Then one day I was doing some work on it and drained coolant. When added it back up I messed up and didn’t add as much as I needed. Long story short I wasn’t on highway or anything, near the house when I caught it overheating. Temp went close to 230-240 and I had to make few stops to cool down to get it back home. After that and adding rest of a coolant I began having strange issues. First is that w coolant itself. It seamed to be a never ending adding of it ever since. This is what the first prob. Let’s say you added a coolant to a radiator neck and overflow have it at full cold, then you drive for 100 miles or so and then next morning rad needs another quart to get to where it was, however overflow now at full hot. However if drained back to full cold and added whats extra back to a radiator radiator mark does go up but not all way to where it was before the trip. Another thing I noticed that if those 100 miles were hard driven like these cars should be driven to enjoy then my oil level gets down to a pint. If I drive it gently just cruising no oil is used. Now as Disclaimer when I bought her and drove 500 miles it was a winter and I never was hard on her at all, so I can’t say if this oil thing is some I got her with or not. However coolant was checked before that trip and never needed to be added the next morning. And lastly one last weird thing: because of those issues I been watching both coolant and oil closely for two month checking them after every trip to kinda give myself a statistics. Having said that I prob checked oil 30 times in last 3 month and twice I had a very strange experience w it. On a dipstick right above oil level after about an inch or two away from it closer to the top I have found coolant. Almost like it drips on a dipstick but how? What do you think is happening? Now here are the things I’ve done and their results. I have done compression test twice to different days weeks appart, doing each cylinder 3 times each time, holding each for 4 or 5 strokes. Both times engine was almost cold since after warming it it takes quiet some time to take all plugs off. All cylinders pump almost identically 1 stroke 110ish 2-160ish 3-180s and stoping at around 195-200psi. None is behind others all literally almost identical. Spark plugs to my inexperienced eyes based on online information looked normal though I’ve replaced them anyways. Only one had oil on its thread however the element and tip part of it was identical to the rest of them. I did or should I say tried doing a leakage test. That went inconclusive because as I tried holding that tube above the radiator neck for some reason my test wouldn’t come out as peoples online and I kepped on loosing the liquid down the radiator instead of it staying there and changing or what not color. So that was inconclusive. All I can say is that while holding a tube over the rad as it drained into it it did changed in color from good blue to somewhat of deluded dirty and light blue, almost starting to change to loose that blue vibe. But then again, I never managed to finish the test as intended. I also replaced and tested radiator cap and Replaced overflow tank. I had oil out of car twice in a see through bucket for weeks looking for coolant presence and their separation but nothing at all was found. I was hoping one of them had a leak preventing a pressure build and further preventing a coolant to drain back to radiator. I’ve also pressurized rad by pumping 17 merc in it and watch over it. What I found was that if engine is cold and rest is done then it holds 17 for half hour untill I take it down, however once I ran a test after idling it for 30 min, and it went from 17 to 14 in about 15 min when I stoped the test. I know the law of Pascal but Does it seam normal? So my biggest question is what is going on w it? Could of head gasket been overheated and raptured at the part of it which does not loose compression but does allow coolant to escape? And what is up w inconsistent oil consumption? Could of heads developed a crack? Did I overheat and damage valve guides and seats? Lastly few days ago I stoped driving it because of a third what could appear to be unrelated but (I believe they do) event. You see ever since the overheat, I’ve noticed gradual fuel consumption increase and at idle the car would put out gas smell in garage but all still seamed normal as it is after all build and crammed stroker. However more time went by more fumes it pumped at warm up and recently when I started her up, at some point I could see half of a car let alone breath, even though idle seamed just as it was before. I have a small 50$ scan tool which shows min info, I plugged it in but couldn’t find anything unusual other then what it appeared to me it’s fuel trim and air to fuel ratio was jumping from 13-22 at idle. Vacuum reads 15-16 at idle instead of 20. Both O2s active. Maf changes it’s value gradually w throttle, same as Tps. Haven’t checked IAC. Lastly When I went to raise it, I saw a two coolant drops on bottom of water pump w a trace of them coming from around its pulley. At this point I know I have problems but I don’t exactly know what it is. I know it’s a lot to read but if you’re reading this then you took your time and I appreciate this. Please help with your advise. Thank you | |||||
| Coolant in car | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | Cars | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi, i was woundering about cars coolant and can i fill it myself? And is it that the coolant comes in green and redish color only? And is it so that if the car has that redish looking coolant color then u add more of that redish color coolant? Green and red color coolant could not be mixed together right? Only that same color coolant? | |||||
| Answer to: Coolant flush dark | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | reddevil1321 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| @knucle-draggerno that is not normal. your coolant should come out clean after 3-5 times drain and fill. scotty has a really good coolant flush video, where he only uses water and removes the thermostat and drives the vehicle for a day, next day, it comes out clean. if you have youre coolant really dirty, the only way is to keep cleaning it with water. here is the video. also use 50/50 coolant. i used full concentrated 1 time and my whole engine got corroded in 2 days, i had to get rid of that car unfortunately. and use only original for coolant, oem check with your dealer, dont add tap water, add coolant if you need to pour more. | |||||
| 2015 Mazda 3 Coolant Change | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | Shane1962 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2015 Mazda 3 manual transmission. I saw Scotty Kilmer say I should change my coolant every 7 years or 150,000 miles. I bought coolant says its made for Asian cars HOAT its pink in color. I drained the coolant in the radiator and refilled it with the 50:50 premixed Asian coolant but it is a different color than what was already in the radiator. Not sure if the old stuff was OAT or HOAT coolant. I know a drain does not remove all the old coolant. Will my car be alright? | |||||
| Poured wrong coolant into newly-purchased car | 28Relevance | 5 years ago | Shopping4aCar | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty et al., I followed you guys' advice by purchasing the 2017 Acura against the 2018 VW Passat last month. I just learned from reading my car service manual & from one of your videos that there is a specific coolant for Asian cars. When I inspected the fluids (oil & coolant), I found out that the coolant reservoir is below the minimum. I still had my old jug of coolant from my previous car. Not knowing that there is a specific coolant for Asian vehicles, I added the old coolant that's not only probably at least 10 years old but also not specific for my 2017 Acura ILX. My question is, should I drain & flush the coolant and replace it with the right coolant? Will the coolant still dissipate engine heat even if it is very old? Thanks in advance. My current mileage is 7,158 mi. When I purchased the car last month, it was at 6,528 mi. Rolly | |||||
| Answer to: Coolant in car | 28Relevance | 5 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi, i was woundering about cars coolant and can i fill it myself? Absolutely. It's very easy And is it that the coolant comes in green and redish color only? coolant comes in a whole rainbow of colors. It's just dye that's added for easy identification. And is it so that if the car has that redish looking coolant color then u add more of that redish color coolant? Exactly. Hopefully, what you have is the same as what your manufacturer recommends. (owner's manual) Green and red color coolant could not be mixed together right? Only that same color coolant? You should not mix coolant types. (silicate or IAT, OAT, and HOAT). The color should give you a pretty good hint. (why they made it the same color as rust is beyond me) | |||||
| 2009 W204 C-class Coolant | 28Relevance | 5 years ago | Penn King | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty, I hope all is well. I have an 09 Mercedes W204 C300 AWD that I received as a gift from a relative. It might need some coolant as the light did come on once but went away and hasn't returned since. It already had green coolant in it from when I received it (I think its that "all makes and models" coolant but I'm no sure), but I was told that Mercedes coolant is usually blue. In addition, I'm noticing what looks like some "dirt" in the coolant tank, but I think that might have come from the coolant cap (I'm hoping this is not signifying potential engine deterioration). I don't know how long the green coolant has been in the car but the car seems to have been running relatively fine on the green coolant, and I've driven it on a few long trips. I haven't found a green European car coolant yet (if such a thing even exists). What's your theory on this? Thanks | |||||
| Answer to: Honda Accord 2015 ex-L (dealership 74k miles) | 27Relevance | 5 years ago | OldRangerNut | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It's not recommended to mix different types of coolants. The following comes from your owners manual, page 505. NOTICEIf temperatures consistently below −22°F (−30°C) are expected, the coolant mixture should be changed to a higher concentration. Consult a dealer for more information.If Honda antifreeze/coolant is not available, you may use another major brand non-silicate coolant as a temporary replacement. Check that it is a high quality coolant recommended for aluminum engines.Continued use of any non-Honda coolant can result in corrosion, causing the cooling system to malfunction or fail. Have the cooling system flushed and refilled with Honda antifreeze/coolant as soon as possible.Do not add rust inhibitors or other additives to your vehicle's cooling system. They may not be compatible with the coolant or with the engine components. Pretty vague, isn't it. Here's a link for the Honda OEM coolant. | |||||
| Answer to: Subaru 2008 impreza automatic after a short drive my coolant is gone after a few hours my coolant is gone empty i have to put coolant to get from a to b what is the issue ? | 20Relevance | 2 years ago | Shanelabbe03 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Well if your leaking coolant figure out where it’s leaking coolant, but considering it’s a Subaru, it’s probably getting coolant pushed into the cylinders from either a cracked block or a bad head gasket(s) | |||||
| Answer to: Should I use waterless antifreeze | 18Relevance | 4 years ago | Andrew Alpha | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, Please advise us your opinion on evans Cooling. Best regards Alpha | |||||
| Answer to: Lotus Excel | 18Relevance | 4 years ago | scottykilmer | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I would not use evans myself but I would put anti-rust stuff on all those parts the body won't rust but the rest will | |||||
| Answer to: What should i choose as my first truck? 2020 Ford F150 XLT V8 5.0 or a Toyota Tundra. | 18Relevance | 5 years ago | ClemsonRangers | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| i think this is a fair deal, but has the 3V 5.4L engine that some folks dont care for | |||||
| 2021 Honda Ridgeline push button shifter opinions | 18Relevance | 5 years ago | snave1957 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Het Scotty, Going to buy a 2021 Ridgeline (I've had my '07 for 14 years and I love it). What do you think of the push button shifter? I'm a bit leery - say you have a dead battery and need to shift into neutral to push the vehicle - will it still shift? Thanks, and I wish I could find an honest mechanic like you near me! Gil evans Inman, SC | |||||
| Vehicle runs hot | 27Relevance | 2 years ago | ataylor1279 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, I would most certainly appreciate your professional opinion on a big issue I’m having with my truck. Back in March of this year my vehicle ran hot and discovered that it was something going on with my coolant and to take it in to it looked at. I was due for an oil change so I took it to the dealership. Told them what was going on so we did the oil change and coolant flush. Immediately after doing those services they noticed my oil level was not staying to where they filled it and said that when they drained my coolant it did have oil in it. So they said leave it here so we can get it looked at and figure out what’s going on. They decided that it was the oil cooler that needed to be replaced and they did. I pick up the vehicle and notice just a couple days later that something is going on with the coolant. I take it back and get told it’s fine and they just add more coolant. About a month goes by and still same issue, I take it back and get advised to leave it there as it would not be safe to drive with something still mixing with the coolant. Get the call from the dealership a couple days later saying i need a new engine. The new engine gets put in in June, I pick the car up June 28th and AGAIN have to take it back for the SAME THING…. After this visit of them keeping the car for about a week I get told it’s just “residual” going through the system and just drive it another 1,000 miles and come back to get the system flushed out. I knew that doesn’t sound right so we went back and forth through text messaging. They decided to do another flush and said my car will be ready after the weekend. I JUST picked my car up again this Tuesday July 16th and was told again to drive the car for over 1,000 miles and come back for another flush. As I get off work the next day, drive my vehicle 3-5 minutes from my job, car runs hot again and dash tells me coolant temperature too high. I IMMEDIATELY head right back to the dealership. I’m at my wits end with them not properly fixing whatever the issue is that is causing something to be mixing with my coolant. I also want to add I had to take my car into Midas to get my battery checked out because I had been having problems with my car starting and they were the ones who did my battery 10 months ago. While they’re looking into the battery issue my car runs hot. So I give them the run down of what’s been going on with the car for the last couple of months and the work that has been done. They check out the coolant and immediately they were in disbelief of how incompetent the dealership was being. The two mechanics at Midas believe it is transmission fluid mixing in with the coolant. So he put's my car up on the lift to check out the the transmission fluid and it was pretty much empty and what he did get out was nasty and dirty, dark brown. And I explained to him how the car had been driving funny and he said it’s because you don’t have any transmission fluid. They were totally flabbergasted. They said you take this car back to them first thing in the morning. And I did. They now have my car to figure this out again, SMH!! The mechanic at Midas said that is most likely the transmission oil cooler that needs to be replaced. At this point I just want them to correctly diagnose what the problem is and fix it. I’ve been having the same issue since March and they still have not fixed what the actual cause is. I’m sorry for the extra long story but I had to make sure I get everything I can in here so you can give your opinion on what I need to do and what is it that they are not properly doing. | |||||
| Answer to: Coolant in all 4 cylinders from cracked coolant hoses | 27Relevance | 2 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You seriously blew the head gasket if you have coolant in the combustion chambers. If there's enough coolant intrusion into the combustion chambers, the car won't start -water and ethylene glycol don't combust. You may have warped the heads. | |||||
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