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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: Oil type for 2004 Lexus IS300 | 22Relevance | 6 years ago | Razmig Bartassian | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| @albert21No. The only difference between synthetic and regular is the refining process:Synthetic is man-made which means the molecules are all controlled (same size to provide a nice even film), have little to no contaminants, are more effective at providing the right weight at the operating temperatures, and most importantly last longer than regular oil.Regular oil is refined from crude oil which means the molecules are of different sizes, they may have more contaminants than synthetic oil, and they are not as effective for providing correct weights at diff ... | |||||
| Ford F150/Toyota Corolla Oil Change Type of Oil | 22Relevance | 3 years ago | nicorsar | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... it annually anyway. But is that true of an F150 2.7 Liter Turbo? I read that for that engine I should use Blended to possibly Full synthetic, regardless of mileage. Any insights would be greatly appreciated. On a related note, I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla that has ONLY had synthetic oil, but same issue, I drive it infrequently, so can I change from Full synthetic (all that has ever been in that engine) to Conventional oil (it has 90,000 miles)...or stick with it? As always thanks team!Nick | |||||
| Can I put synthetic oil in my 2012 Tacoma | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | john paul | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, Thanks so much for all the information you put out. I have a 2012 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab with a V6 auto. It has 36k miles. Bought new. I change my own oil and always use Castrol and factory filter. The owners manual says to use conventional oil. I can no longer find the weight required in conventional, only synthetic blend or pure synthetic. Is there any long term problem using the blend? Since I put little mileage on it, I change the oil/filter every 6 months. Thanks again! | |||||
| Answer to: Synthetic or Mineral oil ? | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | James St. Clair | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Stronger/more detergents in synthetic oil will clean out more carbon and there will potentially be leaks by the seals where the carbon was built up. Me personally, I might try the synthetic anyways and keep an eye out for leaks or burning oil and if I notice those, switch back to conventional, ASAP. You might even need to use some AT-205 Reseal or a high mileage oil (which includes conditioners like that to swell the seals.) | |||||
| Synthetic oil | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | Fsuemt | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2019 Nissan Rogue. I use Mobile 1 synthetic oil and have it changed every 5,000 miles. My mechanic has another synthetic oil that he gets in bulk and it costs $20 less per oil change. Is Mobile 1 really the best? And is it $20 better than other synthetics? | |||||
| RE: Conventional oil vs synthetic | 21Relevance | 6 years ago | Niznomore | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| @cjbman Like Scotty I'm cheap also. Costco has two 1 gallon jugs of full synthetic oil for $27. Walmart has their brand of conventional oil one gallon for $16. My brother says something about gaskets being too old and the synthetic would cause leaking. What's so good about high mileage oil anyway? | |||||
| 2014 Subaru Forester Upper Oil Pan Leak, "Lifetime" CVT Oil, and CV Joints | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | Breakdown | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| NHSTA issued service bulletin 02-166-17R outlining the issue and subsequent design changes. Don't know what that means for us at this point. We are at 93K. The warranty extension for the oil consumption issue may not cover this, as that was caused by poorly engineered piston rings, if memory serves. What this event tells me is that no one should buy a Subaru, unless they have money to burn. To "fix" this leaking upper engine oil pan, the entire engine has to be removed, and cam and valve covers are also resealed at this opportunity. It is $3,000 dollars for a leaking oil pan sealed with silicone, rather than a gasket, because the machines assembling Subaru engines can manage a bead of silicone, but not placing a physical fiber gasket. If I had not caught the dealer over-filling the oil for the consumption test a few years back, that would have ran $5,000 once the regular warranty expired. As it happened, I caught them, and made them remove the excess oil, that the car failed the consumption test and repairs were made under warranty. That was just below 30K miles. The lower oil pan seal failed around 60K miles, and was $500 or so in repairs. This upper oil pan is another level, entirely. Everyone's so focused on the oil consumption issue, and how Subaru has "resolved" it, that no attention is being paid to these critical oil leaks, which can be financially devastating. Scotty has mentioned the oil consumption, and given a nod to Subaru for fixing it, but never mentioned these oil pan leaks, which seem to be extremely common. My Subaru technician suggested just keeping an eye on the oil level, and adding as necessary, because of the cost and age of the vehicle. We aren't seeing low oil level warnings between changes, which we are always punctual about. I may take it to an independent shop, to check for the possibility that the leak is from the valve covers, which may loosen over time (the dealer technician didn't mention this happening). He could not tell me if the repairs would entail additional machining or replacement of existing parts with new designs. I cannot justify dropping $3,000 if this could start leaking again in another year or two. As an aside, I had the CVT oil replaced, because of Scotty's videos, explaining the "lifetime" CVT oil shenanigans. But it was not just the CVT oil, but also the differentials that were serviced, too, pumping that part of our bill to $560. I've never had a regular transmission service cost anything like that before! Do the differentials need to be serviced at the same time, or was it bill padding? By the way, at 30K, another dealer tech did tell me CVT oil did not need to be replaced, because it was "good for the life of the transmission." I believed that for years. The CV joints go out on these things around 100K miles, costing $1,100 at a dealer. Are there after market parts available for less, or are these Subaru exclusive? If you made it this far, thanks for reading! {black}:cool: | |||||
| How do I change my oil | 21Relevance | 3 years ago | Flipper | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... owns a vehicle. Moreover, you're entertaining and a straight shooter - thank you! I have never worked on an automobile before which gives me reason to pause; I don't want to damage the vehicle. I've watched a couple of videos on changing a 2023 CRV hybrid and it appears straight forward for the most part. One guy recommends changing the fully synthetic oil for the first time at around 5,000 miles or sooner; he also recommends using only Honda OEM oil and filter purchased from the dealer. Another guy claims that you'll damage the CRV if you change the oi ... | |||||
| Answer to: No more conventional motor oil? | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | DanL | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| OW-20 engine oils typically have some sort of synthetic base oil to stay in grade at operating temp, and still be categorised as a 0W. Most modern low viscosity multigrade oil will be marketed as a synthetic blend or as fully synthetic, because the stricter requirements in ILSAC oil specs may not be met with a conventional/mineral base oil. I would have used an engine oil according to the car's user manual. The 2010 Toyota Corolla gasoline engine asks for a 0W-20 or 0W-30 which has the ILSAC API Certified starburst mark. A Pennzoil Gold or Platinum seems to ... | |||||
| No more conventional motor oil? | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | ToyotaDave | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2010 corolla with 200,000 miles with zero issues, it uses no oil and has no leaks, i change the oil every 5,000 miles with pennzoil 5w-20 conventional oil. I went to walmart to buy more and they no longer sell conventional oil!! Now it's called synthetic blend or full synthetic. In one of your older videos you suggest to not use synthetic in a older car as it can cause a leak or to use more oil. Looking for some advice. | |||||
| RE: Semi synthetic to full synthetic | 21Relevance | 6 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| That's right it has better lubricating properties. The biggest benefit of synthetic oil is that it maintains ideal viscosity over a wider range of temperatures. So when you start your vehicle cold in the morning , the oil moves quicker to coat the engine parts. And when the engine gets hotter, it maintains its film strength. It also stable over a longer period of time, which is why we can use longer change intervals. | |||||
| 07 Avalon will not hold oil while driving | 21Relevance | 4 years ago | Finer_Things | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey Scotty my 07 Avalon has 202k miles on it. It has run totally fine just as it should since I got it with 192k miles. I changed my oil and filter today and did it as I usually do, and filled it until it was full at the dipstick. I did use the 0W-30 full synthetic oil as I always have for it. No problem. I drove it from the driveway into my garage after I finished changing it and left it there awhile with no oil leaks. I later drove it and got on the interstate and drove about 5 miles. The check engine light came on and the oil pressure light so I pulled ov ... | |||||
| what engine oil should I use | 21Relevance | 4 years ago | NorthLasVegasRick | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I hope this question makes it to Scotty Kilmer.. I have 2 slightly high mileage 2005 Corollas (91K & 143K)... I have been using "blend" oil but since "full" is reasonably priced especially Valvoline, should I go ahead and switch to full synthetic "high mileage"? Any and all opinions appreciated... Thanks! P.S. I actually switched to full synthetic on the 91K Corolla not long ago but I hardly drive it... I was also told to buy a Mobil 1 filter which I did because the synthetic will do a bit of cleaning like a detergent oil would so a good filter is nee ... | |||||
| 2012 GMC Sierra Low Oil Light | 21Relevance | 4 years ago | Denied012 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I bought this vehicle in September of 2020 from my local bergstrom dealership. It is a 2012 GMC Sierra 1500, with 148000 miles, 6 speed automatic transmission, 5.3 engine with active fuel management. Three months after I bought it the check engine light came on with code P0521. I brought it to my dealer since it was still under warranty and they replaced the oil pressure sensor and the screen with it. At this time they also told me that I had oil sludge, but as long as I did frequent oil changes it would go away. So for the last year I have been driving it and every time the engine light came on with the same code, My dealer would do an oil change. Four weeks ago the light came on and I could not get to my dealer so I did it myself with the oil recommended in my manual. The engine light went off. A week after that oil change I was doing 55 and my oil pressure started to drop from 40 all the way down to around 15, and the "Stop engine, oil pressure low" message came on with the oil light. I stopped the engine. I checked my oil and it was where it was supposed to be so being close to home, I drove it carefully home. I had it towed into the dealer the next day, And they told me that the technician did an oil change and noticed metal shavings on his glove. However, They did not save the oil, the oil filter, or the glove. And did not take any pictures of anything. They then recommended me an engine replacement. I said that they should cover the replacement and they told me they would call back with quotes. They never did. After being avoided and sent to voicemail I went in there and they told me that they did an oil change, And drove the truck for 45 minutes and could not replicate my issue, and they now recommend that I drive the truck for 500 miles and come back for a check up. They also told me that my oil pan gasket, oil cooling lines, transmission cooling lines, and power steering lines are leaking, although I've never seen it leak anything, and it parks in a heated garage. When I asked them why my oil pressure was low they could not tell me. So my question is, What would cause the oil pressure to drop while driving like that? Since my dealer cannot seem to tell me. I have also scheduled the 500 mile checkup as I am nearing that milage. Thank you in advance | |||||
| RE: The ultimate Toyota conventional or synthetic shoot out | 21Relevance | 1 year ago | Oskool | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| @hixster Those are interesting test results! The low cost synthetic oil out performed the name brand conventional oil in every test. Another benefit of synthetic oil is it flows better during cold starts than conventional oil. | |||||