2011 BMW X5 - Engine Malfunction (Rough Idle + Neutral). Driving fine but engine power reduce from faults

Hello everyone! I am new here and I was brought here from Scotty's videos! I love them, they've saved me so much money and I will be a fan/follower forever.

DRIVER INTRO/INVENTORY

A bit about me (as a driver) before I dive into my problems.... the current household inventory is as follows: 

- 2019 Toyota Corolla (Still paying off) 34K, 2nd owner, bought from Toyota dealer (I know, I'm dumb), no issues. 

- 2011 BMW X5 (Garaged, trying to get it up to par) 133K, IDK owners, bought from private lot, died in first week. 

- 2009 BMW 328i (Garaged, trying to get it up to par) 100K, 2nd owner, bought from BMW dealer (I know, I'm dumb)

- 2008 BMW 328i (Garaged, trying to get it up to par) 150K, 2nd owner, bought in private sale

- 2008 Hyundai Elantra (own) 105K, 2nd owner, bought from private lot, no issues.

TODAY'S ISSUE AND UPCOMING/ATTEMPTED FIX

WHERE THE PROBLEM STARTED

My father purchased a BMW from a private lot. They immediately drove it to the local BMW dealer to have them change all regular wear and tear endured parts (considering we purchased it used at 133K). Essentially we asked for a 1 over from the dealership after buying on a private lot. 

BMW Dealer calls us within days to let us know that after changing some hoses, running the car a bit, changing the engine oil, running it for a bit, etc. the engine, in a sense, died. So we contacted the person that sold us the car, with the backing of BMW dealer, and they gave us a newly refurbished engine with only 30K on it to compensate for the immediate failure in the engine after the sale. 

After installation of the new engine, BMW of AC and the lot are saying they've tested everything and they can not get the engine malfunction codes to go away. 

WHAT WE'VE DONE SINCE WE'VE TAKEN THE VEHICLE HOME AND GIVEN THEM THE FINGER (LOL)

- Purchased a code reader, and immediately went at the MAF sensor (I've seen many problems with MAF in BMW)

- Removed the connector to the MAF sensor and removed the MAF sensor. 

- Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF Cleaner (from Advanced Auto Parts).

- Allowed MAF sensor to dry/evaporate solution for 30 mins. Reconnected the MAF sensor to the housing and reconnected the wiring connector to the MAF sensor. 

- Knocked some codes off (I should have jotted them down with the old scanner before I purchased the new one but I forgot).

- But we are still facing the following: 

1. A skipping, and rough/low-powered idle in park and neutral (not AS bad in neutral). Which doesn't surprise me considering the dash LCD tells us that the engine is malfunctioning and is experiencing reduced power as a result. I also wonder if this is why it seems that it "takes a bit more" to get started, like a few more longer drawn out cranks. 

2. After resetting the engine codes, and doing an immediate rescan (to see what we get instantly faulting out again) are the following engine codes: 

PENDING CODES

- P0444 (Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open)

- P149A (EVAP System Shutoff Valve Control Circuit)

PERMANENT CODES

- P0444 (Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Open)

- P149A (EVAP System Shutoff Valve Control Circuit)

- P0300 Random Misfire Detected 

- P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected 

- P0171 System Too Lean (Bank 1)