Just recently bought a 2000 Toyota Corolla with 257k mi, automatic. Runs well and no OBD codes upon scan. Only problem is that the AC blows cool but not cold. It blows normally when changing to different speeds but just isn't cold. Could this be a refridgerant problem? Thanks for your help.
Clarification: It blows cool on front passenger side, driver side, or both?
It blows cool on all vents but I'm unsure about the passenger side/right-most vent. I will have to check later.
On a car that is nearly 22 years old it's a good bet that it is low on refrigerant. After checking for major leaks the AC system needs to be evacuated, leaky parts repaired as needed, and recharged with the correct amount of refrigerant by weight. Do NOT use one of those crap "recharge cans" with the cheap, useless "fill to the green" low-side gauge on it and laced with potentially system-destroying sealers.
If you are not familiar with working on AC systems take it to a mechanic who is. (A good independent mechanic. Not a stealership, not Pep Boys, Firestone, Midas, or any of those other chain gyp joints.)
What would be a general cost for an AC recharge? I know that it can be different for certain cars/mechanics, but just wanted to know what you'd get for it.
Assuming you have low refrigerant and it's not some other issue, a lot depends on whether you've developed a leak that needs to be repaired or whether it's just low due to over 20 years of very slow seepage. Also I don't have a good feeling for what mechanics are charging these days because I do almost all of my own maintenance and repairs.
In one of his videos when, Scotty suggested using a can with a gauge for regular folk. The cans usually cost $35. If the refrigerant got leaked, it may be a good idea to add refrigerant with some sealant. The sealant will expand the rubber o-rings a bit, which may help eliminate the leak problem. I could not find evidence that sealants in refrigerator do destroy AC systems.
Scotty is great but not infallible, nobody is. The only use for those "cans with a (useless) gauge for regular folk" is to try getting a little more life out of an old heap with three tires in the junkyard and the fourth on black ice. Not something that should be used on a vehicle you want to keep as long as possible.
The sealant does not merely expand the rubber O-rings. It crystallizes and hardens upon exposure to air and moisture in an attempt to "seal" things such as evaporator leaks. Unfortunately it can just as easily clog up parts of the AC system. I've seen it happen. (There is alway a small amount of air and moisture present, and the "recharge cans" put even more in because you can't purge the filler hose. You also can't monitor the high side of the system to see what's happening.) It can also damage professional equipment if and when you take the car to a shop.
If you want to find evidence of the destructive nature of sealers in automotive AC systems I suggest you check out places where professional air conditioning techs hang out, such as the forums at aircondition.com to see what the pros who deal with these issues day in and day out have to say about it.
Buy a cheap pocket thermometer and insert it into the central (not the side vents) AC vent as shown below. If it reads 40-45F, that's normal. If it reads, 60-70F at max cold air, then you can proceed with spending your time/money on fixing whatever is the problem.
On my cheap and old Toyota Yaris, it reads 43.2F.
A person I know does full refrigerant recover and refill for $80. Find an independent mechanic in your city. Could be just a person only specializing in AC.