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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: 2007 IS250 RWD Fluctuating revs | 15Relevance | 5 years ago | yaser | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Listen to @InThrustWeTrust and @BruceREE . | |||||
| Answer to: Confuse between accord(2021) and camry(2021) | 15Relevance | 5 years ago | Thumpy | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I would take the Camry over the turbocharged Honda. Turbocharged engines even though Honda builds really good ones, they just don’t have same lifespan. Those Camry’s come with 19” wheels and run low profile tires. Low profile tires and rims tend to get damaged more on the type of roads you described. The Accord sport also has 19” wheels. But Honda does have a 17” wheel option. Personally if I was buying the car I would switch to 17” wheels with a little more rubber in the sidewall save myself some headaches later. But if you’re careful and don’t drive like my wife does then it should be ok. | |||||
| RE: $6000 of work done and 150miles .... the car has no oil | 15Relevance | 5 years ago | G.T. | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It is not displayed in your profile. When I changed my profile picture it needed some time to display it. | |||||
| Answer to: Engine keeps dying after cleaning throttle body and MAF | 15Relevance | 5 years ago | JohnnyRemlik | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I am going to: check the spark plugs (as @oldandy recommends) check that spark occurs in every cylinder try starter fluid (as @yaser recommends) (although I smell a lot of gas coming from the engine compartment when cranking). I have a few questions: 1. Do I have to disable the fuel delivery system in order to check that spark occurs? 2. Can I remove the fuse EFI - 20 (see the image below) to disable the fuel and test the sparks? 3. Can I remove the fuse IG2 - 30 (see the image below) to disable the ignition and test the fuel? Fuses descriptions: EFI - 20 - Electronically controlled automatic transmission system, multiport fuel injection system/sequential multiport fuel injection system IG2 - 30 - Electronic ignition system/distributor ignition system 4. My distributor's cover has some sludge. It is normal? Lexus 1995 GS300; automatic; 250k miles. 5. In order to get access to all spark plugs, I have to remove the throttle body first. Am I supposed to reattach everything back for each cylinder test (spark/compression)? 6. I assume that, when I sprayed the throttle body cleaner beyond the throttle valve, some cleaner droplets got into the intake manifold or even into cylinders - and the cleaner vapor dissolved the oil on the cylinder surfaces, thus lowering compression. I am thinking of adding a few droplets of engine oil into each cylinder to raise their compression (make them wet). Is it a good idea? | |||||
| Answer to: Can this be a transmission issue? How will you suggest I deal with this? | 15Relevance | 5 years ago | Opeyemi | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi @scottykilmer and @Jpparisio , Thanks for your response. I did drain about 4 litres of the old transmission fluid and replaced it with brand new oil. So I mixed the old with new oil. Below is what the new and old oil looks like. I followed and advice I believe Scotty gave on one of his videos about not completely draining the old fluid.(i might be wrong on this) I have seen a massive difference after test driving and I believe changing the fluid in its entirety might give a better result. Do you think that is fine to do or I should just stick with what I have now. Thanks for your help so far. | |||||
| More car myths? Or not? | 15Relevance | 5 years ago | DontKnowler | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Dear Scotty, really love the way you are not only busting car myths, but are also explaining what is or was behind them.So below a short list of some more car-related theories you might want to dwell on: 1) Under certain circumstances small pieces of a catalytic converter might get sucked into the engines, thus destroying cylinders from the inside. 2) In a jacked up tire, the tire pressure is lower than when the car is standing on the ground, cause in the latter case the weight of the car itself adds up to the atmospheric pressure which compresses the tire from the outside. 3) If you want even tire wear, especially for low-profile tires, pressure in your forward tires shall be higher than in your rear ones, to compensate for the fact that due to the actual steering the outer edges of your front tires are contacting the ground (thus wearing out) way more intensively that the outer edges of the rear tires which cannot steer. 4) In cars with batteries located not under the hood (but in trunks or under rear seats etc.), the voltage regulators (which are located on the alternator, and which have a temperature compensation function which limits battery charging voltage depending on the temperature, which they measure not on the battery but inside the voltage regulator body) do a bad job and tend to be charging the battery with a too low voltage, because the temperature on the alternator, sitting next to the hot motor, is much higher than that in the, say, air-conditioned passenger compartment of a car. Hence, in cars with batteries located not under the hood batteries tend to be chronically undercharged. 5) If roads in your area tend to have significant grooves (wheel ruts) in them, you should over-inflate your tires (run your vehicle with a tire pressure which is higher than the factory specs) to compensate for the fact, that otherwise those ruts would cause premature wear of your tires` outer edges. 6) If roads in your area are bad quality, you should (especially when using low-profile tires) also over-inflate your tires to make your wheels more resilient against potholes, cause uneven tire wear caused by over-inflation is a much lesser evil than having to replace expensive alloy wheels after each pothole. 7) Spark plugs, if undamaged, as well as if cleaned (e.g. cooked in Coca-Cola 🙂 )and gapped correctly, can be used a virtually unlimited number of times - no need to throw them away and replace with new ones until they show some tangible defects. Hope you at least had some fun reading all of these 😉 Best Regards. | |||||
| Answer to: worth the buy? | 14Relevance | 1 year ago | thdesha | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Friend, go to a website called Govdeals.com Government entities sale these kind of vehicles all the time even in your local for 1/3 of the price your looking at... | |||||
| Alternators for 97 mazda b2300 | 14Relevance | 1 year ago | Thomas_Mello | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Is AC Delco a good brand for alternators for my 97 mazda b2300? There are not many options for a new alternator. I found the AC Delco alternator on Partsgeek.com | |||||
| Answer to: ATP AT-205 as a Plastic Restore? | 14Relevance | 4 years ago | avalon04 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Well I suppose now you’ve discovered that ATP-AT 205 was created to treat/rejuvenate rubber. For headlights, I have seen Scotty recommend Meguiar’s PLASTX, and Plexus plastic cleaner, protectant and polish. But now that you have damaged your headlight lenses with the rubber treatment, I don’t know if any product or procedure will restore them. But once you clean or replace them, the Plexus would be a good product to clean and protect them from UV damage. Check out: plexusplasticcleaner.com | |||||
| RE: Can my old car that has a few issues handle a road trip? | 14Relevance | 4 years ago | avalon04 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Com’on Thrust, a rental? Why If you haven’t taken a road trip in a car that leaks oil, has bad tires, brakes that need servicing and a non-functioning tail light…you haven’t lived! 😳 | |||||
| Answer to: is this a good daily driver | 15Relevance | 5 years ago | LiveLaughLove | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Agree with, @Glen_stet, five owners is wild and gives me pause. I do like the honest pictures (dents, missing speaker grill). I also, like the overall idea of the truck, 8 cyl and RWD is the way to go. About the second truck, seems better. A 20 yo truck for 6K, seems reasonable, going with @Glen_stet, mechanic clean bill of health. Even just to see if its been in a crash. Check em both out, drive it around the block, request you want to see the car cold, bring a flashlight, look around. The more "practice" looking at cars, will start to get the hang of it and in time may start to see signs of things being off (gaps, over spray, too clean/too dirty engine oil). Scotty has let us know that Carfax may not catch crashes, in other words a clean Carfax is to be taken with a grain of salt. Consider your budget. Is there enough to cover an uexpected repair? As a daily driver, what is a daily driver? Driving 100 miles each way? That may be a tall order. Going back to the Carfax, 10 records for a 20 year old car, a well maintained car should go in every 5K, 10 records seems low. Im contractidicting myself by writing Carfax cant be trusted, and then saying there are too few records. Check comparable vehicles in the area, if the price is similar, then it is. Check prices 100 miles away for comparison. Of course, bring the truck to a mechnic to check out. | |||||
| Answer to: Bigger wheels | 15Relevance | 5 years ago | Whatchamacallit | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Larger wheels, even if they are compensated for by putting on low-profile tires, can potentially cause issues with the vehicle’s suspension and brakes which were originally engineered for the smaller wheels due to the extra weight of the wheel (metal). Larger wheels give your vehicle’s springs and shock absorbers more weight to deal with, so you’d have to upgrade that - but now opening up a chain reaction of further upgrades (and $$) and not worth it. Also, because of the added weight it will require a longer distance to stop. Bigger wheel/low profile tire will also make for a harsher ride as you have less tire sidewall to absorb the bumps on the road as well as increased chance for wheel/tire damage and blowouts. Fitment might seem fine at the moment, but when loaded with people and baggage it could rub. Finally, bigger wheels can throw off your computer systems (speedometer/odometer) so you’d have to adjust them to compensate. In short, I don’t recommend doing that. | |||||
| 2014 - 2016 Mercedes B-Class opinions | 14Relevance | 4 years ago | Shyheimfox | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello, I wanted to get someone’s opinion on the Mercedes-Benz B-Class 2nd generation (linked below) “ Where I’m from we typically import our vehicles (Used/New) from Japan/Singapore. We source them from websites such as beforward.com or sbtjapan.com I’m interested in importing one with similar specs as the one below Make: Mercedes-Benz Model: B-Class 2nd generation Year: 2014 - 2016 Average Mileage: 30,000 - 90,000 Any advice would be appreciated! | |||||