I have a 2003 Ford mustang V6 convertible with 105k, changed the fuel tank because it was leaking along with the fuel pump. When I run the car to full operating temperature if I don't wait 45 minutes to 1 hour "cool down" the car will turn over but not start. I then replace the fuel pump a second time that I had changed when we got the new tank so pretty sure it's not that. Since the fuel relay is soldered on the continuous control relay module We also switched that out with another CCRM. Also changed the inertia switch. In testing the car, get it to operating temperature, shut the car off, wait 10 minutes, go to start it will turn over but not start. But again waiting that magical 45 minute to 1 hour it will turn over and start. As I get ready to reload my "parts cannon", what should I be looking for now?
As you have already found out the "parts cannon" approach rarely if ever works.
You need to do more diagnosis of what's going on during the time period when the engine cranks but does not start. (For example, is the fuel pump turning on? Is there a signal from the crankshaft sensor? Will it fire up with some starting fluid? Etc.)
You might want to check the troubleshooting section of the site FAQ if you have not already done so as it contains information on diagnosing a no-start condition.
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@chucktobias sorry submitted thru a battery dying android instead of the laptop.
No problem, just making you aware of it.
leaking along with the fuel pump.
I then replace the fuel pump a second time that I had changed when we got the new tank so pretty sure it's not that.
Did you use a Motorcraft fuel pump, or aftermarket Chinesium junk? Only use original equipment fuel pumps.
It sounds like one or more fuel injectors could be leaking. Once it's at operating temperature, get a scan tool and select live data. Scroll down until it says LTFT, it will read as a +/- percentage of perfect. If your injectors are running "lean", there will be a + on the scan tool, if the injectors are running "rich", there will be a - sign on the scanner. If there's a minus sign, you're running with too much fuel in the air-fuel mixture.
Here's an old trick from the days when carburetors ruled the roost. You had to manually prime the engine with the gas pedal on most cars before the first start of the day. People would often inadvertently "flood" their carbureted cars (way too much gas and not enough air) due to pressing the gas one too many times. When that happened, their car wouldn't start until the flooded mixture came out of the cylinders. Holding the throttle wide-open and starting carbureted cars allowed the flooded air/fuel mixture to vent a lot more rapidly and cause the car to start sooner.
Fast forward 30 years to electronic fuel injection, holding the throttle wide-open and trying to start the car does the same thing, the engineers designed the fuel-injected car so that the fuel injectors cut off if the throttle is held wide open while starting it. If the car starts quickly when you hold the throttle wide open, you have leaky fuel injectors.
