His upstream O2 sensors are A/F sensors (wideband).

I couldn't find specific data on that. I'm taking it to a mechanic soon. What are the things I should ask the mechanic to check in particular?

Hi! I'm actually wondering if the gas mileage has anything to do with the scanned results.

For stop and go city driving it sounds in the ballpark to me (those are not economy cars) but I don't know what's "normal" for that particular vehicle.

I thought only a rich mixture (I.e. negative fuel trims) would result in more fuel being used and therefore worse fuel economy.

@daywalker
I'm not an expert, but I don't think it's that straightforward. It depends WHY the computer is trimming fuel.
A negative fuel trim value on a scanner simply means the computer is attempting to reduce fuel in the mixture (by shortening fuel injector pulses). This should happen when a rich mixture is detected (via O2 sensor). And if everything is working properly, then yes that should reflect reality, and there is too much fuel in the mixture. But computers are easily fooled. For example, if there's misfiring happening, then the sensors will tell the computer that the mixture is too rich (detecting the unburnt fuel) even though the mixture was correct to begin with. Or maybe the injectors aren't working the way the computer is expecting, or maybe the O2 sensor is malfunctioning, etc. The computer is not always aware of reality.
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In this fellow's case, the computer thinks the mixture is lean (too much O2 in the exhaust). Again , if everything was working properly then that might be the case. But if he has a vacuum leak, then too much O2 will detected in the exhaust. But the real problem is that air is bypassing the MAF sensor. It isn't being measured, therefore not enough fuel is being added to use up all the oxygen. No matter how much the fuel is being trimmed richer, it may not be enough, and it will try adding more and more all the time, causing more fuel consumption than normal.
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That was my line of thinking. I could be 100% wrong.

I just noticed that the engine wasn't fully up to operating temperature when you took these readings. You need to go for a drive or wait until the temperature stabilizes around 90C.

This is why looking at a screenshot of data at idle isn't very useful in a lot of cases
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It would be helpful to see what happens when the engine is held at higher rpms for a couple of minutes to see what happens with the fuel trims. Like, do the STFT's go negative and does it start pulling down the LTFT.'s? That would point to a likely vacuum leak
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I was scratching my head wondering where the fuel trim data for bank 1 was. I didn't realize that after we clicked on his link that we had to click on the picture to get the complete data list, DUH!
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But anyway, one piece of useful info is that it's running lean (at least at idle) on both cylinder banks. That removes a lot of stuff from the troubleshooting process
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Also, for the Emission Test, "Not Passed" doesn't equal "Failed"
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Especially for "Current Drive Cycle" data because the specific criteria to run the test(s) on some of those components may not have been met prior to, (like a cold soak for 8 hours) or during, like speed, engine temp, and engine load %, may not have been met during the current drive cycle to allow the tests to be run.

Good point.

There is a exhaust leak and it is bit loud on cold start. Btw there is no check engine light and I couldn't identify any misfire.

start with fixing the exhaust leak