99 Dodge RAM 2500 Diesel 4X4 164K Automatic transmission
Having a leak after doing a rear differential Gasket job on vehicle that I just bought.
Vehicle is a 99 Dodge RAM 2500 Diesel 4X4. The only gasket I could find after checking with 5 auto parts stores was a cork gasket. Not my favorite at all....Was told by the store that no need to put any RTV with it, just the gasket. Instructions on gasket confirmed that. Cleaned housing and cover surfaces of all residue. Put gasket on, tightened up 10 BRAND NEW bolts that I just bought in the recommended sequences, but did not torque them as torque wrench became "missing in action".
Took a 25 mile ride hitting about 60 MPH for about 10 miles of the trip. The rest of the trip was local roads averaging 40 MPH. When turning in the driveway I could still feel the binding with the limited slip issue with the rear end. Is 25 miles perhaps not enough distance for the LS additive to get to work? It was only 24 degrees during the ride, or should I be suspicious that the clutches or other rear differential components are problematic? Upon inspection the rear end is STILL LEAKING just about the same as before I started. GRRRRRRR!
Questions I have with folks that have done these gaskets, do you think it would matter at all if I ran a torque on the bolts or go ahead and drain the rear differential and start over. Believe I should be able to save the fluid as at $13.99 a quart PLUS the cost of the LS fluid, would try my best to reuse it. I went all of 25 miles. Is the rubber gaskets a better bet and perhaps use some RTV as well as the rubber gasket especially around the bolt hole areas. Or is RTV only the way to do one that is having a leaking problem.
Looking for suggestions before going after this again.
Cork gaskets went out with high button shoes. Iv'e done this before - get a sheet of regular gasket paper, make my own gasket, use Permatex Part B on both sides and put thread sealant on the bolts, torque them to manufacturers specs.
Cork gaskets are fine. I've had no problem with them, and transmission shops use them too. A little bit of seep is normal to see. It takes a bit of time for the cork to swell up. Just snug up the bolts a little bit more.
You must make sure the vent tube is clear.
Remove it and blow through it to make sure it's clear. Push a piece of wire or something through the nozzle on the axle housing. If this is blocked, the axle will always leak.
I will check the vent tube as well....
Very much appreciate the replies. I picked up a torque wrench today as mine in MIA and will re torque the bolts and see what happens. Have not heard that the cork needs to swell or break in before.
I have one bolt with TWO washers on it, as the bolt will NOT seat fully and 3/4 of the way it it tweaks to the side. To the right of that bolt is one that needs one washer, same issues. Found this from previous ownership.
It has been sitting for about 48 hours, NOT driven but didn't see any leaks when I looked at it this afternoon. Perhaps......the gasket may have swollen some? All of 16 degrees out, so not ready to mess with it until a bit warmer.
I am trying to find a tap for a
DANA SPICER 47508-1
Differential COVER Bolt .375-16
- Thread Size = 0.375 - 16
- Head Size = 0.562 in.
- Thread length = 0.625 in.
- Thread locker = Yes
- Flange face = Smooth
maybe the bolts got mixed up? Sometimes , some positions need longer bolts for attaching brakes cables and stuff like that.