Hi Scotty,
I'm in the UK. I've got a Lexus IS220D. I think the fuel filter is in the same location as the IS250. Anyway, I've tried to get 4 mobile (driveway)mechanics to replace it; the first just made his excuses and left, the second said he'd rather take the whole differential out before doing it, and the last two just flat out refused when I told them where it was.
I'm currently putting my flat on the market and will buy a Toyota Land Cruiser/truck when it's sold, but I don't want to bodge this in the mean time and be left without transport.
Any chance you could do this in a video for an IS250?. I jacked the car up myself and got my bearings on the filter location, but get the impression you've gotta be that elastic guy Richard Reeve from Fantastic 4 to do this job.
Or Scotty Kilmer!. {black}:smile: {black}:starryeyes:
It's a difficult job to do without a car lift but it can be done.
You'll need a 1/2" drive ratchet, reducer to 3/8", and either some 3/8" wobble extensions or a universal joint adapter.
You've taken a look at it. There's 3 bolts holding the filter housing to the car.
You just remove those 3 bolts, pull the housing down a little and disconnect the fuel line pinch clamps holding the fuel lines to the housing.
Out it comes.
The reason you can't just unscrew the filter housing lock ring is because of this "locking screw" that's only accessible from the top side of the filter housing. (really dumb design). It looks like this from the bottom.
It looks like this from the top.
Really excellent response jack62, good job.
Do I need to drain the car or depressure the fuel lines or any of the sort? Or can I just get stuck in?
Do I need to drain the car or depressure the fuel lines or any of the sort? Or can I just get stuck in?
I don't know what stuck in means, but pull the fuel pump fuse. Start & run the engine until it stall. Then crank it a bit more.
Thanks for the reply @jack62. I had it up on the ramps last weekend and have all the tools you mentioned, but the last mechanic removed the bolt that was hardest to get to. This bolt is the furthest behind the rear differential with the exhaust pipe also in the way. I could just about turn it to get it back into the threads, and I couldn't get it to bite. So I've ordered one of those 180 degree rotating head spanners @ 12mm, and I might grind it down to size, or anneal it first and bend it to suit getting to that particular bolt. I figured that if I couldn't get that bolt back on, I wasn't ready to tackle the rest of the job.
There's an electrical wire that clips into the surroundings as well (don't know if it's a ground or something) that I'm probably never going to reach with mitts. Probably have to use some long nose pliers or something to pull out and unclip...
It's just the fact that these 4 mechanics refused to do it has put the wind up me a bit. I suppose they're worried about everything being rusted on and it becoming an even bigger headache.
If I could be cheaky and ask another question: do you recommend filling the filter up with diesel and then running the priming pump fitted to the car, or could I just get away with doing as you've suggested and putting it back and then just running the primer as it is?. I've never done this before, and assume it will spill as I reattach it. I'm worried about spilling diesel on the surrounding metal and such, as I hear it can corrode over time.
-I always thought diesel was like a lubricant. But then I suppose getting it on and off, and the car working again is a win at the expense of a bit of spilled fuel.
you don't have to fill the filter with fuel and a little diesel fuel contacting a metal part isn't going to hurt it
.
When you disconnect the lines a little fuel will probably come out. Since you'll be laying under the car just wear eye protection and have a rag laying on your chest so you can grab it easily to clean your hands. (It won't hurt you)
.
and you're right, the mechanics don't like doing this job but it's not so much the 3 mounting bolts. Of course they're going to be a little tough to break loose, that's why the 1/2" drive ratchet is necessary
.
Occasionally, that little locking screw's head gets so corroded that the screw has to be drilled out
.
But that's no big deal either. If you have to drill it out, you just grab a new screw and put it in there. It's only purpose is to keep the locking ring from vibrating loose. It's not under any heavy load
.
It just adds a little more time to the job. (Maybe 20 minutes)
.
There's probably 100 youtubes on drilling out a screw because of a damaged head
.
Also, don't let the mechanics influence your attitude about this job. They get to "pick and choose" their jobs and there's many easier repairs they can choose to bill 1 hour labor than laying under your Lexus with rust falling in their face, working with their arms above their head
.
It's basically an easy job with the right tools, just an unpleasant job because you're under the car, laying on your back, working in tight quarters, with your arms over your head
.
Go for it! Start at noon and you'll be done and all cleaned up by afternoon tea
Thanks again for the replies @Jack62. Shame most of the mechanics in the world are Slippin' Jimmy types from Better Call Saul. We need more people like yourself and Scotty Kilmer that are just prepared to discuss things as they are. But I suppose they're more interested in working for little old ladies that have got no idea of whether they've done the job or not.
I'll update the thread once I've done this. Just waiting on some more tools. I might have to start buying Japanese tools as well as cars, since it seems even European makes are made in China these days as well...