You need to replace that "burnt & bent" fuse first. That's a big fuse and it has to be able to support the amperage, not just trickle 12 volts through it.

Get that fuse out of the equation.

I'm assuming your rear a/c blower motor isn't working and this isn't a "not blowing cold" issue.

You're concerned if the rear blower motor is receiving Battery Voltage.

So, you're diagnosing an electrical issue and (after checking fuses and relays) you always start at the "load" which in this case is the rear blower motor.

Sometimes it's useful to adopt a "What If?" strategy.

So in this case, "What If?" the rear blower motor is provided battery voltage and ground? Will it work?

You'd disconnect the connector at your rear blower motor, provide Battery Voltage to one terminal and Ground to the other terminal of the blower motor. Does it spin? If it spins then the blower motor is good.  If it doesn't spin then the blower motor is fried.

The next "What If?" would bring you back in the circuit a little farther.

Let's look at the "Positive Voltage" part of it since you're concerned with a "Blown Fusible Link" possibility.

The RR A/C Relay.

The A/C Amplifier provides the Ground "signal"  (#2 in the diagram) to energize the relay's coil, which closes the Relay's Internal Switch (between pins 5 and 3) and provides Battery Voltage to your Rear Blower Motor.

So, "What If?" the Relay socket isn't getting power (Blown Fuse/Fusible Link/damaged wiring to the relay socket) or if the relay socket isn't getting the Ground signal from the A/C Amplifier (to energize it), or if it is, is there a problem (blown fusible link/damaged wiring) between the Relay and Blower Motor?

That's a lot of "What Ifs?" and you need to drill down on them one at a time.

So 1st, check relay pin sockets 1 and 5 for Battery Voltage (KEY ON)  to remove the "What If" the Relay isn't getting power? from the equation.

The relay can't be energized by the A/C Amplifier's Ground without power to the relay's coil at pin 1 and it can't deliver power to the blower motor without power at pin 5. (if either isn't getting power find out why. (Blown fuse/fusible link/damaged wiring)

If the relay's socket pins 1 and 5 voltages are good, then you'll want to remove the "What If" the A/C Amplifier's Ground Signal, which energizes the relay's coil, isn't being provided? from the equation.

Using a heavy gauge jumper wire, jump pins 5 and 3 of the relay socket and turn on the rear A/C through the dash controls to see if it works.

Here's what the RR A/C Relay socket will look like when you pull the relay out.

You'll jump socket pins 3 and 5.

Now, go back to that rear blower motor connector (removed)  and check for Battery Voltage at the #2 pin of the blower motor's connector when the Rear A/C controls are ON.

If you do have Battery Voltage going to the Blower Motor's #2 Pin Connector, then there isn't an issue with the blower motor getting power because of a blown fusible link or an "open" (break)  in the positive wiring .

You'll want to determine why the A/C Amplifier isn't providing Ground to the RR A/C Relay Socket Pin 2 to energize the Rear Blower Relay.

(Is it an issue between the dash controls and the A/C Amplifier or the A/C Amplifier itself?)

However, if you don't have  Battery Voltage at the Blower Motor's #2 Connector Pin, then there is indeed a problem in the wiring between the relay and the blower motor (perhaps a blown fusible link/broken/open wire).

Let us know what you find out.

You may have to troubleshoot the "Ground Side" of the circuit which is much more complicated and is controlled by the A/C Amplifier (again), the Rear Blower Motor Controller/ blower motor resistor.

Generally so close to the battery you can always just rewire the power though and put a regular fuse in line they just use fusible links cuz it's cheaper to build them that way