2019 Kia optima LX 2.5L
Hey I was thinking about changing my oxygen sensors but I'm not 100% how many oxygen sensors this car have
I was thinking about changing my oxygen sensors
Why? Do any of them test bad? Are there symptoms or codes indicating a possible problem?
Engine at 129k miles, I don't have any codes and I'm not familiar with the symptoms of a bad or going bad oxygen sensors. I just didn't know when or if I needed to change them cause of the miles
There's no regular replacement interval specified for O2 sensors. They're replaced when they go bad which can take a very long time.
According to the Kia parts catalog: 2.
Upstream sensor: KIA 39210-2G240 (replacement DENSO 234-5714)
Downstream Sensor: KIA 39210-2G260 (replacement DENSO 234-8030)
Before purchase verify this yourself too!
Besides, have you looked at OBD live data to determine they have actually failed?
These are state of the art sensors (one is not oxygen but AFR) that are also reliable and tend to last - I doubt they're your problem.
Engine at 129k miles, I don't have any codes and I'm not familiar with the symptoms of a bad or going bad oxygen sensors. I just didn't know when or if I needed to change them cause of the miles
Sensors are only changed when something is wrong with them as determined by troubleshooting. They are not changed by a certain mileage like maintenance items would be.
Oh ok I didn't know that, thanks lol. I'm slightly paranoid with this Kia I'm tryna make it last as humanly possibly by thinking of any maintenance things I need do or changing
I just didn't know when or if I needed to change them cause of the miles
What? You absolutely do not replace $250-300 worth of advanced sensor equipment for no reason!
The maintenance schedule for the car is listed in your car’s manual.
To get the most out of your car, abide by the schedule listed in the “maintenance under severe conditions” section.
Ignore the shortened time intervals, go by the shortened mileage intervals and perform all of the additional required maintenance items.
Engine at 129k
So it’s a replacement engine?
The tranny was replaced?
Or is the entire car at 129k?
last as humanly possibly
In that case:
- Replace engine oil and filter frequently (5k miles)
- If engine has GDi, clean intake values (every 40k-60k miles)
- inspect and service transmission regularly (20k-35k miles)
- inspect accessories and accessory drive.
- carefully clean MAF, MAP, Throttle.
- Inspect VIS flap.
- Inspect transmission fluid temperature - if it’s overheating or not reaching op temp, install additional ATF cooler with a thermal by-pass valve.
- Replace engine anti-freeze
- Inspect and replace PCV valve.
- Inspect brake fluid, bleed brakes, if required replace brake fluid.
- if your engine is not equipped with hydraulic self adjusting tappets, adjust valve clearances.
Some people even hake out the CV axles and grease the part that’s connected to the trans diff.
There are lots of things you can do to attempt to prolong its life, replacing good working sensors is not one of them.
Thank you for the information, and the whole car is 129k miles original engine and transmission. Unfortunately I never changed the transmission fluid but I have been keeping up with oil changes.
I'm slightly paranoid
if a sensor working fine, then don't touch it. Leave them alone and don't create new problems for yourself. The sensors could last longer than the vehicle itself.
Things that mechanically wear out .... belts, brakes, tires, shocks, bushings etc. ... those you should monitor.
Thanks, and I changed my brakes n rotors I haven't did anything to my timing belt or shocks and brushings
Inspect transmission fluid temperature - if it’s overheating or not reaching op temp, install additional ATF cooler with a thermal by-pass valve.
if it's passenger car transmission is over or underheating then something is wrong with it. The problem is not lack of coolers.
Some people even hake out the CV axles and grease the part that’s connected to the trans diff.
why?
over or underheating then something is wrong with it
Nope.
Most transmissions do not have thermal bypass valves so not being able to reach op temp under some drives is normal.
And similarly no,
Tranny running hot is also normal for a 2019, a lot of new trannys are built to reach 105°C (220° F) and then release TCC lock to not go even above that.
So the solution is to put a cooling system in place that maintains ~70°C, it’s a cheap and simple way to prolong the life of the tranny.
This is general knowledge, doesn’t even require experience in the field.
why?
Experience with these.
Good luck removing them if you don’t add grease on an A6 - it tends to get stuck to death on these particular trannies.
Also this can help theoretically prolong the life of the splines, on the A6GF1 they’re fragile and tend to wear out - this was their #1 reason for premature failure, although I don’t hear about em anymore.
none of my cars ever had any bypass valves and they warmed up fine. They never needed special cooling either. They stayed under 100C and lifetime was normal. This is some new bs not "general knowledge" .That's the first time I've ever heard of splines "wearing out" That is some real junk.
@mmj
Before collage I worked on transmissions and I have hands on experience with them, didn't have to, I come from a rather privileged background but I just love repair so it has been a great but short period.
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First of all "That's the first time I've ever heard of splines" - I guess people who haven't worked in the field and mechanics who only do component level repair don't know.
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I have replaced a bunch of these EXACT diffs due to discussing worn-out BAD SPLINES (some worn out, some sheered off).
It crunches, free wheels and then looks something like THIS, although most of the time they're just chewed up.
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https://youtu.be/ZAmj-Wjes3o
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And i found a case in English, although that one is AWD and not what OP has.
https://imgur.com/YB1EeOI
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The solution is to ADD GREASE, simple, much cheaper than "faulty transmissio - replace tranny"
With enough "braveness" you can ruin the splines on anything, I've seen it on older RAV4s with millage.
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Now, let's clear your points up.
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1. All cars should, and a lot of cars DO manage their ATF cooling system actively.
As an example out of many, the MPS6 on Chrysler, Mitsubishi, Ford, Volvo, Dodge, and in their other modifications probably on most makes - one of the transmissions that earns workshops lots of cash has this, the SHCMS and it controls COOLING amongst other shift related things.
Other's control it via adapting fluid pressure and changing strategies, yet in a lot of cases that is not enough.
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2. A lot of cars are not able to warm up ATF on city drives - mostly in cold temperatures, there are many examples of that - usually 4 speeds that do not lock up their TCC as aggressively as new ones.
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3. In a Toyota 8 speed - easily goes over 100C. I've seen it overheating on Peugeot, Volvo, whatever, they also have a ATF horrid rad but that's unrelated.
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Same for the A6GF1 OP has, after the 2017 update they have a tendency to
overheat - A stock Kia Stonic (can not tell you about the Forte) with that exact same unit reaches 105 C (before going into "cooling mode") and then it's not hard to go above 115 C when going above 60mph on a highway.
After 130C it disables 6th speed.
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Generally, most new small transmissions run quite hot.
This has began happening after cars have evolved to lock TCC in all gears.
@mmj so what are you trying to say?
Basically your comment is false, or in your own words "that's some real junk".
I have provided the info needed to validate my claims.
@ChuckTobias
Hi, the image doesn't load.
Can you write instead?
Bummer, it works for me, maybe will work from a different source...
Now it works. That’s disappointing and mildly disrespectful. Oh well.
Sorry you feel that way. I've been having a good ol' time.
I’m happy to hear that, Chuck.
Same here. ☺️
Thank you Dan. I've put your sources into my "to read/watch later" folder. I'll let you know when I've reviewed them.
Dude, please do not let me know.
It’s not the kind of thing I want to know, thanks. 👋
Hey I was thinking about changing my oxygen sensors
If the oxygen sensors are fine, you're just going to waste your money, OEM oxygen sensors are fairly expensive. I have a 1999 Ford Ranger with 292k miles and it's still on the factory original oxygen sensors. You need one before the catalytic converter, and one after it to determine the efficiency of the catalyst. Kias have a tendency to burn oil, which causes the catalytic converter to become inefficient (it's intended to burn remnant unburned gasoline, not oil). As long as your Kia doesn't burn oil, it's fine.
Thank you for the information, and yea at first I thought it was burning oil until I change the PCV. Only thing I noticed since last month is here n there when I accelerate from a complete stop it hesitate a bit.