Scotty, I live in Minnesota and have a 2010 GMC Yukon XL, 5.3L.
My under carriage and frame has some surface rust but not a lot. It got a rubberized coating at some point but it’s starting to peal off. I want to put some under coating on before next winter to help protect against rust growing, but I realize it’s a little late to do the perfect under coating.
I plan on scrapping the rust, and sanding a little, but don’t want to do a ton of prep.
I want the put on the best under coating on myself, preferably brush on, not spray.
(I’ve seen guys use truck bedliner material. Is that what you would recommend??)
I would love any tips an amateur should know.
thanks !
Wow, that stuff looks like a nightmare. I don’t think I would use that... ever. Thanks!
This is great, but for those of us who don't have a lift..... how would we do this ?
ramps, overalls, and goggles
Trying to fight rust? No trouble: … LPS-3 to the rescue. Trust me, …
I spray each of my cars only one time - inside and out, cavities especially - spot welded seams, overlapping welds - when I acquire each, with LPS-3. I generally mix LPS-3 with 1/3 Varsol / 1/3 engine oil, … spray it with airless spray gun. Than, I leave a car sitting outside for a bit to dry it out. Rust never has a chance after that!
Like I said before, trust me, … and I drive in the area where snow, salt and gravel resides on the roads for better of 7 to 8 months of the year! All I do after treatment is, I never wash a car in the winter, but only rise it - whenever temperature drifts above freezing sufficiently. That’s it, …
https://www.itwprobrands.com/product/lps-3
Buy it in bottles or pail. Usually sold in industrial supply shops.
F.S.
Thanks for this ! Any tips on prep ?? Should I scrape existing rust, and spray on rustoloeum rust reformer first, then this? Or should I just scrape and brush, and then apply lps3? Tips please ! Thanks !
yeah , you have to clean it up , or the rust will just flake off along with your expensive product you just sprayed on.
This stuff works reasonably well on raw metal. But it works very, very well on surface-rusted metal, it penetrates, displaces moisture, than dries to non-sticky, waxy film. As long as there are no big rust flakes. You know, fat flaky stuff, that just flakes off as you touch it. You have to flake that stuff off first. Otherwise, surface preparation is rinse it well with clean water, blow the fasteners and nooks and crannies with compressed air. That’s it.
As far as applying it, I don’t recommend using it straight out of the can and brushing it on. Mixing it with Varsol, … or good thinner and clean engine oil: in 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 proportion is perfect combination. That way, you can simply spray it with electric airless paint gun, … like Wagner. You need some attachments, like flexible cavity wand, so you can insert it into frame holes and spray inside the frame. You can get those, … flexible plastic tubing with spray fitting on one end, and attachment fitting to the gun on the other.… about 3 - 4 ft long seems long enough to reach to most places within the frame. Bolts and nuts: … those are best loosened a bit, sprayed, than tightened after. That’s about it.
Btw, this stuff has been certified for lubricating and protecting from corrosion equipment in food processing plants, … so it should be quite safe to use. Still, I would only apply it outside, on somewhat windy day. And after, leave the car outside for a day or two before driving it.
F.S.
