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2005 Nissan Maxima ...
 
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2005 Nissan Maxima is going to make me insane, looking at replacemments.

  

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So, overall I and my parents have had good luck with Nissans until I took this car in to get an oil leak fixed (was just the gasket between the oil cooler adapter / filter housing and the engine block.  Pretty much since then the car's turned in to a nightmare of minor issues all over.  First it was the alternator going out, replaced that and then I had no heat unless driving.  We're talking an instant read thermo in the vent would go from over 100°F driving to about 20° at a thirty second red light. Not great when it can reach -40° here. After that my power driver seat went dumb, where if I moved the transmission lever left or right (like I was taking it out of park) my seat would inch forward about 1/4" and wouldn't move back.  Not great for a 6'2" tall guy, ended up just unplugging the seat.  

My latest is by far the worst though.... Believe the ABS module went out and got quoted almost $3k Canadian to replace it.  Driving down the road you can hear the ABS modulating a bit, and if you even barely press the brakes ABS sounds like you're full on panic braking.  We've already tried cleaning out the hub and replaced the sensor that the code indicated with no improvement.  I was able to get by with unplugging one of the other sensors making the Traction control and ABS completely shut off. 

 

So, after all that I'm thinking I may avoid Nissan for a bit, even though I LOVE the way they drive.

 

Right now I've got half an eye on an '08 Highlander with 178kms (about 110k miles) and an '08 Rav4 V6 with 155kms (96k miles) both asking around $11k Canadian. I know both have pretty good reputations. Both are about a 2 hour drive away however. 

Recently a local dealership popped up with a couple used Venza's. A 2011 with the 2.7L 4cyl and 190kms (118k) for $9k and a 2010 with the V6 but 266kms (165k miles) for $8k  How are the Toyota 2.7L's?  I know the 3.5 is fairly bulletproof, but that'd be by far the highest mileage I'd ever bought a car with.

There's also a 2013 Mitsubishi Outlander V6 with 145kms (90k miles) out there for $9,500.  I know the build quality isn't as high having had an '08 but that ones still ticking with the most work having been done in almost 300kms (180k miles) being things you can see wearing out.  Alternator and wheel bearings are about all it's had beyond 

 

Beyond the Yota's what other similar vehicles would be worth looking at?  I've eyed up a few CRV's but a lot of them in my price range have been eaten up pretty good by rust.


@jcbrynm
Should’ve saved your money and used the AT 205 reseal, it’s a close friend of Scotty’s......


2 Answers
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Do you need an suv/crossover? You’ll be paying extra for that body style.

If not, just look at Camry's & Accords. You should be able to get a very nice example with your budget.

As with any used car, get it checked out by an honest mechanic before you buy it. 


@inthrustwetrust
Absolutely need? 90% of the time no, but the fact that most cars nowadays only have a 1000lb tow rating does push me to an SUV so if I'm up at the lake I could tow my parent's boat or throw the motorbike on to a trailer if I wanted to go on a longer trip.

I'm OK with paying the bit more in comparison to have that capability and surprisingly prices aren't terribly far off, maybe $1000-1500 for similar year and mileage.


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This sounds like bad grounds in that car... Being older and being in the extreme cold, I would look there. '

Examine the neg battery cable and where it contacts the body. Clean those surfaces and see where the other grounds go. 

I would add a suplimental ground from the battery to the engine and then to the body. I suspect the welds or bolts are loose under the shifter that causes the seat not to work right. You should look there or for a damaged wiring harness under the rug. 

This is common BS for any high milage car in extreme temps. Those grounds will make you think that the car is possessed. 

A thorough examination will determine the problem. Use a set of jumper cables to bolster the grounds from the neg terminal to the steel inside near the seat or on the engine block or the body. If the problems go away or get somewhat better, you have bad grounds. 


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