Vehicle: 1999 Honda Accord EX Coupe, 3.0L V6, 64,000 miles, auto trans.  This vehicle has an intermittent stalling problem that has been going on for about 2 years. Symptoms: The first time it stalled I was driving down the highway about 50 mph and it was as if the passenger reached over and shut the key off. No warning, no stuttering...just shut off. I coasted to the side of the road. I was afraid that the catalytic converter would catch the grass on fire, so I tried to restart the car. It started right up, and I drove off. The car ran perfectly after that. The next time it stalled I didn't even pull over. I just put the car in neutral, waited for all of the dash lights to come on, restarted the car, put it back in drive and continued on my merry way. The car would be fine for weeks, even months, then suddenly it would stall. 

  At this point I should mention that I checked it with an OBDII reader and the only code that it threw was an EVAP system code, either P1456 or P1457, I don't remember right now. I continued driving the car because it was so sporadic and always started right back up on the first attempt after stalling...always. I tried a few things to fix the car myself but with no success. I checked the fuses, I changed the main relay, I had the ignition switch recall performed, I changed the electrical side of the ignition switch, I cleaned the throttle body and ran injector cleaner in the gas. Everything I tried did not stop the problem. So, I took the car to my trusted mechanic and because it didn't throw a code, he didn't know what to fix. I told him to keep the car and see if they could get it to stall then figure it out from there.  After a week he called me and said he couldn't find anything wrong with the car.  I picked it up from him and it stalled and shut off on my way home. My mechanic recommended another mechanic that used to work for him but went out on his own. He told me that this mechanic was extremely good with the electrical side of things and could probably figure it out. So, I took the car to him and described the symptoms to him, well actually just the one symptom, which was the shutting off thing. Again, it was as if you just turned the key off. No warning, spitting or sputtering, just running fine one minute and coasting to a stop the next.

  Well, he explained to me that this type of ghost problem could be a nightmare to find and very time consuming. He asked me did I want to spend hundreds of dollars, possibly as much as a thousand, to diagnose a problem on a car that's probably only worth $4000 because of its age. He told me to keep a diary of what the situations were when the car stalled and see if we could detect a pattern. Now my car is low milage, with excellent paint and leather interior. I am the original owner and would like to get some more goody out of it.  I even took it to a third import car mechanic, and he refused to even look at it, sighting its age and difficulty of finding parts. Most parts are still readily available, so I don't know what his deal was. Probably figured it wasn't profitable.

So, I started paying close attention to what was happening at the time the car would stall. Originally it was so random I couldn't tell anything. It would stall out doing 70 on the interstate or sitting in a Wendy's drive thru. But recently the stalls have become closer together and now the car will stall once or twice every time I drive it. And instead of starting back up immediately, it takes 3 or 4 attempts, but it finally restarts and runs fine. So here is the pattern that I have become aware of recently. It typically stalls when I am slowing down. Such as getting ready to stop behind stopped traffic at a light, or turning into a parking lot, or slowing up coming to a stop sign. Making a left turn or a right turn makes no difference. It just seems to be the slowing up just before a stop or making a slow turn that triggers a stall. So weird. Maybe it's an idle control problem, I don't know.

So, all of the forums have been no help because you get twenty different answers that don't match my symptoms. Oh, it's the fuel pump, or the main relay, or the ignitor, or the coil, or the crank position sensor, or the EGR valve or the etc, etc, etc. Again, the computer does not throw a code so it's probably not a sensor because that's what the computer monitors. My mechanic doesn't want to work on the vehicle anymore and suggested I get a newer car. Sarcastically but I think he meant it. I can't afford to just throw parts at it which I've already done some of. Ignition switch, main relay, etc. I've been fighting cancer and winning so far but I need a dependable car to get me to my doctor's appointments. Please, please, please, can someone help me figure this out.

Thank you so much. I apologize for such a long post.