1996 Toyota 4Runner SR5, 322,000 miles. Since I hit over 300K I decided to do a bunch of maintenance including: fluid change on power steering, front and rear differentials, transfer case, oil. I also noted rear axle seals leaking, changed them, greased for the 1st time ever u-joints and drive shaft yokes, noticed the master cylinder leaking, I swapped that with a new Toyota one.
I do not remember exactly when the vibrations started, but I think it was after the grease job. Driving local staying under 40, I didn't notice it. Hitting about 70 it started to shake violently, then even slowing down to 40 it still shook. I noticed grease around the one cv axle, so I replaced them both with re-manufactured ones. I also noticed that something seems to be holding the car back. I replaced the front calipers.
When I am driving and then shift to neutral, the car slows quickly and will stop. Sitting still it seems stuck when lightly hitting the gas. Could the brand new master cylinder be bad? This would not cause the vibration if the brakes are dragging or would it? A local mechanic suggested the vibrations are from the rotors, I have them on order. Don't want to keep throwing parts at it. Please help!
Thanks, Brian
OK after watching a few more videos, I have it fixed. When I installed the new master cylinder (s) I did not check the length of the booster pushrod. When I replaced the first one I never checked it and it worked fine. Perhaps Aisin is making them with a shorter inner space, I don't know. This was off a few millimeters and was causing the brakes to drag and was also blocking brake fluid from backing into the reservoir.
After a road test, I have no more vibrations and I could tell instantly that it was not being held back.
Thanks again to everyone who helped out.
I had a 98 so I know the oddities of that vehicle.
When I hear brake vibration, I think warped rotors because they do that a lot. How long have you owned it?
You say you greased the zerk fittings for the first time, so it is a 4x4?
How do you know the brake master cylinder is leaking? If the cylinders in the rear drum brakes have never been changed, it could be those as well.
I suggest only Akebono brake pads, it will help to not warp your rotors.
Sorry, I think I missed some of the issues before. Sounds like you are dragging a brake.
I felt my old Ford f-150 dragging like you describe, so I got out and felt the rims, I could tell that one was much hotter than the others. I replaced the calipers and the brake lines that attach to the caliper.
First check where the trouble is coming from, then test what piece is malfunctioning. If it is the right front dragging, jack it up and see if you can turn the tire, it should drag a tiny but, but not much. If it is stuck, crack the bleeder on the caliper and see if it lets go. If it does not release, the caliper is stuck. If it releases, you have an issue like a bad brake line, or something upstream.
How old are your rotors, and why do they need replacing?
Who does the work on your car, like greasing the driveshaft, and replacing the master cylinder?
Yes 4x4, I could see the brake fluid running down and removing paint from the booster and the undercoating.
Owned it since 97.
I am not sure it is coming from the brakes I get no pulsation. I do use Akabono Spelling?
I will replace the rotors and tires both need it. If that doesn't work I got no idea what to do.
Yes I did over adjust the rear brake. I was not sure how to fix it because I could not get the drum back off. I watched a Timmy the Toolman short video and saw how to put a screwdriver through the back slot. Anyway I think that fixed my dragging issue.
The rotors were replaced many years ago, at least 10+. I am pretty sure the last time they were turned the guy told me they were close to being done. So replacing them is not an issue.
I do most of the work on my 4Runner, and I did the grease and master cylinder. In fact I did all the jobs I listed in the 1st post.
So now I am down to the vibration. It barely does it until I get it up to about 70, then it continues even at like 25. Rotors and tires should be done by Wednesday so I am hoping it is one of those. Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Even warped rotors should only cause vibration if you are applying the brakes. It could be the tires, but sounds odd for sure. Once you do that work, and I suggest getting a wheel alignment, if you weren't already, after that you can work on whatever issues still exist.
Also, who re-manufactured the cv axles?
I just installed the new rotors and had a real hard time on the last side. The brake fluid would not back up into the cylinder. The pistons moved freely until I pressed on all four. This make me think I have a blockage somewhere. I ordered a replacement master cylinder.
The road test showed the vibration is much less but it is still there. Also there is a drag for sure. I thought is was gone before but it is there.
The CV's are from Cardone. I have heard of them before, they seemed to have a decent reputation.
I just installed the new rotors and had a real hard time on the last side. The brake fluid would not back up into the cylinder. The pistons moved freely until I pressed on all four. This make me think I have a blockage somewhere. I ordered a replacement master cylinder.
The road test showed the vibration is much less but it is still there. Also there is a drag for sure. I thought is was gone before but it is there.
The CV's are from Cardone. I have heard of them before, they seemed to have a decent reputation.
Did you test to see which wheel, or wheels, are dragging?
When you drive it, feel the rims and see if each are about the same temperature. A dragging one will get much hotter than the other. That should rule out the master cylinder if only one is dragging, and help you to focus on the right area. Jacking the car up and checking wheel spin also can test each tire, as I mentioned before. Driving it while a brake is dragging is not good for it, as I am sure you know.
I finally got another master cylinder, it would not bench bleed properly. So I found out Aisin has a subsidiary called Advics that produces brake parts for the aftermarket. It was about $140, much cheaper than buying through Toyota. It has the exact same markings on it as the original. So I got that one today and installed it, bleed the brakes and I STILL have the shaking when I took it out on the highway. Now I am really stumped I don't even know where to look now.
Any thoughts on this issue?
As a recap, I replaced: upper and lower ball joints, calipers and rotors, new tires, cv axles, rear axle seals, power steering fluid, gear oil in front and rear diffs and the transfer case, lubed the drive shaft, oil change. The drive shaft is rock solid no movement, the wheels at 12 & 6, and 3 & 9 no movement, had an alignment done
Did you test drive it after putting on each part? Throwing that many parts at it could be causing more issues if you are not careful.
Yes I did. My last guess is to replace the flex brake lines. I have upgraded ones on it now, but they may be too old. I read that they may swell when they get heated. They arrive here on Monday. Should be a quick swap. I say that but then it will take hours. Anyway I am stumped.
if you drive at 50mph and let off the gas and let it ride, and you feel a push back every once in a while, like a shove back stopping you, or clunking sound and a push, it could be your transmission, its a old car, 28 years!
shaking on the highway could be from using fix a flat liquid in your tire bouncing around. if you have used it recently.
jack your car up and step on gas, watch the tires to see which one stops first.
have a mechanic measure the break pads, they if brand new should measure, 11 or if they have been used the front two should be 7 or 5 and back ones! should both be 5 or 7 . the brakes fronts should match and the backs should match in wear.
drive 50 mph and let go off the wheel does it pull left or right? step on the brakes does it pull?
Success! At least I think so.
I replaced the flex lines today and took it out on the highway. No violent shaking like before, so for the most part I think it is fixed.
I am however having some doubts, I notice a mild vibration when driving normal. It may just be the age of the car, or it may be me being hyper sensitive to it since I was having these issues.
Thank you everybody who helped!
Glad to hear it! I mentioned that on my 2nd post, but I have never heard of that happening on a 4Runner, were your upgraded brake lines aftermarket?
I claimed success too quickly. The brakes are still dragging. I am at a loss. The fronts are both hot and had fresh brake dust. At a stop light if I barely touch the gas you can hear that the brakes are engaged, I can also feel something is holding me back.
At least now I think this is and was the whole problem.
Yes I got the originally upgraded flex lines from Wheeler's Off Road. The were SS braided.
The new ones I got off of Amazon and are Centric / SS braided.
I claimed success too quickly. The brakes are still dragging. I am at a loss. The fronts are both hot and had fresh brake dust. At a stop light if I barely touch the gas you can hear that the brakes are engaged, I can also feel something is holding me back.
At least now I think this is and was the whole problem.
Yes I got the originally upgraded flex lines from Wheeler's Off Road. The were SS braided.
The new ones I got off of Amazon and are Centric / SS braided.
I claimed success too quickly. The brakes are still dragging. I am at a loss. The fronts are both hot and had fresh brake dust. At a stop light if I barely touch the gas you can hear that the brakes are engaged, I can also feel something is holding me back.
At least now I think this is and was the whole problem.
Yes I got the originally upgraded flex lines from Wheeler's Off Road. The were SS braided.
The new ones I got off of Amazon and are Centric / SS braided.
I claimed success too quickly. The brakes are still dragging. I am at a loss. The fronts are both hot and had fresh brake dust. At a stop light if I barely touch the gas you can hear that the brakes are engaged, I can also feel something is holding me back.
At least now I think this is and was the whole problem.
Yes I got the originally upgraded flex lines from Wheeler's Off Road. The were SS braided.
The new ones I got off of Amazon and are Centric / SS braided.