SoCal Lineman
The first few times I saw you ranting and raving I thought you were crazy (like me). However, after listening to you I realized a few things. We're about the same age. 2, we've both been married 53 years. 3, you are quite smart and we both think alike in that we question everything and admit it when we're wrong.
To the point, I bought an A30D X-Tool and it was very good, like you said. It gave the diagnostic codes P0013, P0023 , for my 2014 Toyota Sienna with 109,000 miles. I've checked 2 of the 4 sensors and both had resistance readings.
Question, are these circuits protected with a fuse? I've looked in vain so far for a free electrical schematic, in case I need to follow it looking for an open. Is there such a thing? Seems like Toyota is making it hard to get one?
I believe Toyotas are better made than most brands. I personally watched Ivan Stewart Off Road racing develop TRD and saw firsthand how strong their parts were.
Thank you Scotty, for your spot on info! 🙂
Sensors are not protected by fuses because they are not loads. They are high impedance (low current/power ... ie microwatts) devices. The are connected directly the main computer.
Visit obd-codes.com, type in your code, and follow the troubleshooting there.
Electrical schematics would be part of the service manual set, which Toyota does not provide for free. Pick up a Haynes manual (basic repair) or see your local public library. Most have subscriptions to digital auto service resources.
For those codes, sometimes dirty oil can trip them. Change the oil and reset the codes. Drive the car and see if they come back.
You need to have the right resistance readings. Both of your exhaust OCV solenoids are setting codes so comparing their resistance readings to each other won't help you much.
You can compare the resistance you're reading on those exhaust OCV solenoids to the resistance on the intake OCV solenoids (they aren't setting codes so we'd assume they're "known good" and make sure the readings are close).
Those are circuit codes. The weird thing is that you're getting circuit codes on both banks for their individual exhaust cam OCV solenoids.
They're wired like this:
They don't share a power wire or computer pin (driver) and they don't share a ground wire or a computer ground pin.
That said, they are grouped right next to each other on the E11 ECM connector so I guess if there was a corrosion issue in the corner of that connector it could be responsible for setting those codes. (open or short to power/ground) but that's really jumping ahead and very unlikely.
Anyway, testing the circuit for opens or shorts (or voltage drop) is easy enough.
Unplug an OCV solenoid connector. Either C25 or C26. Doesn't matter which one you test 1st.
One wire is Ground and the Other wire is the 12 volt PWM signal.
You need to put a little bit of a load on the circuit because like I said, corrosion in a connector or wiring is an unlikely but possible reason for the codes so you might as well rule out voltage drop while testing for an Open or Short in the wiring or connectors.
If you use a multimeter or a regular test light for this you could end up chasing your tail because the circuit has to be able to energize an electromagnet (solenoid).
Go down to the auto parts store and buy a 194 bulb and a pigtail connector.
Costs around $5.
That will put about a 1/4 amp load on the circuit. Just plug in those two wire ends into the OCV solenoid connector. (doesn't matter the polarity).
Start the car. Even when the computer isn't adjusting the cam timing it's constantly monitoring it so that light should light brightly and should blink on and off as the computer plays with the duty cycle .
You want that light to be lit brightly.
If it doesn't, bring the rpms up and check again.
Your scanner should be able to command the duty cycle of the OCV solenoids so you can bump it up to 5% or 10% and check the light that way.
I took those images from here:
https://www.tsienna.net/toyota_sienna_service_manual-424.html
