I have a 1998 honda accord with a 4 cylinder engin . When I first bought the car it would stall after a while of driving it every once in a while. Decided to clean out the the IAC valve but it turns out me doing that only caused it to become worst. My rpms started to surge up and down and ran at a high idle so I replaced the part. Bought a cheap one from amazon for about $30 (which I dont recomend doing) for it only lasted me about 100 miles then started to fail on me causing the car to stall on me multiple times on my way home and the rpms to fluctuate up and down. All though it didnt fluctuate every time I drove there were a number of times where I will try to start the car from a cold start and it will immediately shut off right after. Now that I have the original piece from rock auto the rpms dont fluctuate and the car doesn't have a rough idle anymore but the car still stalls every so often when idling. 2 things I've noticed is 1, when I put the new piece from rock auto I took it for a test drive. The car died on the main road but I was able to get it hom . After I got it home the car wouldnt stay running after countless of times turning it on, the car would shut right off afterwards. 2, my rpms will drop from 2k rpm to 1k rpm then back to 2k rpm when I let go of the gas. On the side note, when the car gives me a hard time to stop, I will hold the gas pedal down just to get it started and stay running which seems to work in order to get me home. Please help I'm not sure what to tackle next for I'm not trying to throw a bunch of money playing the guessing game. I will really appreciate any suggestions for what to look a . Thank you and god bless.
One thing I forgot to add. I have no check engine lights!
Found the problem. It was the ignition switch itself. Swapped it out with a new one and no more stalling
Thank you for updating us, and glad it was resolved. This will also help someone else in similar spot.
Clean the throttle body as well as the MAF sensor.
Try using a scan tool or fuel pressure gauge to check for low or fluctuating fuel rail pressure. You could have a dirty filter or failing fuel pump. Do you know when or if the fuel filter has been replaced?
BTW when cleaning the throttle body remove the new IAC valve first so it doesn't get gunked up or saturated with cleaner.
Yeah, I agreed with comments above....
Fuel filter being replaced yet? Air filter clean or dirty (need to be replaced)?? Serpentine belt looks good or old/cracked/worn (replace it)? Clean the throttle body....and do the code scan (you never know if code is there even the check engine light doesn't come on)...
Cleaned throttle body, checked belt but it's good, checked for codes. Only one I found was for a evap code. I havnt changed fuel filter yet and I will try a fuel pressure test. Thank you
Also check for vacuum leaks