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Search result for: liquid piston
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Black liquid from exhaust | 28Relevance | 5 years ago | RunningMan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I found some black liquid from the exhaust on my 2016 VW Jetta 1.4T after driving to Kroger located 0.5 miles out. Here is a little background, since my wife got a 2020 Corolla LE in June, I've been in love with that car and been driving it to work every day. I still have my VW because of my new work schedule starting late August and makes us need to have 2 cars. I have only been driving that VW once a week for less than 2 miles each time since we got the Corolla. The VW Jetta has 141k miles, haven't done the timing belt since VW recommends replacing it at ... | |||||
| Strange fizzing sound then liquid dripping from glove box | 28Relevance | 5 years ago | Hyundaihatchback | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... was a fizzing/boiling over sound coming from the glovebox area followed by a clear liquid leaking from under glove box (although inside of glove box remains dry)and this phenomena only occurs when I am making a left turn. And today around 4pm I first experienced it. I have not looked inside the engine yet. I am wondering if it is a coolant/radiator problem, an AC hose leak, or a leak happening due to a drain clog from the outside dash above engine that collects outside leaves and water off of front windshield. I saw one of your videos on YouTube and figured ... | |||||
| Help in looking at the internals of a cylinder of a 4Runner's 1GR-FE engine | 21Relevance | 4 years ago | FutureSoCalEscapee | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 83k. Looks scary bad to me. I have a warranty and, if this cylinder is considered "toast," I'll press for a painful refund because I don't think they'll disassemble the engine for new pistons/piston rings (if salvageable). The piston is up high, I can only imagine what things would be like if it were low. The only reason I went ahead with the purchase was the warranty and larger dealership backing. I gotta move now to have them fix it or should I forget it. If you comment, please state your experience (mechanic, you've seen this before, you're guessing, etc.). I know Scotty lurks in these halls, but I'm not counting on a comment from the master 🙂 Cylinder 5 scope side view 2014 Toyota 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE engine) at 83k miles VIDEO 00007 Cylinder 5 scope side view 2014 Toyota 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE engine) at 83... 1GR-FE / 2014 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Cylinder 5 side view 2 (valves) 83k miles VIDEO 00009 1GR-FE / 2014 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Cylinder 5 side view 2 (valves) 83k mil... 1GR-FE / 2014 Toyota 4Runner top of piston in cylinder 5 VIDEO 00008 1GR-FE / 2014 Toyota 4Runner top of piston in cylinder 5 VIDEO 00008 | |||||
| Answer to: Sticking brake caliper | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | DanL | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| If your calipers are sticking, you will feel it when touching the rotors after driving. Sometimes the caliper piston sticks because when putting on new pads, the piston is pressed further into the cylinder. If the piston was rusty on the upper part, the rusty part will now stick in the cylinder. Can be fixed by replacing the piston and honing the cyl, but the safest is then to replace the whole caliper. | |||||
| Answer to: what is the most reliable engine | 21Relevance | 6 years ago | heyinway | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 4.0 in a Jeep. Good for 150,000 miles, then overhaul before it needs rod and main bearings. Don't miss a shift...the shock will break a piston skirt and crack the piston up to the piston rings. Will show good compression, but engine will have a, below the head, loud knock. Usually the 2nd piston from the firewall. Keep up with oil changes. It uses hydraulic lifters and they will sludge and fail to maintain pressure on pushrods resulting in valve train wear...tick tick tick. | |||||
| Answer to: 2025 Toyota Camry uses 0W-8 | 27Relevance | 2 years ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Mechanical engineers generally know what they're doing as far as lubricating engines. pistons rings aren't nearly as stiff as they used to be. piston rings scrape the walls of the cylinders, and the rings easily break down oil if you use too thin of an oil. When they're not stiff, like modern engines, you can use lighter oil. I have a piston from a 2010 Dodge Journey, and I can easily squeeze the piston rings with my hand. I also have a 1979 Pontiac that requires heavy oil (10W-30 or higher). Those piston rings are really stiff. Engineers lessened the tension on the piston rings to get maximum fuel economy. Minimum tension =better fuel economy, but you get a lot more blow-by. | |||||
| Answer to: Brakes | 27Relevance | 5 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I think you may find the issue at the proportioning valve. It sounds like its pressure differential piston is getting pushed to the rear and closing off the rear brake outlet. Easy enough to test the theory. Loosen the Rear Brake Inlet line going into it and step on the brake pedal. Brake fluid should squirt out so you know the valve is getting brake fluid from the master cylinder's rear brakes reservoir. Tighten that back up and do the same to the Rear Brake Outlet line on the valve. See if there's brake fluid squirting out of there when you step on the brake pedal. If there isn't, you have to recenter the pressure differential piston inside of the proportioning valve body. There's plenty of stuff on the internet on how to do that. Once you get it centered, you may want to buy a proportioning valve bleeder tool. You remove the warning switch and install the tool while bleeding the brakes. The warning switch has a spring loaded pintle that sits in the groove of the differential piston. When the piston moves the pintle gets pushed up (and the brake warning light turns on). The tool is rigid. It sits in the groove and doesn't allow the piston to move off center. When you're done bleeding the brakes you remove the tool and screw the brake warning switch back in. | |||||
| Answer to: How to know faulty part in engine? | 27Relevance | 5 years ago | Razmig Bartassian | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| There are multiple ways to check for shot piston rings and head gasket. They sell a block tester that you stick on the coolant reservoir or radiator that has a fluid filled inside. If the color in the tube changes, then it means the head/block is damaged. You can also do a wet and dry compression test to test your piston rings, valves, and head as well. If the wet compression test does better than the dry test, then it means the piston rings are worn out (the oil provides a seal around the worn rings yielding better compression). A leak-down test on each cylinder is probably the best of all since it will show signs of what exactly is worn out. Air bubbles coming out of the coolant reservoir means the head or block is blown, air hissing out of the oil cap means the piston rings are worn, air hissing out of the intake means the intake valves have a problem, etc. Ask the mechanic what tests they conducted to conclude the piston rings and head gasket need replacing. | |||||
| Answer to: 2005 Ford Explorer reverse isn’t working... | 27Relevance | 5 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I wouldn't write it off yet. Definitely have the transmission codes pulled. It may be trying to tell you what's wrong. There are a couple of causes which are more common than others for losing reverse on those Explorer 5R55 transmissions . One would be catastrophic in the case of your 16 year old Explorer. The transmission has to be removed to repair it and the cost of removing the trans and doing the repair is about the same as having your transmission rebuilt. That would be the the reverse band being broken. (#024 in the diagram). But that's a pretty "beefy" part and wouldn't be the 1st suspect on my list. Another possibility is the Reverse Servo Assembly piston & O ring. (Parts #912 & 363) They can be removed and repaired by just dropping the transmission pan, removing the 6 bolts holding the RSA in, and replacing the piston and the O ring. The reverse servo assembly has a piston with a molded seal and an O ring in the unit. If the piston seal fails you can't get enough pressure to operate the reverse clutch band. The price for a Ford OEM Reverse Servo piston is about $24. Like I said, maybe do some research. A | |||||
| RE: Liquid Dripping from Front Center of Car | 21Relevance | 4 years ago | Engineer2002 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| It was a clear color and thin, not a thick liquid. Coolant is pink or blue, steering fluid is yellow, transmission fluid is amber or brown, oil is brown or black, brake fluid is yellow, and no fuel smell. I put a piece of cardboard under the car to check further. | |||||
| Liquid Dripping from Front Center of Car | 21Relevance | 4 years ago | Engineer2002 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have an automatic transmission 2014 Honda Civic LX with 243000 miles. I noticed a liquid drop from the underside of the car on the front center. It was clear. I have not used the car for 18 hours. Could this still be condensation? We had condensation on the car from moisture this morning, but the outside of the car appears dry. Thanks. | |||||
| Answer to: Unknown liquid dripping underneath | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | Just Lofi | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Did you have the A/C running? The culprit of that clear liquid (I'm assuming odorless) is most likely from your A/C system just dripping water | |||||
| Answer to: Unknown liquid dripping underneath | 21Relevance | 5 years ago | 7.3PunchInA3.4 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You can link photos with an image hosting site like imgur. Is it A/C condensation? That would be my guess. Coolant would be a dark color and obviously oil/transmission/steering fluid would be oily Washer fluid would also be something to check, especially if you filled it with pure water before and it froze. I would fill the reservoir in the evening, mark the liquid level, and check it in the morning to find out if it is the washer fluid.But it sounds to me like condensation. Nothing to worry about. | |||||
| Answer to: '06 Mazdaspeed 6 Power Loss, Sputtery feel in Acceleration | 27Relevance | 5 years ago | Razmig Bartassian | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| @joshhuckOk so here is what I gathered from the freeze frame data: Everything looks pretty normal, but there are a few issues I noticed. From the STFT being -5.5%, it looks like the engine is running slightly rich but it's within the normal range. The spark advance and manifold absolute pressure seem a bit off. This data was captured while the engine was under load, so a spark advance of 12 degrees seems too little for when the engine is revving at 3664 rpm. The spark advance should get higher the faster the engine revs to accommodate for the faster combustion process. So if the spark plug fires too late in the combustion cycle, it can result in really low power or even cause a misfire depending on how close the piston gets to bottom dead center (the lower the piston gets -> the less compression -> less chance of air-fuel ignition). You make the most power when the air-fuel mixture ignites when the piston is at top dead center (the higher the piston -> the more force put on the piston when travelling downward -> more torque). I'm wondering if the VVT work is related to this spark advance. How soon after the VVT work did this misfire issue first occur? Next is the manifold absolute pressure. According to the scan tool, the ambient air pressure was 30 inHg (14.73 psi), but the MAP was reporting 31 inHg (15.22 psi). Again, your engine is under load and at a speed of 3664 rpm, so the turbo should be "boosting" the engine. 31 inHg is hardly any turbo boost compared to what the ambient air pressure is. In other words the turbo was boosting the engine by only 1 inHg (0.49 psi). There should be AT LEAST 3-4 psi of boost at those engine speeds. Can you hear your turbo spooling when you rev the engine? See if your wastegate control arm at the back of the turbo moves in and out when someone else revs the engine. The low boost could be a reason why the ECU is subtracting fuel as seen by the STFT. It could be that the turbo is struggling to build boost while you accelerate, but then it fixes itself. As supplementary questions, what octane gas are you running? And what oil are you running in your engine (brand, viscosity, API rating, etc.)? Look into doing a compression test so that we can eliminate the worst case scenario, and look into doing some detective work on whether the turbo is working properly (bypass valve maybe stuck open, wastegate not actuating, etc.). If you remove the hose off the bypass valve, you should be able to see if the valve inside is working when you rev the engine. Good luck and let us know what happens next. I'll give you a link to one of my posts that talks about turbocharger diagnosing. | |||||
| RE: Should i top off coolant or do a flush? | 23Relevance | 1 year ago | Justin Shepherd | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... hasn't opened up yet, it bypasses the radiator and goes back into the block in a "shorter" circuit. There would almost be a vacuum if it sucked all of the coolant out of the lower radiator hose and the t-stat were watertight. I couldn't remember if the coolant expanded significantly while still liquid, or not. I was kinda reaching the end of my easily disposable knowledge (I woke up like 20 minutes before replying). I kinda didn't realize until your response that the hot liquid's expansion is quite significant. Hot liquid+the same space=higher pressure. ... | |||||