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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Help in looking at the internals of a cylinder of a 4Runner's 1GR-FE engine | 68Relevance | 5 years ago | FutureSoCalEscapee | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 83k. Looks scary bad to me. I have a warranty and, if this cylinder is considered "toast," I'll press for a painful refund because I don't think they'll disassemble the engine for new pistons/piston rings (if salvageable). The piston is up high, I can only imagine what things would be like if it were low. The only reason I went ahead with the purchase was the warranty and larger dealership backing. I gotta move now to have them fix it or should I forget it. If you comment, please state your experience (mechanic, you've seen this before, you're guessing, etc.). I know Scotty lurks in these halls, but I'm not counting on a comment from the master 🙂 Cylinder 5 scope side view 2014 Toyota 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE engine) at 83k miles VIDEO 00007 Cylinder 5 scope side view 2014 Toyota 4Runner SR5 (1GR-FE engine) at 83... 1GR-FE / 2014 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Cylinder 5 side view 2 (valves) 83k miles VIDEO 00009 1GR-FE / 2014 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Cylinder 5 side view 2 (valves) 83k mil... 1GR-FE / 2014 Toyota 4Runner top of piston in cylinder 5 VIDEO 00008 1GR-FE / 2014 Toyota 4Runner top of piston in cylinder 5 VIDEO 00008 | |||||
| Answer to: Transmission malfunctions when cold | 62Relevance | 5 years ago | geriscan | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Bad mounts are bad news for the engine and transmission. That kind of jarring, over time, can damage both components. As for the fluid exchange: The exchange sounds like it was a "drop the pan" and "drain and fill" rather than a flush. So, apparently you did the right thing, in that regard. Tranny flushes, on the other hand, are "bad, bad, bad." Question: Was the ATF fluid replaced with OEM fluid? Here's the link to the Mazda page, on recommended ATF type for your vehicle: __ Most notably, it says the following (their caps) __ ALWAYS BE SURE TO USE THE CORRECT AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID WHEN REPLACING ATF. USING THE WRONG ATF MAY CAUSE SHIFT QUALITY COMPLAINTS OR MAY EVEN DAMAGE THE TRANSMISSION.NOTE: ATF M-V (TYPE M5) IS NOT THE SAME FLUID AS MERCON®V OR MERCON®LV . . . USING ATF OTHER THAN ATF M-V (TYPE M5) IN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS DESIGNED TO USE ATF M-V (TYPE M5) MAY CAUSE SHIFT QUALITY COMPLAINTS. USING ANY OTHER ATF OTHER THAN THE SPECIFIED ATF IN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS MAY CAUSE TRANSMISSION DAMAGE. USING A GENERIC, MULTI-PURPOSE OR UNIVERSAL ATF MAY CAUSE TRANSMISSION DAMAGE. __ So, what kind of ATF fluid did you use? I'd start there. | |||||
| Answer to: Cheap Dash Cam Alternative | 58Relevance | 6 years ago | Mark 13 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have one in my car and one in my truck. One is a Pruveeo F5, I've had it for a few years and it has done a great job, not sure about the other one. Regardless of what you get, you might want to check a few things: - See if you have a 12V socket that only comes on when you start the vehicle (My F150 only had 'always on' 12V so I had to wire another outlet into the fusebox). It may not be a big deal on some cameras, but the cameras I have will run all the time if on a full time power socket and will drain the battery. - Check the description for whatever you buy and make sure you can set it to automatically start recording when it gets power from the 12V, or that it has some sort of 'smart' feature that detects when you turn the vehicle on so it knows to start recording. - Check the cord length in the description to make sure you have enough cord to hide behind trim, around the top of the windshield and to wherever your 12V outlet is located. - Check the maximum micro SD card size it will handle and get a card that size, preferably a brand name card like SanDisk, Sony, etc. unless it calls for a specific card or comes with one. - Make sure it 'loop records'.....in other words once the card fills up it starts overwriting the oldest video. - If you want to get vids onto your phone easily, make sure it has some sort of Wifi connectivity and a phone app where you can pull the vids without taking out the SD card. - Other things to check: video quality, night vision, recording options, sound options, etc.... That is all I can think of....I went through some really crappy cameras early on before I found some that actually worked like I wanted. | |||||
| Answer to: Which Scan Tool Should I Get? | 56Relevance | 4 years ago | Whatchamacallit | How-to | |
| $500-$1,000 Scan tools in this price range do everything the sub-$500 tools can do but also start incorporating bi-directional capability. They tend to all be touchscreen tablet based and have more memory, storage, and processing power and consequently a little faster than the cheaper scan tools. However, free lifetime software updates are no longer offered. Most manufacturers usually offer one year of free software updates, and beyond that you have to pay a yearly fee to keep it up to date. Generally, the more expensive the tool the more expensive the yearly fees will be. HOWEVER, EVEN IF YOU DON'T UPGRADE AND PAY THE YEARLY FEE YOU CAN STILL USE THE TOOL: You just won’t get the latest updates which includes bug fixes and sometimes unlocks more features and capability for certain manufacturer’s vehicles; and of course you won’t be able to connect to all the new model year cars. The $700 Innova 7111 - now reduced in price on their amazon direct store to $600 - is a tablet scan tool for those that like bigger screens and being able to scroll/read better. This tool allows for both tethered (cable) and Bluetooth connection (kind of convenient if you are road testing and don’t want a cable dangling over your leg). Link to tool: Services/Features for your vehicle (coverage) see below: Pros: Does everything as the Innova 5610 + bigger screen size + faster processor and more memory + wireless capability (no need for cable); Free lifetime software updates (like all Innova products); Distributed from facilities in the U.S. and Canada, all Innova products are researched, developed and designed at the company’s headquarters in Irvine, California (so you are not dealing with a Chinese company); Now available at autoparts chain stores such as AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Canadian Tire, Advance Auto Parts, Napa (both United States and Canada), Blain's Farm and Fleet, CarQuest, LordCo Auto Parts, Sears, Summit Racing Equipment, Auto Value Auto Parts Cons: Same features and coverage as the cheaper 5610, just that the 5610 is the handheld version while the 7111 is the tablet version; does not have the option to use OBDI adaptors that the 5610 does; cannot program any modules; free lifetime software updates are very few and far between Before buying from Innova, read this: Amongst bi-directional tools, when it comes to functionality for the money, it is hard to beat XTool D7 ($478), D8 ($699-$769), and A80 ($849). As a newcomer and based in China, they blow the competition out of the water in terms of features for the price point. D7 Link: Xtool's only official store is on amazon ($478) YouTube Review of D7 tool by Toyota Master Technician The Car Care Nut: D7 Pros: Does everything as the $250-$500 tools + the Unbeatable Price for its capability! + the 7.0" LCD touchscreen + based on Android operating system + faster processor and more memory + more bidirectional capabilities (including EVAP Test, Fuel Pump Test, Fuel Injector Test, Cycling A/C Clutch On/Off, Cooling Fan Test, EGR Test, Window/Door Locks, etc.) + Key Fob Programming (very rare feature for any scan tool under $1,000) + Cam/Crank Sensors Relearn, Idle Relearn, Zero-Point Calibration, Fuel Trim Reset, etc. + Works with 8+12 Cable Adapter (Package NOT Included) to support Chrysler 2018 and later vehicles + Works with CAN FD Adapter (Package NOT Included) to support for GM/GMC/Cadillac/Chevrolet/Buick Cars after 2020 + 2-year hardware warranty + 3-year free software updates (after 3-years the renewal is $99/year, which still beats the competition like Autel) D7 Cons: Cannot perform reflash/reprogram new computer/ECUs; All the features for the money sounds too good to be true - might this product overpromise but under deliver?; Tethered (tool connected to OBDII via cable); Company and entire support infrastructure based in China so any technical support or warranty claims (like sending back the hardware) will involve back and forth with staff in China; as a newcomer, it's not clear if XTools will always be around For full capability with your vehicle as well as which services and bi-directional capabilities are supported, e-mail xtoolonline@outlook.com XTool D8 Link: Xtool's only official store is on amazon (Wired version - $699) (Wireless version - $769) YouTube Review of D8 tool by Toyota Master Technician The Car Care Nut: Scotty’s D8 YouTube Review: Another Mechanic YouTube Review: D8 Pros: Does everything as the D7 + ECU coding + 8MP camera + faster processor than D7 + 2x more memory than D7 + 2.5x larger battery than D7 (longer life) + bigger screen size than D7 (8.0" vs 7.0") + Wireless connection (BlueTooth) + more bidirectional capabilities; still an Unbeatable Price for its capability!; 2-year hardware warranty + 3-year free software updates (after 3-years the renewal is $99/year, which still beats the competition like Autel) D8 Cons: Cannot perform reflash/reprogram new computer/ECUs; All the features for the money sounds too good to be true - might this product overpromise but under deliver?; Company and entire support infrastructure based in China so any technical support or warranty claims (like sending back the hardware) will involve back and forth with staff in China; as a newcomer, it's not clear if XTools will always be around For full capability with your vehicle as well as which services and bi-directional capabilities are supported, e-mail xtoolonline@outlook.com XTool A80 Link: Xtool's only official store is on amazon ($849) A80 Pros: Does everything as the D8 + comes with connector package to meet the diagnostic needs of older cars without OBD-16 port A80 Cons: All the features for the money sounds too good to be true - might this product overpromise but under deliver?; Company and entire support infrastructure based in China so any technical support or warranty claims (like sending back the hardware) will involve back and forth with staff in China; as a newcomer, it's not clear if XTools will always be around For full capability with your vehicle as well as which services and bi-directional capabilities are supported, e-mail xtoolonline@outlook.com Autel has a new full-system tablet scan tool available that slots between the MaxiCheck MX808 and the MaxiSys MS960S. It is called the MaxiCheck MX900. This tool is intended more as an upgrade to the MX808 and, for the first time, provides bi-directional capability. The price offered by one of the authorized Autel dealers is $559, which is a very fair price for an Autel tablet-style bidirectional scan tool. . Here is an overview from the manufacturer: . MaxiCheck MX900 is an 8" touchscreen, all-systems scanner and service tablet. This corded tablet can read and erase codes, view Freeze Frame, view and graph Live Data, and perform bi-directional Active Tests and Special Functions. The MX900 is also a full-featured service tablet with more than 40 service and maintenance tasks, including Brake Bleed, Oil and Service lights resets, Battery Registration, DPF Regen, and Electronic Parking Brake and Steering Angle resets. The MX900 runs on Android 11 OS and is powered by a 1.8 GHz processor. Includes one year of software updates and a limited warranty. . The Autel MaxiCheck MX900 is an updated version of the MX808. It features a longer battery life, double the operating and storage memory, a faster processor and runs on Android 11 OS. . Like the MX808, the Autel MaxiCheck MX900 is tethered to the vehicle, since it does not have Bluetooth. . The MX900 has the same vehicle coverage as all other Autel tablets and offers Pre and Post Scans, Bi-directional controls, and Service Functions. However, it does not offer Topology, Remote Expert, Programming, nor Bluetooth. . Features- 8" corded Wi-Fi-enabled touchscreen tablet- Compatible with 1996 and newer U.S., Asian, and European vehicles,- Read and erase codes, view and graph Live Data, view Freeze Frame data- Perform bi-directional Active Tests and Special Functions- Smart AutoVIN technology for easily identifying vehicles- Supports DoIP and CAN FD protocols- Performs Pre & Post Scan- Supports all OBDII protocols and 10 test modes- Extensive, 40-plus Maintenance and Service Functions including:- Forced Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) regeneration- Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) reset- Oil Light Service and Battery Registration- Resets service mileage and service intervals- EFB Reset and perform Brake Bleed- Android 11OS, 1.8 GHhz processor and 7 hours of continuous battery life- Update firmware and coverage software wirelessly- 1- year Updates and Warranty . Where to buy (recommended authorized dealer): . Before buying from Autel, read this: | |||||
| RE: Welcome Everyone! | 56Relevance | 5 years ago | MountainManJoe | Notices | |
| - Forum Privacy Policy - In this Privacy Policy, "the forum", "we", "us" and "our" refers to: The Ask Scotty forum (carkiller.com) This is privacy policy sets out how the forum uses and protects any information that you provide, whilst using the forum products and services. What information we collect about you and how we use this information 1.1 Account and Profile Information You don’t have to create an account to use this forum, such as searching and viewing public member profiles, forums, topics and posts. If you do choose to create an account, you must provide us with some personal data so that we can provide our services to you. This includes a display name (for example, "John Doe"), nickname (for example, @john-doe) a username (for example, johnxdoe), a password, and an email address. Your display name and nickname is always public, but you can use either your real name or a pseudonym. After the registration your account display name, nickname and username are the same. 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| Local mechanic caused thousands of dollars in damage, breach of contract, fraud and more. | 49Relevance | 3 years ago | Equinox | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Scotty, I'm a long time viewer of your channel and can't begin to thank you for the years upon years you have spent taking the time to explain issues with cars and trucks. The following is something that I am sure you have heard before over your decades of experience. I'm hoping you can give me some advice on what to do. I apologize for the length. 3 years ago I purchased a 1995 Lexus Sc300 with the 2JZGE engine and automatic trans. The person that I bought the car from was in his early 20s and admitted he was in over his head. At the time I was working 12+ hour days following hurricanes that destroyed a good portion of our state. My job at the time sent company vehicles to a local garage (Chevy and Ford authorized repair centers were closed due to hurricane and the next closest were 2 hours away in Houston) for maintenance work and damage repair from the hurricanes. After the first company vehicle was fixed, the local garage offered any employee to bring in their personal vehicles. At this point in time, I had been informed by the previous owner that my car had been sitting for over 6 years and the fuel had gone bad. I tested and found that the fuel pump had failed. I dropped off my vehicle at the garage and requested the following:Removal and cleaning of gas tank.Clean out entire fuel system.Replace failed fuel pump. This started a 3 year adventure which has included the following:First time at garage - informed by garage that fuel pump needs to be replaced. Per my request - gas tank will be removed and cleaned, entire fuel system be cleaned out, fuel pump replaced and tested. This was literally written on the work order. After picking up my vehicle, it made it almost a mile from the business before dying. Second time at garage - informed by garage the replacement fuel pump failed. Thinking this was due to defective fuel pumps from a parts house, I requested the OEM Toyota Denso fuel pump. I watched as the garage found, ordered and charged me for the correct fuel pump for my vehicle. After picking up my vehicle, it made it down the road 1.5 miles before dying. Third time at garage - informed by garage the Denso fuel pump had failed and it would be a warranty part replacement. After picking up my vehicle, it made it down the road 1.7 miles before dying. Fourth time at garage - while speaking with the front office employee, the "mechanic" mentioned that not only had he not cleaned out the fuel system following the written agreement from the 1st Visit. But that he replaced the fuel pump with a local auto parts store fuel pump because the auto parts store was 5 minutes away and followed that with using a can of seafoam in my vehicle which he ran at high idle for over 30 minutes. Unfortunately this went on over a period of days with the lights left on and door left open which caused the battery in my vehicle to die (battery was 2 weeks old) and required a jump start of my car. When I asked if they had seen instances of OEM parts failing, the front office employee stated: "What's this box marked Toyota Denso that has been sitting by my desk for 3 months?" I went outside, opened the trunk of my vehicle, removed the fuel pump that had failed, and brought it inside. The "mechanic", in front of the owner of the garage, the office employees and customer's became very nervous after I asked: "Since when does auto parts store make fuel pumps for Denso?" Realizing I worked for the company that had brought them business following the hurricanes, he attempted to explain that "all fuel pumps are the same" and that he had charged me for the Denso part but never installed it. Scotty, as I'm sure you and many other people are aware, their can be massive differences in the reliability of OEM parts versus auto store parts. Because of the constant back and forth involving failed parts, I wanted a second opinion and had my vehicle towed to the local Toyota dealership. I was contacted 2 days later by the service manager of Toyota and asked to come down in person. After arriving, I was informed that the entire fuel system and engine were full of varnish. The damage done required Toyota disassembling the engine and clean out the entire fuel system before they would touch anything else. I was asked if previous garage had replaced the fuel pump and after stating yes, the Toyota dealership informed me that the fuel pump in my vehicle was put in incorrectly and cross referenced to a Ford Taurus SHO, while they both are 6 cylinder engines, the Denso part functioned differently than the Ford Taurus part. I was shown what was removed from my engine which had completely gunked up the injectors, sensors, engine and more. I was also asked by the Toyota dealership if someone had recently jump started my vehicle. I explained the shop that had it prior did jump it and asked why. The service manager and Toyota master mechanic explained: "Due to your vehicle being jumped incorrectly the ECU suffered damaged capacitors and would need to be sent out to be repaired (recapped) since Toyota does not have any replacements. Until that is done the vehicle will run for limited time in Park and Neutral before dying." While searching for a company able to repair the damaged capacitors on the ECU, I had my vehicle towed back home and stopped by the garage dropping off the Toyota bill where I was told I would be reimbursed for damages, towing and all. Following the second attempt to fix my fuel pump at this garage, I dropped off my company's mid 2000's Ford f-250 with the v10 engine. This Ford truck was in for a full tuneup, checkup and suspension, steering and brake work. After being picked up by my coworker and I, on the way back to work from the garage (a 5 mile drive) the truck suffered a transmission failure due to low transmission fluid, and nearly hit multiple cars while barely running into an off ramp girder. The Ford truck was towed back to the garage in question where it was discovered that the garage did not reinstall steering, suspension and brake components as well as not checking fluid levels before returning it for company use. The garage did not admit this until after being towed from my company to the garage 5 times, and attempted to blame this on:Brake rotor failing.Disc brake failing.Brake pads failing.Suspension bushings failing.Steering bushings failing.They did not fess up that fluid levels were not checked, suspension, steering and brake parts weren't reinstalled until refinery management and insurance got involved. It was then discovered that other than this Ford truck and my vehicle, another refinery vehicle was made inoperable as well as the vehicles of 14 customer's and company employees following the hurricanes due to either negligence of laziness. One day after the Ford truck suffered the transmission failure and was towed by my company back to the garage, I had my vehicle towed from the dealership to my home. While at the garage, I was notified that the owner sold the franchise. While dealing with the possibility of losing the contract from my company, my boss, coworker and I were informed by the front office employee that the "mechanic" is not a mechanic but a salesman who borrowed the shop mechanic's ASE certified work shirt on multiple occasions pretending to be a mechanic to drum up business. When it was realized by the "mechanic" and office staff that they were potentially on the hook for a liability lawsuit as well as fraud, they scrambled to resolve the situation. Unfortunately, the "mechanic" decided it would be a good idea to grab my keys and attempt to charge me for the last fuel pump cost. Upon being told those were the keys for the Ford truck which they did not fix, I left the garage and contacted the DA of Baton Rouge, Louisiana. The DA attempted to mediate wherein the garage admitted fault, admitted breach of contract, fraud (charging for a part that was never installed and pocketing the extra money) and was forced to refund the cost of the 1st fuel pump replacement. The DA informed me they could not force the full reimbursement, they are only able to mediate and I would need a lawyer for that to be done. I noticed the charge for the Denso fuel pump was never refunded and contacted the new shop owner regarding this. The new shop owner fully refunded that charge 7 months later. I looked for a lawyer to resolve this for a period of 11 months. Any lawyer that spoke with me, informed me that getting to court would exceed the value of the car and it would not be worth it, which is why some garages get away with this kind of thing. I was prepared to let this go, however recently while in line at a store I ran into the "mechanic" where he asked how my vehicle was running. I explained that due to his incompetence my vehicle was effectively a paperweight and I was never reimbursed for the damages he caused which led to the loss of my job since I couldn't be on call with an inoperable vehicle. Due to being in public and potential customer's witnessing this and him still wearing the business shirt, he promised to reimburse me asap. I made a google review outlying this entire thing. Two days later, on my google review I was asked to contact the new shop owner who initially seemed like he wanted to resolve this. I explained every thing that had occurred, including the dates and times, the breach of contract, the fuel pumps, the towing bills, the fraud, the damaged ECU due to not jump starting a car the correct way, the dealership damages, etc. The new owner admitted he was not aware of this and was told a different story by the "mechanic." I offered to stop one of his 4 franchises in the area and drop off every single bill and work order up to that point of which the "mechanic" had gotten wrong. I was told that since this happened before he brought the franchise he would have old shop owner contact me. 30 minutes later I was contacted by the old owner of the shop and asked what happened, I again reiterated the damage done and he responded by saying this was resolved because he refunded the charge of the first auto parts store fuel pump. I specified: "The car does not run, your mechanic breached a written contract and committed fraud, the agreement from day 1 was to reimburse for the damages." The old shop owner responded saying that I refused work being done on my vehicle (cleaning out the fuel system) to the tune of over $1000. I informed him: "That was the cost of the Toyota bill fixing what your mechanic damaged, look at the name of the dealership on the top of that bill. The only thing that your mechanic had done to this point was to charge me for 1 can of seafoam, 5 gallons of gas and the cost of 2 fuel pumps, one of which was never installed and he pocketed the difference." I asked if he had copies of the work orders to prove that I refused repairs and was informed that when he sold the business he removed and threw away the computer system and he did not have any records. I offered to give him (once again) my records and was told that was not necessary, he would contact his bank and make this right. As you can guess, this was another attempt at a run around. 3 days later, I called the old owner of the shop where he proceeded to argue with me over the damages done and said: "I sold the business, it is no longer my problem, talk to the new owner and mechanic, go f yourself." Since the google review was still up, the new owner contacted me again and asked for me to remove it. I informed him that since my vehicle does not run that is not going to happen anytime soon. He asked what I wanted and I said: "For the damages your salesman caused to be reimbursed." I was told that the new owner is no longer involved and it is now between myself and the mechanic. I again sent the Toyota bill to the garage and days later spoke with the "mechanic". I was informed: "I'll see you in court and with my years of experience as a salesman, I will win any case against any Toyota master mechanic in the country." I swear this is not a movie script or a lie, this "salesman" is actually this stupid. Unfortunately due to the car not being in running condition, even though I have a clean bill of health regarding the drive train and work which Toyota did, it is near impossible to sell and I am not able to part the vehicle out. Is their some sort of ASE certification board that can discipline the garage and mechanic or is this just one of those things that happens and it's best to move on from? | |||||
| Answer to: Public Service Announcement: Launch Scan Tools | 42Relevance | 4 years ago | Whatchamacallit | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| So, what I do is go to the manufacturer’s website and see if amazon is an authorized distributor. If it’s not listed but there is an amazon store, and I want to make sure the store is legit, I contact the manufacturer from their website and ask if they sell on amazon and, if they do, to provide me a link to their store..Innova and Xtools have an amazon store and sell direct there but others like Autel and Launch do not sell on amazon. Any stores in their name is not really them. Buyer Beware! | |||||
| Answer to: Help with a P0501 code on a Kia Sorento. | 42Relevance | 5 years ago | Chiefofsmoke | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Thanks for the reply. I have read those sites before. I did have freeze frame data for that code. Here is the thing, with that code, one site points to the wss in the wheel hub f/r or r/r, the others point to the VSS in the transmission, transfer case, or rear differential. So that leads me to the confusion of which one is it going to be. After looking at parts diagrams, this Kia the VSS is either inside or bolted to the outside of the transmission, one on the transfer case, one behind the gauge cluster. 3 different parts. Now if it is the wss, then there is one on each wheel. That is the conundrum. Lol | |||||
| Answer to: Disputing a Credit Card Charge | 38Relevance | 3 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I don't know, see what your fine print says, but I find that they are usually pretty accommodating. Absolutely, you should call them and tell them what happened. This is one of the best perks of using a credit card. There may even be some consequences to the merchant if it happens enough. | |||||
| Who gets the $ if I check out with another service advisor? | 49Relevance | 3 years ago | vanillaSEALant | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| On Thursday I went to a local Toyota dealership to replace the secondary air injection pump for $1600 ('07 V8 4Runner, 152,000 miles). The work order was written by "service advisor A," who also got me a loaner car. Still very thankful for it. The next day, he called me around lunchtime to say that the repair was finished. I missed that phone call; I was working, and was pretty sure that I could not get there by 5:30 to pick it up Advisor A called me again around 4pm, asking if I could pick up the car before the end of the day (Friday). I told him that I wouldn't be able to make it, and I would come on Saturday to pick it up. Then he suddenly asked for my credit card information, saying that he would get it taken care of right now because the service center would be crazy busy on Saturdays. I told him that I will be paying by a check. Then he insisted that all Saturday pick-ups must be paid for by Friday. I finally told him that I am not comfortable giving out my credit card number over the phone for such a large amount. Then he said "I am not sure why you would feel that way, but ok." And hung up on me as I began to explain. The dealership was mostly empty when I got there early Saturday afternoon. I did give my ID and credit card info when I took out the loaner car (they photocopied it), which is totally fine because I understand that's the proper procedure and I am there in person when it's being done. I ended up checking out with a different advisor, whom I will call "advisor B." I understand that advisor A works on commission and has a family. And I do feel bad about this, even if it's not my fault. However, I am upset that I am paying over 1K of my own money to be treated like ****. When he asked for my credit card number, I legit thought this was a phishing scam, because I have always paid for the service in person when I pick up the car. Plus I have never conducted a transaction that big over the phone. In the past I've had to change banks before because my credit card info was breached during Covid, so I am still sensitive about these things. Could anyone please enlighten me how the pay structure works for the service departments? I've read some about car salespeople, but that's a different department (no matter how many people you've talked to over the process of buying the car, the last salesperson who signs the deal usually gets the commission). In my case, the work order has advisor A's name written on it, but it was advisor B who handled the transaction and gave me my keys. Who is the real jerk here (me or advisor A?), and who gets the commission - advisor A or B? | |||||
| Kia Optima No speedometer | 43Relevance | 4 years ago | Johntcolon | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi Scotty, you are my last hope before i take to shop or hopefully not a dealer to put on a expensive scan tool. Ok its a 08 Kia Optima and the speedometer does not work everything else works on the cluster and no codes. I changed the input and output sensor and the wss on the front passenger side since its the only wss on the vehicle. Now i seen there is a 3rd VSS on the transmission? Or in the transmission? Im not sure i looked up pictures of the location and its just not there it shows its close to firewall about 5 to 6 inches to the left of the master cylinder but nothing. Also the vehicle was made in japan KNAGE123X85227995 heres the vin. Also here is the part number for the speed sensor i cant find to replace 4651739000. Any help will be much appreciated. | |||||
| Should I buy this 2015 BMW 1 series diesel? | 39Relevance | 4 years ago | kateHll | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| BMW, 1 Series 2015(65) 116d Sport 3dr Step Auto, 34k miles for £7,990 Hi Scotty and everyone! Big fan of your show, is this car a good offer? Many thanks & lots of Love, 😘 F Rear Wheel Drive- 1.5 litre 34,000 Miles Diesel 5 Seats 3 DoorHatchback Automatic Running Costs 72 MPG 823 Range (miles) 15 Insurance Group £20 Vehicle Tax | |||||
| Disputing a Credit Card Charge | 38Relevance | 3 years ago | Whatchamacallit | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I placed an order about 4 weeks ago for a part for one of my vehicles . They charged my credit card (VISA) but have not shipped the product to me yet. I have tried to contact the selling company for a status update to no avail. . It’s been 31 days since I placed the order and been charged. How long do I have to contact my credit card company to dispute the charge? | |||||
| Answer to: I don’t trust Amazon | 33Relevance | 5 years ago | Razmig Bartassian | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| amazon is a great place to shop for aftermarket car parts, but you have to make sure the brand you're buying is reputable and good. ALWAYS look through the reviews before buying something off ANY website like amazon. I always buy aftermarket car parts off amazon like LED bulbs, and I've had zero issues with them. I suggest going on the dealer's website to find the part number and then compare it to the part number(s) listed for the product on amazon. Do research on the specifications before buying it. | |||||
| Answer to: Disputing a Credit Card Charge | 28Relevance | 3 years ago | Glen_stet | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| That would depend on which credit card company and plan you have. I'd call them now, especially since the merchant is not communicating with you. If the part showed up tomorrow or next week, then you could call off the charge-back. | |||||
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