The challenge is a crank no start. I have added fuel to the intake manifold and crank the engine no change at all. It is not starting. In addition, I checked for spark, but there is no spark as well.
Hence, I have just checked for injector pulse but there's no injector pulse either. There is also no ignition current to the injector circuit with key ON and engine off.
All the fuses and relays are good. I also checked the injector circuit for continuity if the wire is shorted but it was ok. Scan tool communicated and showed only p1843 and p1842 code. There was no RPM during cranking. What I noticed today when I compared the ignition, earth and DC with the same car that was starting and driving to the car that was not starting, what I saw made me to flabbergasted. Where the was ignition for example in the working car there was DC in the car that was not starting. It is like that in many places in the fuse box and PCM circuit.
Please what's the cause of the problem and what I need to do? I don't know.
Please provide details on your vehicle: Year, Make, Model, Mileage, Engine/Transmission.
Land rover range rover p38 v8 engine with automatic transmission 4.6HSE
Check for rpm signal. A lot of vehicles will cut fuel or spark when it loses cam or crank signal. Or possibly and ecm internal problem
You are very right sir there was no rpm when I checked that with my scantool
Well unfortunately there could be various causes of it just clicking. The relay it's off could be bad the wiring between the relay and the pump could be bad. Either ground or power wiring. The pump itself could be bad. Or the computer circuit that finally energizes the pump could be bad realize that computer circuit is ultimately a ground circuit not a power circuit to make the fuel pump run.
Sir, the were lots of shorts in the ECM as you rightly said and also at coil wires.
But I noticed something else that got me flabbergasted which I will need your assistance please. When I got an aftermarket fuse box and install it to the car without any further repair done by me, I saw something remarkable, the fuse 26 and 37 that I highlighted before in the older fuse box didn't have current nor ground to it, with the new one installed the was current to fuse 37 while fuse 26 didn't have current to it using my test light except I swapped the test light from battery negative terminal to positive before it lots the test light. But in the older fuse box there was no current nor ground at those fuses 26 and 37. Please sir what should I do next?
We have problems like that it's often either failure of the main computer the ECM or a wiring short somewhere good luck on that
Thank you so much sir. You are indeed a great professional in car repair.
Good afternoon, sir. Thank you once more for your response. I pulled out the ECM and checked there was actually lots of short to ground therein and few wires breached with each other which I corrected. In addition, I noticed that "there was no ignition current at all in the fuse box," but the dashboard lights were coming ON with key ON which is proper. The fuse box itself didn't transfer power to fuse 26 and 37 that were responsible for transferring current to the injector circuit with ignition switch turned to ON position. Hence I told the car owner that the fuse box too will require replacement. And when he purchased it from a store the was current there at the fuses but not to the injector circuit. I noticed that some pins in the fuse box that was powering fuses 26 and 37 were completely pulled out.
Also I noticed that instead of Fuse 26 to be powered with test light on ground it was rather powered with test light on battery positive. Please sir, help me out on what I can do next to fix the car problem permanently.
Scotty you're very right in your answer to my question about no start on Range Rover p38 v8 engine. There was a short, but I also noticed that when I activate the circuit for fuel pump in the power center with my test light the ABS relay clicks in the car that is not starting instead of fuel pump to buzz as in the same car that I confirmed that circuit which started. Please what's the cause of the problem and how can I fix that problem so that the relay doesn't click with the test light in that circuit but rather the fuel pump should buzz just as I noticed in the car that was working fine.
Wow, this sounds almost as bad as pooking a Hornets Nest!
Please, can you be more detailed?