Recently got a check engine light for P0302 cylinder 2 misfire detected. The car rumbles when stopped at a stoplight or parked and is very noticeable. Camry has 114K miles on it. Tried swapping #2 and #3 ignition coils but same code came up. Took out all spark plugs and wanted a second opinion on how they look. Spark plugs were changed 40K miles ago(DENSO # 3417). Haven’t tried swapping spark plugs to see if code goes away. I’d like to do a compression test on the cylinder but I’m not sure which fuse I have to pull to shut off the fuel. Not sure if the fuel injector is the culprit here but that’s where I was going to go if the compression test and swapping the plugs don’t produce results. Also my battery is almost 4 years old, would that be relevant to the misfire? Much appreciated.
Good news everyone, after changing out the spark plugs from Bosch I can confirm the spark plugs I got from Amazon were knock offs. The code has been cleared and the rumbling has went away.
Thanks for letting us know - this is why we warn people about buying parts from Amazon or Ebay. It's all too easy to wind up with counterfeit parts.
You can pull the INJ (7.5A) fuse in the engine compartment fuse box to disable the fuel injectors.
battery is almost 4 years old, would that be relevant to the misfire?
have it and your alternator load tested. It's free at a battery dealer.
Is it EFI NO.2 fuse or EFI-MAIN NO.1? I’m not sure.
I would guess the main one, but only a schematic would tell you for sure.
Or try pulling both.
Took out all spark plugs and wanted a second opinion on how they look.
nothing stands out. Find out the gap spec for your engine and measure what you have.
It helps to have a new one (or at least a photo) to compare to.
@mmj Shouldn't the central electrodes have iridium tips we can see? I don't see any tips on the central electrode. Makes them appear to have excessive gaps (more than .044)
@hixster
Looking at photos of new spark plugs with a quick search, I saw some of them have small buttons. However, I now see these are stamped "irididium" which I didn't notice before, so you may be right. But again, that's why I said that ideally they should be compared to a new plug, and the gap checked. If the tip is in fact eroded, then the plugs need to be replaced.
@mmj I've seen these before, on Amazon. Yeah, they cost less than at a part store but buyers aren't getting the genuine plug, instead they're getting knockoffs (that work for a while). I skimmed though the ratings and noticed many mentions of misfires, preset gaps being off substantially. He's chasing a misfire but his plug gaps look wide and his plugs have no iridium tip left/visible at all after 40K miles? That's a lot of erosion!
Took out all spark plugs and wanted a second opinion on how they look.
The look OK as far as I can see in the photo. Where did you get the plugs? There are a lot of counterfeits around, especially on eBay and Amazon.
I’d like to do a compression test on the cylinder but I’m not sure which fuse I have to pull to shut off the fuel.
If your fusebox cover doesn't have a fuse map there should be one in your owner's manual.
Also my battery is almost 4 years old, would that be relevant to the misfire?
Possibly, a weak battery can make computer modules go funny in the head. Have the battery and alternator load tested.
Also see the troubleshooting section of the site FAQ.
Chuck,
If you search for “SK16HR11” on Amazon, it’s the first result.
Can you help me locate the fuse? I had a picture of the fuse box on the original post but the image isn’t loading anymore. Is it EFI NO.2 fuse or EFI-MAIN NO.1? I’m not sure.
If you search for “SK16HR11” on Amazon, it’s the first result.
Can you help me locate the fuse? I had a picture of the fuse box on the original post but the image isn’t loading anymore. Is it EFI NO.2 fuse or EFI-MAIN NO.1? I’m not sure.
If you bought the plugs on Amazon there's a pretty good chance they are counterfeit.
I am not familiar with those cars (I've never owned a Toyota) and have no idea where that fuse is located. As I said that information should be in the owner's manual.
Another possibility would be to find and remove the fuel pump relay.
and then relieve residual pressure in the system!
Yes! Usually when I do a compression test it's on an ancient carbureted beast where you don't have to worry about that!