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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| RE: 2010 Honda Fit Sport CVT with 55K miles and check engine light code P0847 | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | Figmund Sreud | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Great! This will solve your problem. Btw, … get a replacement washer, … and be quick as you pull faulty switch and replacing it with a new one. atf will be draining, … but if you do it quick it should be no more than a cup. Also, if you never changed atf, this may be time? You need about three (3) litres of Honda atf. Best, F.S. | |||||
| Answer to: E-CVT transmissions and oil change intervals | 16Relevance | 4 years ago | Dan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... miles - it will prolong the life of the engine. As far as reliability, the RAV4 is miles ahead. In the general, the race between Toyota and Honda isn't as close as it used to be - Honda has fallen behind. Honda's CVTs are on the weak side, usually lasting 125k-150k miles with regular service. So far the exact reliability statistics are unknown, but as soon as the CVT begins to jerk - it fails really fast. And it begins to jerk either because of bad software, or usually because of infrequent oil changes. Oil changes should be done every 25k miles at ... | |||||
| Answer to: 2009 Honda Fit - Transmission Cooler Line Leak | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | Figmund Sreud | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... of metal tubing. There are eight (8) spring loaded clamps that fasten all that to corresponding metal connections. I would carefully check those clamps for proper installation, first. Check if any connection is actually leaking. Look for cracks developing at the end of each hose. Most likely, if there is leak, it’s that’s where it is. If any part of all that needs replacing, … atf from the transmission should be drained first, … than refilled properly after repairs. Are you up to such task? Anyway, … as to the estimate the mechanic is giving you? It’s on ... | |||||
| Answer to: Power Steering Fluid or ATF? Owner Manual says ATF... | 16Relevance | 4 years ago | SAL R | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Out of curiosity, I called the dealership this morning where I bought my FJ. I also buy the Toyota brand atf I use to drain/fill all 5 of my Toyotas from them. I asked the guy I know at the parts counter what they use and he told me, "We go to the auto parts store where our account is and just buy a few cases of power steering fluid." | |||||
| Answer to: Power Steering Fluid or ATF? Owner Manual says ATF... | 16Relevance | 4 years ago | toyotagrl | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It may just be that there's no red dye in the atf fluid that they (Toyota) use in the power steering system. | |||||
| Answer to: Power Steering Fluid or ATF? Owner Manual says ATF... | 16Relevance | 4 years ago | toyotagrl | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Some manufacturers do use atf in their power steering systems. Look in the owner's manual and find the PS fluid part number and go to your local 'yota dealer or online and buy some. | |||||
| Answer to: Power Steering Fluid or ATF? Owner Manual says ATF... | 16Relevance | 4 years ago | SAL R | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Thanks, guys. Like any factory, Toyota in Japan probably did use a cheap PS fluid. The fluid from the factory is that gold/tan-ish clear. No pink or red atf color ever. Who even knows if it was a synthetic type. I really doubt that. I'll be looking for some that is of the "clear", not red, variety that has a name brand. | |||||
| 2002 Sienna CE - high idle at start up | 16Relevance | 12 months ago | rikdez | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello, Forum I have a 2002 Toyota Sienna CE with 143,000 miles. Auto Transmission Had it for about 5 months now. (sale price was 1800 bucks) Always starts up. Doesn't shake. Runs and drives. Passed smog. But, it ALWAYS idles really high at start up if the vehicle has been sitting for more than an hour. Hot or cold rain or shine. I don't remember if it was like this when I bought it, so it appears to have started about 2 months ago. Also shifts hard into R from P and from D to P. Additionally, cold or hot the atf fluid is all the way up to the hot hashmarks of the dipstick, but there aren't any leaks in the tranny. (I might have to send in some pics on this one, b/c there's always the chance that I might be "dipstick illiterate" on this particular model) The power steering rack has a slow but noticeable leak on the passenger side bellows. The vehicle also makes a faint but noticeable whirring noise while driving, as the RPM's climb. (the whirring noise sounds like a person inhaled helium and is softly saying the word "WEEEE" out their nose, almost like a high pitched Kazoo type sound) Seems to be coming from the area of the power steering pump, low passenger side, right next to the leaking bellows. While driving, I seem to hear it most with the driver's widow rolled down and I'm in the fast lane next to one of those traffic dividing center islands, although if another car is right beside me, I can hear it as well. If there's nothing on either side, I can't really hear it that much without getting out of the car, vehicle idling in P, and putting my ear next to the passenger side wheel well. It's not throwing a check engine light, however, the BRAKE light on the dash never switches off and the ABS and tire inflation lights remain illuminated. There's also a high pitched rhythmic humming sound like a WIRMP WIRMP WIRMP noise that gets faster as the vehicle's speed increases (noticeably different from the kazoo sound) when the vehicle gets past 10 MPH up to about 40 MPH. The noise gets louder on a left hand turn, and at freeway speeds is practically inaudible. Appears to be coming from the passenger side front. Because of the ABS and other lights illuminated and the passenger side rack leak, it seems to me that the humming sound is coming from the passenger side wheel bearing, so I'm interested in finding out if there's a inexpensive way to be sure that it's that, so I don't start replacing parts willy nilly. That said, I've never had a vehicle that idles so high at start up, and was wondering if that's what's causing it to shift hard. I tried the Toyota approved "resetting the idle". technique, but haven't had any luck in getting the idle to be like a normal car that idles at about 1500 RPM at start up. The vehicle doesn't have a tachometer, but if I had to guess I'd say mine goes to about 3000 RPM and takes at least five minutes to calm down to about 2000, but then I put it into R from P and P to D it goes in with a noticeable clunk hard shift. But, once the idle comes down it'll shift a bit smoother sometimes but not always. Plus sometimes, the longer I drive it, it'll start hard shifting between 2nd to 3rd gears. Lastly, every time I turn the key to the on position, after a couple of seconds, there's a low pitched BIRMP sound that comes from the engine compartment. I'm used to such noises coming from the fuel pump. Is there some sort of secondary fuel pump, or is that noise an indication that a part related to the fuel system is failing? Could an overfilled A/T transmission cause the shifting issues without leaking? should I replace the atf? (I have no idea if or when the previous owner did or didn't) Would disconnecting the negative battery cable help bring down the high idle? Is there any danger in just replacing the atf without changing the filter? | |||||
| Answer to: Should I change my transmission fluid? | 16Relevance | 4 months ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You're saying your car uses atf but has a manual transmission? Obviously if you have a manual transmission its lube can be changed at any time, using the lubricant specified by the manufacturer. For automatic transmission fluid changes see the FAQ. Also for future reference please use the title line of your topic for a short description and the details of your question in the body of your post. Thank you. (Title edited.) | |||||
| Answer to: Power Steering Fluid or ATF? Owner Manual says ATF... | 16Relevance | 4 years ago | Doc | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I am quite sure the manufacturer used the cheapest atf in the power steering they could buy. | |||||
| Ws atf /valvoline max life atf | 16Relevance | 4 years ago | rashbaugh@buchus.com | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2011Venza recommended atf is ToyotaWS. Can you use valvoline max life as a cheaper substitute? | |||||
| RE: Should I change my ATF | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | yaser | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi, You are low on fluid and high on the miles. The color seems to be off and since you don't know when it was changed, you better be on the safe side and leave it alone. I should mention that this is my personal opinion and at the end of the day, it is your call to follow or not. For the level, you should have a dipstick under the hood that you can check the atf level. | |||||
| 722.6 Mind boggling limp mode woes | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | GrizzzlyGoat | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| (I have put this on specified MB forums, but if you are not familiar with the 722.6 transmission or MB, scroll down to the summary) Apologies for the long post but detail is required. Good afternoon beautiful people of the forums. I recently purchased a 2000 S500 with 150k miles. I went into the purchase knowing that the transmission had problems. The car would be in limp mode unless it was warm, then it would shift perfectly. I also noticed the torque converter shuttered in any gear in higher RPM, but that wasn't too concerning to me because I knew the fluid needed to be changed. Another note is that the dipstick tube cap was missing, which I later found at the bottom of the plastic covers on the bottom of the car. These transmission issues were not tripping a check engine light or any OBD codes. Fast forward to when we start working on the car, the first thing we did was unplug the pilot bushing/ 13 pin electrical connector to the conductor plate. To my pleasure (at the time at least) it was soaked with oil. We cleaned the connections and replaced it with an OEM Mercedes Electrical Socket. We tried the previous procedure of warming up the car and driving it, but it was stuck in limp mode, which was strange. Why would it get worse with a new pilot bushing? To try to resolve the torque converter shutter, we drained oil out of the transmission pan plug (did not remove pan) which dropped about 3 quarts. We filled up what came out with Valvoline Maxlife atf and double checked with our transmission dipstick. After the car was warm after checking the fluid level, the car shifted, Hooray! Drove well and the shudder was slightly improving. (Note: The old oil (the stuff we drained out) was very thick and looked more like motor oil than transmission fluid, but there were no metal pieces at all.) The next morning comes around, it starts in limp mode, which is still a little bit confusing, but I was expecting it to at least start working when warm. Which didn't happen. This left me very confused, but we repeated the process of drain and fill again a day later. The exact same thing happens. Drain 3 quarts out, put the same back in. Car works for the night, then next morning, it doesn't want to get out of limp mode, again. I purchased an iCarsoft MB V2 to read the codes of the TCM and ESM. The TCM only had codes 034 and 130. The ESM had P1856. Which I thought were all related to the gear lever being stuck when trying to shift back to park from N or D. I tried to clear the codes and see if it would fix it, nope. Still stuck in limp mode. I tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. Nope, still the same outcome, limp mode. I then located and removed the TCM to inspect it for oil. There was only a tiny bit of oil on the prongs of the TCM. Nothing crazy like other people having like a quarter of a liter pour out of the damn thing. Just a sliver of oil on the prongs.. I sprayed it multiple times with electrical cleaner and put it back in. Alas, limp mode again. (NOTE: When I shook the TCM I heard a very slight and subtle rattle. I have a few other 722.6 TCMs for my other Mercs but I haven't checked if they make similar noises yet.) We measured the oil level again but with the accuracy of the iCarsoft temperature reading. Which was on the minimum reading, so we added a little bit more oil, but of course, limp mode again. I noticed in the last test drive the trans was whining or humming a little bit, so I knew we had to change the filter. Next day comes (last night) and we drain the trans oil from the pan and replaced the filter. We get about 4 & 3/4 quart of oil out. All replaced with Valvoline Maxlife atf. I noticed the color was slowly improving, but was still dark. I put the pan back together and started the car. Of course in limp mode, but it worked after it warmed up, just like the last two times we drained the fluid. But I noticed that after I let the car rest, It was still working. I knew this because of the shift position indicator next to the clock. It would only appear if it wasn't in limp mode and it was relaying the correct information when I changed gears and shift modes. It still worked even 4 hours after of me driving it, which I found miraculous, so I was hopeful that the dreaded limp mode would be gone. This morning, I try to drive the car just like I do every time a day after a trans oil change. It refuses to leave limp mode. I drive it, shift it through P R N D ( with having to turn off the car to get back to P and R). Still stuck. I check the temperature of the oil with my computer and it is most definitely warm. I thought fixing this limp mode would be easy peazy after all the knowledge and experiences we have had on our W163, but here I am crawling back to the forums again. Here are some notes that I want to make sure are clear. Summary I have a 722.6 dipstick that I measured with accurately with the aid of the iCarsoft temperature reading while reading the TCM data. The iCarsoft would pull codes 034 and 130 (Historic for both) from the TCM and P1856 (Active) for the ESM. I cleared both modules, but when I read the codes they are still there. When I try to reclear them it "clears" it quickly, but when I go back to read them, they are still there. Each time we changed the fluid (in the nighttime) the car would shift and work fine that night, progressively improving how fast it would get out of limp mode. But in the next morning when I try to drive the car again, it will not get out of limp mode no matter what I try to do. It did exactly this each of the three times we changed the fluid. This morning after the third fluid change when we turned on the car, I saw the gear selector indicator on the instrument cluster, but it only worked for a second. When I would restart the car it would not appear again. The transmission whine/hum was gone after changing the filter. The shudder still exists but is progressively improving with more fluid changes. When I was shaking and tapping the old transmission filter, some metal shavings came out, but nothing out of the normal. I cleaned and put the dipstick cover back on after the first change (without the O-ring because it doesn't fit anymore). Something extremely fascinating is that when the car is in limp mode, the Pneumatic soft close doors and trunk do NOT work. When the car was out of limp mode, it worked perfectly. How in the hell are these two systems related to each other?? Other problems with the car that aren't directly related are that the B1S1 Oxygen sensor needs replacing because of a heater circuit, the driver front strut needs replacing, (sinks after about 8-12 hours.) then the entire car sinks to the ground (36-48 hours) which I am assuming is an airmatic valve body. Lastly, the blower does not work at all. I do not suspect any of these things to be the cause of the limp mode, but with what I saw with the pneumatic doors and trunk, I am leaving nothing off of the table. What could be causing the car to only work when warm? Or in my case now, not at all? I noticed there is some play in the mechanical movements of the shifter, so I would assume it would need a shift bushing. I ran into this same issue on my W163 but the shift linkage system looks different and might call for a different bushing, but that doesn't explain why it previously only worked when warm. I would assume that there would be a problem with the shift module, but again, how did it work when it was warm, I would assume that temperature wouldn't mess with the shifter at all. It doesn't look like anything was spilled in there either, it still has the cover which is clean. It almost seems as if this car only wants to work in the nightime or something. Im gonna try later to see if it will magically work, but I have lost hope and I am genuinely lost and confused now. Its like this car has some sort of demon that wants to haunt me lol. Please don't hesitate to ask me any questions and I thank you in advance. | |||||
| Answer to: ATF filter change required?? | 16Relevance | 5 years ago | yaser | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I would change the filter too if you change the atf fluid. | |||||
| 04 elantra ATF drain | 16Relevance | 1 year ago | Ireland | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have an 2004 Hyundai Elantra GLS that i purchased new. It just turned 24,000 miles. Again, that's 24,000 miles. It has an automatic transmission with no problems. I'm thinking of draining the atf from the drain pan from the drain screw and replacing it with new atf. This would be the first time i would be doing this. Now, if the car had 100,000 miles or so I would not consider doing this, but since it has such low miles but 21 years old I'm just not sure. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks. | |||||