2015 Nissan Sentra S model 6 speed, for the last two months, my car has had problems while idling. It runs great once it gets going. The code reader has given me these codes, P0102, P0014, P0300, P0112, P0850, P0011, P0603, P0037, P0130. It's generally 3 codes at a time, then I replaced parts and 3 different codes come up, it also says EVAP leak test failed. I've done everything from a smoke machine, soap and water, propane to find a leak, I can't find one. I've replaced the spark plugs, coils, both oxygen sensors, pcv valve, purge valve, camshaft sensor, intake and exhaust vvt solenoids, cleaned the fuel injectors. I just sent the ECM in to be repaired, because with all the codes I thought maybe that was the problem, but the shop said that its fine. So, I really don't know what else to do, now it stalls on me unless I keep hitting the gas and after I let up on the gas when I press the gas pedal again it doesn't do anything for a few seconds. I've had to miss work because my work is 40 miles away, and I don't want to be stranded or worse have someone run into me when the car doesn't want to move.
The thing that jumps out at me is that except for the timing codes all of these sensors are complaining about abnormal voltages.
Combine that with the fact that the drivability issue presents at idle when the charging rate is at its lowest.
For example, the IAT sensor is incorporated into the MAF sensor component. Yet both sensors are setting "low voltage" codes. (if that isn't a wiring/circuit issue then it's a pretty big coincidence). ((The computer gets the "expected voltage signal" from the IAT sensor by comparing it to the ECT sensor at certain times in the drive cycle so the ECT sensor is also in the mix))
On top of that there's an abnormal voltage code from the Park Neutral Switch. Also the heater circuit on the O2 sensor is complaining about low voltage. The other O2 sensor code (lean) could be caused by the MAF/IAT low voltage issue.
The Keep Alive Memory test code may have been triggered because the battery was disconnected for an extended period during one of those repairs. Or maybe not.
The computer monitors these voltages and does it accurately by providing a "clean ground" to the sensors/components.
You may want to keep in the back of your mind that this could be a ground point/ground wire issue on one of the ground computer wires. Or on the other hand, maybe one of the battery voltage inputs. Or any other "voltage drop" issues.
In your shoes I'd clear the codes. I'd keep my scanner in the car with me. As soon as the check engine light came on I'd grab the code(s) and grab (and save) the Freeze Frame Data from those code(s) and chase down that issue 1st.
If all else fails check the timing
Ok, I will try doing that and see what comes up first.
Thank You.
Have the alternator output checked. The low voltage signals may be due to below required output. Should be about 14.5 volts at idle. It is almost 8 years old.
