Hey, I'm from EU and we don't have many different Toyota Corolla engines here. from 2019 - 2022 we have 1.2 l TURBO petrol, 1.8l hybrid and 2.0l hybrid, all hatchbacks or wagons. SO, hybrids are 2 expensive, even used, so I would like to know, is the 1.2 TURBO as reliable as the other toyota engines? I know turbos are not the best with small petrol engines, but knowing it's a Toyota, does it matter ? The prices are from 16k-20k eur for turbo, while hybrids are from 22k-26k eur. We also have sedans, but I don't like long cars, they do come with a 1.6l or 1.5l engine.
At the moment I have a 2017 Toyota Corolla sedan (ironic I know), 1.6l, 132hp, 6 speed manual, 96 000 KM (59 500 miles)
Thank you
1.2 l TURBO petrol
These engines are meh, they're still too new to know all of their issues - but they're really not great.
It's a turbocharged version of the smaller Yaris engine, it was already mediocre before the added stress.
1.8l hybrid
These are the ZR series of engines and they're some of the best engines out there, BUT the best variant is the NON-hybrid, NON-valvematic, smaller 1.6 VVT-i (1ZR-FE) as these can last indefinitely when serviced properly (every 7.5-10k km)
These usually are the new DynamicForce engines, they're not good for cold climates and they're not as solid as the previous generation ZR powered hybrids. (due to issues with water condensation)
but knowing it's a Toyota, does it matter ?
Well... the laws of physics still apply and it's going to get worn out faster than a non-turbo.
At the moment I have a 2017 Toyota Corolla sedan (ironic I know), 1.6l, 132hp, 6 speed manual, 96 000 KM (59 500 miles)
Almost perfect! that's a solid powertrain in a very solid car.
I'd recommend trying to find one with the ~122hp variant (1ZR-FE), it tends to have less issues than the ~132 (1ZR-FEA)
Although both of these engines are still some of Toyota's best of the best (as far as small ones).
Also, usually in Europe you can find cars with less millage, 60k miles is not much but if possible I'd look for less...
But if you can't find a lower millage 122hp corolla in a similar condition for a similar price, the 132hp corolla is still one of the best cars out there!
Also, if possible get a manual - They’re much better than CVTs.
No matter the engine, If you get a CVT (99% of the time) that’s the first thing that’s going to break - they’re just weak.
Thank you for the reply 🙂
I woul also like the know, what is the difference (if there is one), between VVT-i and Valvematic? VVTi is variable valve timeing right ? And, if I check correctly, I have the 1ZR-FEA engine, as I can not find any 122hp petrol cars, only hybrids, but they have a 1.8l, not a 1.6l.
About finding cars... We don't have any corollas for sale, only old ones, or ones with a smaller engine (1.33l with 99hp)... everything else is a hybrid or an Auris, but they are not cheap.
VVT-i / Dual VVT-i - simpler and more reliable.
ValveMatic - better fuel economy and power but it can cause issues.
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VVT-i ("Variable Valve Timing - Intelegnet" ) changes how much time the valves stay open/close.
these are very reliable, expect for rattle on startup - it doesn't have many issues.
https://youtu.be/kPQ0Ds527t0
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ValveMatic ("Variable Valve Lift And Timing") changes how much time and distance the valves open/close.
these can have glitches and faults, it's a less reliable technology but it's not that bad.
https://youtu.be/gyr6wlAqSDo
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detailed technical information on the ZR engine: https://toyota-club.net/files/faq/19-09-30_faq_zr-engine_eng.htm
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I'd avoid the 1.33 and hybrids if possible, the 1.6 132hp Corolla sounds quite good.
Ahhh, Ok, so, if the ''beauty cover'' as Scotty calls it, says ''VVT-i'', that means I have the more simple and reliable engine, right? becouse that's what it has on it, but when I bought the car, the add said ''Valvmatic'' in the title. A mistake from the seller maybe ?
Anyways, thank you fro the help, Means a lot 🙂 also, we don't have many CVT's or automatic cars from japaneese companies (honda, mazda, toyota, and so on...). So having a manual is almost the only option hah.
And the 1.6l seems a bit under powerd, so the 1.33l is not even an option, hybrids are also not in my interest, let alone eletric cars (like the new bz4x).. at least for now..
Could be, check the engine type - if the engine type if "FAE" then it's equipped with ValveMatic, if it says "FE" then it's the regular Dual VVT-i.
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All automatic family cars from Toyota and Honda are CVTs.
Mazda doesn't have CVTs - their newer models are equipped very dependable conventional automatics.
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A regular manual Corolla is a good choice, much better than my Corolla's automated manual.
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I think that the 1.6L is enough for a Corolla, it does 0-100kmh in just over 10 secs and that's alright.
Why aren’t DynamicForce engines good for cold climate?
@Kaizen
Humidity in the air enters the oil compartment and condensates.
In cold climates the engine is unable to get the water to evaporate and you get oil diluted with water.
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Official Toyota description:
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10206528-9999.pdf
In typical Toyota fashion, they aren’t nice to the owners - they do not cover in under warranty (or engine wear caused by it) although that’s obviously an issue with how they designed/built the engine.
Whoa that’s crazy.
'(1ZR-FEA)' - did you mean FAE? As I see, those are avaliable in newer Toyotas, while FEs in older ones.
@g-t Yep, it's a typo. The "FAE" version is the more "advanced" one.
The "FE" version is still available on brand new cars depending on the region (Corolla in the UAE).
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Soon this entire ZR lineup will be irrelevant:
The 1ZR and 2ZR conventional cycle are replaced with the M15A-FKS (DynamicForce GDi 3 cylinder)
The 3ZR petrol is being replaced with the M20A-FKS. (DynamicForce MPi+GDi 4 cylinder)
The 1ZR and 2ZR Atkinson cycle are being replaced with the M15A-FXS (DynamicForce GDi 3 cylinder ?? Cycle)
2ZR-FXE Atkinson cycle is being replaced with the M20A-FXS (DynamicForce MPi+GDi 4 cylinder Miller cycle)