2004 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD LT 6.0L V8 210,000m No Crank, No Start Manual
As stated in the title I own a Chevy Silverado that has just started a "No Crank, No Start Problem" About a month ago. I have a lot of problems with this vehicle, but it has 210,000 miles on.
I changed all but one Ignition Coil packs and All Spark plugs and spark plug wires about a month ago. When I went to go start my truck after I completed this tune up, I got a no start no crank. (to be clear, all the features of the "Run" position worked, just the starter would not engage).
So I did what any sensible person would do and I jumped the starter posts using my trusty phillips head screw driver and forced the starter to engage and voila my vehicle is now in operation. I turned the vehicle off, then back on and all was good...
Come a few days ago, I start up the truck and drive to the gas station to "take a dump" well me and my truck must've had the same thought in mind because when I was finished with my "business" I went to go start up my truck in the parking lot where my truck also "excecrated" and decided it would turn on, but not crank.
So again, I jumped the starter posts and bada bing, bada bang we were up and running again. Started driving down the road and decided to pull over (On the Interstate I might add, which is not relevant to the diagnosis of my truck, but a good safety talk about high speed traffic and... you get my point) turn the vehicle off, and back on just to be sure I regain functionality of my vehicle. I did not.
It's been 5 days since, and my vehicle will still not start using the ignition.
Here is a list of things I have replaced (I'm a believer in throwing parts at it until the problem is fixed.. Cough*)
Replaced: Starter
Replaced: Starter Relay
Replaced: Ignition Switch (Tried old and new multiple times (I know factor seconds can be more problematic than the origional at times)
Replaced: Battery (Needed a new one anyway)
Inspected: IGN A/B/E Fuse 40A/40A/10A All good
Inspected: Crank Fuse 10A All Good
Oh, did I mention 2 owner ago someone installed a Directed 4X05 remote start system that has been giving me problems for the past 3 months?
I have replaced the Key FOB batteries twice now.
As of last night My Key FOB no longer activates Lock/Unlock function (or any other for that matter).
I have been locked out of my vehicle because my key fob does not work more than once (For all you Captains out there, my only manual door lock is busted)
I have removed and inspected the outdated Directed 4x05 twice now and visually do not see any problems.
I do not have a means to check voltage on any wiring harnesses or pin connectors.
I have looked up and performed all delete or relearn or all other Directed 4x05 procedures. It does not seem to make a difference.
I own two keys, A friend of mine holds the other key (he lives 45minutes away)
I have looked at and followed wiring diagrams...
Aghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
You're throwing a lot of parts at this when buying a $10 test light and testing the starter relay sockets would pretty much narrow down where the issue is.
You've looked at the wiring diagram.
You've seen that in order to get power on relay socket 85 for the "control side" of the starter relay the Clutch Pedal Start Switch must close when you press down on the clutch pedal.
A test light would let you see if that's happening.
You've seen that relay socket 30 has to have power going to it at all times.
A test light would let you see if that's happening.
You've seen that the PCM must provide a Ground to relay socket 86 for the "control side" of the starter relay to energize the relay ((when the clutch is pressed in providing power to relay socket 85)).
A test light would let you see if that's happening.
Lastly you've seen that when the starter relay is energized the circuit is closed between relay sockets 30 & 87 and there must be power at the "S" wiring terminal lug on the starter solenoid.
A test light would let you see if that's happening.
Seems to be a common theme here.
This is probably the best answer I could have hoped for. You know that thing people do where they procastinate on doing a task that seems overwhelming, but when they get down to doing it they find out the task is very simple and would have solved the problem ages ago.
This is what I am doing. Time to order a working test light and a good voltmeter.
Well I would say you probably have a fault in the anti-theft system of the vehicle. Find either a mechanic or a locksmith works on those systems. Johnny, the locksmith's work a lot cheaper. You tried the easy stuff. The ignition switch on that but if you got to keep crossing the solenoid with a screwdriver to get it going something's keeping power from getting there and it's usually then I theft system if everything you tried didn't fix it
The Anti-Theft system has definitely crossed my mind as a possible culprit, but I'll head around with a volt-meter and do some more testing to rule out everything else first before I take it into a mechanic or a locksmith. I have too many friends with "Bad O2 Sensor needs replaced", when infact they have a broken exhaust manifold bolt near the firewall on the driver's side of the engine compartment.