Here, members can tell their experiences cars they owned. This would help those buying used cars. Cars are divided by country of origin (of make). Please include make model year miles and basically overall reliability experience and if you would recommend it to someone else.
Put it as a comment of the region of origin.
Japanese
Hi, I ran a car fleet so I have a lot of information I’m going to share.
The 2007~2013 Motorized Manual Toyota Corolla is one of the worst cars I’ve owned. (READ BEFORE YOU GET YOUR PITCHFORKS OUT). Toyota used to offer their cars on some markets with a fancy new “robotic” gearbox. This gearbox has a single clutch and all of them would drive like a driving student on their 2nd lesson.
It had only 6 gears so doing 80 on the highway would make the engine go over 4,000 rpm.
Reliability on those was also hilarious, I saw some of those cars fail before they reached 90,000 miles because of gearbox issues.
Funnily enough, that’s not the worst car I’ve saw come out of Toyota, the early 2000s Yaris is a joke, the early 10s Diesel Avensis is one of the worst diesels out there, Or the current generation Toyota AyGO is a miserable car.
1999 Honda Accord since Day 1. Basic Maintenance. Amazing vehicle.
Replaced clutch as preventive maintenance around 150K.
Most of the repairs I had happened after 200K miles.
- Relay underneath steering wheel
- Replaced starter
- Replaced a spring on clutch. (Not sure what exactly it was, the clutch pedal pushed down, and couldn't come back up.)
- Replaced fuel pump (technically, it was just a relay or something on the pump, but cheaper to replace whole pump.)
- Replaced door latch drivers side.
- Replaced CV Axle (Boot torn) Passenger.
- Replaced CV Axle (Boot torn) Driver
- Replaced Timing Belt, Balancing Belt, and Water Pump
- Replaced Lower Ball Joint (due to an error by me. I tore the boot.)
- There is an oil leak, that I used AT-205. Keeping an eye on it.
I'm at 270K, 21 years later.
The first 200K miles came within the first 10 years of the car. The last 70K came from the last 11 years of the car.
2008 Lexus LS460 - Best long distance cruiser I've owned. Expensive repairs caused me to sell it. Really like my 2020 Honda Accord 2.0T Sport.
1997 Toyota Corolla
reliable until engine started having issues at 170k miles, 21 years old, used as daily driver by father
2017 Toyota RAV4 AWD LE, 35K miles
Haven't had any issues yet besides a key that needed reprogramming right off the lot.
Audio is pretty bad in the base trim, I would suggest getting a higher trim.
Safety features work great.
2017 Subaru Outback. Great car for light offroading. Have not had any issues yet.
2000 Acura Integra Coupe GSR (manual): still own and drive it and it is sitting at 306,000 total miles with minimal issues; nothing major has failed. I got it used from my brother back in 2005 with 40,000 miles on it then.
I currently own a 2012 mazda 3i touring Skyactiv 4cyl with the Aisin 6-speed auto with 168k miles.
This car has been an absolute unit. I have driven it from Florida to Pennsylvania to Texas and used it as a delivery car as well as a daily driver for work. It's been mine since it had 17 miles on the it and I have no complaints other than it being an automatic. I bounce back and forth on whether to sell it or not. 2 wrecks and 80k miles of being a delivery driver have really done a number on its value. Currently, I'm looking into buying more comfortably seating for it as well as considering a resonator delete. A few years back I added a spoiler myself and I gotta say, I love it! It really makes the car pop in parking lots (as much as a Mazda3 can).
But that's the story so far. We'll see what the future brings.
2013 Honda Civic LX : very reliable car. I beat the heck out of it and put 100k miles on it in only 2 years. I gave it to my brother and got a Camry only because I was sick of compact cars.
2019 Toyota Camry SE : I am loving this car so much so far. Very comfy and has a pretty good amount of power. I’m hoping this one lasts as long as my Honda.
2013 Nissan Altima SV : HORRIBLE CAR ! I bought it with 70k miles and by the time it hit 80k miles, the transmission started to go bad.
2008 Camry LE: Mixed Experience, Better (Oddly) as it ages: This car has had a split life. Five winters in Massachusetts, nine winters in Central Texas. There were MANY problems over the first six years, some covered under an extended warranty. These included the following: Rack-and-pinion steering, radiator, transmission leaks, water pump, cruise control on the steering wheel, the sun visors, twice, the radiator (after five years), and the windshield cracked (had to be replaced) in the first couple of years.
Insurance covered the windshield, and the extended warranty covered the transmission leak, the rack-and-pinion replacement, the radiator, the dangerously defective sun visors and the cruise control. (And, of course, the brake pedal fiasco of 2010).
After year six, there were other issues: For example, when I was cleaning out the airbox, and dug below the level that holds the filter, the plastic cracked and then crumbled. The car was eight years old at the time. I replaced the air box, five years ago, with a K&N short air intake. (No problems since, BTW).
The cheap plastics and polymer issues continued. The dash began to melt, which was a common feature (?) in the southern U.S. The local dealer replaced that gratis. The lower dash that supports the glove box also cracked, as did the center console arm. (In each case, I replaced those with salvage yard pieces, in DIY). The trunk latch malfunctioned. (I replaced that with a rebuilt unit, three years ago. No problems, since).
The evap core needed to be replaced two years ago (That was an expensive repair). The wheel bearings needed replacement after 100K. Shocks and struts were replaced at approximately 100K, as well. And, as is common, there was a power steering line leak, which is common in this Camry generation. There are some emerging problems with the clear coat, as well.
On the plus side, the car rides very well. And, despite the infamy that accompanies the 2007-2009 2AZ-FE engines, there's been no major loss of oil (something that I watch for, closely). The transmission hasn't been a problem, either, apart from an earlier leak, and a new drain plug for the pan (recent). The car has nearly 150K, and rides well. I keep the fluids fresh, and anticipate keeping it for the foreseeable future.
Korean
Modern Korean cars are alright.
I once had a 2012 Hyundai Accent In my fleet and it was actually a good reliable car. Don’t expect it to last over 160,000 miles, and it’s important to note that they’re one of the most dangerous cars when it comes to deaths/100,000 cars (source: IIHS)
Another great car is the Hyundai i40 (maybe exclusive to Europe), but some had a 7 speed dual clutch gearbox and that gearbox would fail very early on and not last even 90,000 miles.
2009 Kia Sportage 2.0 I4 (Naturally Aspirated Hyundai Beta II Ulsan, Korea made Engine), 4 speed automatic transmission (sportmatic w/ overdrive)
The Elantra/Tucson/Sportage from this time was probably the more reliable of Korean cars, commonly lasting around 170-200k miles, more than the modern ones by far.
Has 124k miles at the moment biggest expense was timing belt other than that great car
European
After replying to all of the posts here; here’s the last category.
The second car I currently own is a 2010 Volvo C30 with a 2.0L DuraTec engine and a DualClutch Transmission (6DCT450). Great cars, very reliable, this car is the joy of my life.
A family member her of mine has a 2017 Skoda Rapid, it’s a comfy, relaxed, zippy little sedan (“liftback”) that feels very upmarket. The reliably on them is “meh” and there’s a ton of plastic crap but like the next car I’m going to describe people don’t mind it one bit.
The SEAT LEON FR, OH BOY where I live, they’re super popular for their VW 1.8 180HP engine. Super cheap car to buy, expensive to repair but an excellent budget hot hatch.
Now for another car I had a lot of experience with, the Renualt Fluence and Renualt Meganè IV 1.5 diesel EDC. Great car, probably the longest lasting and most reliable car the French ever made.
Interior on the Fluence is very upmarket and is pack full of features.
And last but not least, friend mechanics claim that the new Peugeot 3008 diesel is a masterpiece. the 1.6L diesel with an 8 speed Toyota (AISIN) built hydro-automatic (non of that CVT bs here). They’re reliable, efficient and luxurious.
I had a love hate with my BMW X5, second generation. I had it for about 4 years from 160K-200K miles. It's amazing when it works. But basic maintenance cost an arm and a leg. And repairs are and arm, leg, and torso.
The most annoying is the valve cover leak and PCV valve. You have to replace the entire valve cover to fix the PCV valve. And there is so much crap to remove just to remove the valve cover itself.
The other annoying thing is the DISA valve, which works kinda like the throttle. Plastic piece of crap.
The actual engine is amazing. It's the stuff surrounding it that is a pain. And the transmissions are ZF transmissions. Amazing.
Oh yeah, one more thing. Electric brake system broke. And the emergency release wouldn't release.
Love hate with that car.
BMW is the definition of endless money pit. I say this all the time. I spent more in repairs in 4 years of owning the BMW, than I did in 21 years maintaining my Honda Accord.
2008 BMW 335XI Coupe - Loved it. Minor issues but I had extended warranty for it. One of the cars I miss the most.
American
I currently own a Ford Focus, it’s a reasonable car if you don’t mind investing in maintenance.
The DuraTec engines on those are bulletproof expect for the timing belt, but the gearbox could be much better.
The powerShift 6DCT250 (unlike its upmarket 6DCT450 and revised 6DCT300 versions) is unreliable and you will have to replace the clutch at some point, and a lot of cars have what feels like a transmission issues caused by a bad ground cable.
2018 Ford F150 - Worst vehicle I ever owned. Sued Ford to make them buy it back due to many issues, but mostly the 5.0L V8 oil consumption.
2018 & 2019 Mustang GT's - Sold less than a year after purchasing both. Too many problems.
2009 Ford Focus, 286,000 miles
Sold it today, I will miss it. It rattled like no tomorrow, but the only thing I ever did besides the oil and brakes were a couple plugs and coils. Great vehicle.
2005 Ford E-350 XLT , 220,000 miles
Solid vehicle. Has had minor rust issues, and the A/C went out @150K. Other than that, plenty of power and towing, and had to replace the alternator once.
2004 Chevrolet Corvette (C5) with 6-speed manual: currently at 43,000 miles; bought it in 2011 used with 13,000 miles on it. The only issue the last 10 years has been a failing window motor assembly
on the passenger side. Other than that it’s has no issues. I also put 2,000-3,000 miles on it each year, and don’t drive like a maniac.
2004 Chevy Suburban : It was my dad’s but I drove it almost everyday. That thing had 246k miles on it but it rode like a dream. Not a fan of the terrible gas mileage tho.
2004 Chevy Malibu V6 : my first car. It was 13 years old with 266k miles when I got it for only $1,500.... so yea it didn’t last long especially with the way 18 year old me drove. I’d only say it was ok because it lasted 280k miles tho but I didn’t like being seen in an older vehicle while living in Orange County, California lol
Posted by: @nwjudge
2000 Chevrolet Tahoe LT. Assembled in Janesville, WI (50 minutes from home). Purchased for $1150 in August 2017 with 315K miles. It currently has 370,8XX miles on it. Here is a list of what I've had to replace:
-Rear brake caliper
-Thermostat/housing
-Brake lines
-Power steering pump
-Idler pulley/Tensioner/Serpentine Belt
-Plastic connectors for heater core
Overall, it's been an excellent vehicle. I drove it daily for a while, we took it on a road trip to Tennessee in the Smokey Mountains, and we used it all summer last year to pull our camper. We're actually looking into buying another one, due to the rusted frame.
cars i have owned
AP 6 Valiant 1966 model - aussie build, 225ci slant 6 auto, no matter how hard i drove it, it kept going but body rusted out in the lower rear quarter panels
HK monaro GTS x2 1968 model - another aussie car, both had probably gone around the clock many times. both 5.0 chev with powerglide and 10 bolt diff. 2nd one was lowered, engine no longer stock . 1st one written off as some idiot came out of a car park and pulled the rear quarter out of it, 2nd one got stolen( very common for this model) recovered partial car. was in garage for almost 9 years rebuilding it as parts were hard to find at that time.ended up selling it with enough spares to build a 2nd car.
ford cortina 1975 model - another aussie built car, this had a 250 ci with auto, was left standard and very reliable. got written off due to girlfriend at the had an accident.
ford fairmont V8 1974 model - aussie built ford, this was left standard was a 5.8 351 ci with C4 auto, very reliable. this was to replace the 2nd monaro being stolen.
mazda RX4 1974 model - japanese built , replace the fairmont i sold. was standard when i bought it. engine soon was bridgeported and all the usual stuff thrown onto a beer keg engine, early RX7 5 speed fitted. although it was no longer standard still very reliable. car got stolen and never recovered.
nissan C210 skyline 1978 model - aussie built nissan, replaced the RX4 that was stolen, this was a coupe with 2.4l 6 with 5 speed. was standard for a while then i tinkered with turbocharging and injection.this became i very subtle street sleeper, it would give a few small block V8's a wake up call. car got written off when a truck crossed the centre line.
nissan 240k 1974 model -japanese built , replaced written off skyline. was 2.4l 6 with auto.old and reliable then got modified with turbo,injection big chamber heads and ports along with close ratio rally box. was another street sleeper and a car i used as an experiment to see what would work with turbocharging.many nissan "experts" claim my engine combo would not deliver power effectively, i proved them wrong.sometimes you just need to think outside the box.very reliable even with the turbo.
honda accord 1988 model - japanese built. got married and had to sell off 240K as wife at the time did not want to be seen in that. honda was very comfortable and smooth drive . wife wrote it off in an accident.
nissan skyline R31 1988 model - aussie built nissan, this replaced the written off honda, very reliable and was left standard. this travelled almost 500,000 kilometers and still running strong when i sold it.
nissan maxima A33 2000 model - japanese built, 3.0 l V6 very reliable until transmission pooped itself at around 340,00 kilometers. was not worth the money to replace transmission. got sold off to a car wrecker
chrysler grand voyager 2008 model - US built chrysler for aussie market (same as town and country with different grill) this is still my current car. it has 470 kilometers on the clock, runs dual fuel (lpg and petrol). was previously a taxi ( deregistered as a taxi in 2018) and has an extensive service history even has original purchase receipt with the car, 68,000 AUD in 2008 . was bought extremely cheap out of a car yard as it needed some maintenance done on it. to date very reliable and smooth for a minvan, no major issues to date and very reliable even with the mileage it has. only issue a the torn/broken stabilizer mounting point on the front ( as scotty said a 6 pack will fix it, but here would be more like a slab 24 bottles/cans lol)
in a nut shell every car i have had has been reliable be it standard or modified, only on rare occassions did any break down on the road, things like burst radiator/ heater hoses or fuses popping but never major mechanical issues. all my cars have always been serviced regularly either by myself or sending it to a mechanic. if any car is maintained regularly they should be reliable and last a decent amount of years
Those old Maximas were amazing!
I've mostly been driving Saabs since around 1984 and have racked up somewhere around a million miles in them. I've found Saabs to be fun to drive and mostly reliable, with some weaknesses and annoyances. In fact despite the length of time and number of miles I have not owned all that many because I keep them for a very long time, usually 300,000 to 400,000 miles. Although Saabs have been good to me, being that they are old niche vehicles I don't recommend them to the average used car buyer so I'm not going into detail on their good and bad points.
Prior to Saabs I primarily drove AMC cars and had very good experiences with them. (I never bought any of the Renaults they sold. Those were junk.)
ose old Maximas were amazing!
a bit on the ugly side but cheap and easy to maintain. VQ 30 had enough power and torque for a fwd v6
2000 Chevrolet Tahoe LT. Assembled in Janesville, WI (50 minutes from home). Purchased for $1150 in August 2017 with 315K miles. It currently has 370,8XX miles on it. Here is a list of what I've had to replace:
-Rear brake caliper
-Thermostat/housing
-Brake lines
-Power steering pump
-Idler pulley/Tensioner/Serpentine Belt
-Plastic connectors for heater core
Overall, it's been an excellent vehicle. I drove it daily for a while, we took it on a road trip to Tennessee in the Smokey Mountains, and we used it all summer last year to pull our camper. We're actually looking into buying another one, due to the rusted frame.
I reposted your answer in the "American" car section, can you delete this one? Thank You.
Thanks for your answer btw
Had great luck with multiple four runners and other Toyotas!!
Most recent first - note that I'm not mentioning tires, batteries, fluid changes in maintenance
2009 Toyota Matrix - Have had for 50k miles, drives and handles great, but the ride is rough. Only fix has been alternator. Driving it flat out is more fun than driving a fast car at 1/3 throttle!
2001 Toyota Sienna - Had for 120k miles, drove great, great road trip car, only fix was brake pads. Dealer freaked out when I bought it on a 0% financing, 36 month deal - they never had anybody actually use the promo, the term was too short for people.
1996 Toyota Camry - Had for 160k miles, drove great. Only fixes were hoses, timing belt, knock sensor.
1992 Toyota MR2 - Had for 20K miles, fun to drive, 1 of the few sports cars that fit me - 6'3". fixed clutch (bad when I bought it). Only sold it because I liked motorcycles better.
1983 - Toyota Supra - Had for 75k miles, loved it, great for fun drives and regular commutes. Replaced the bad engine it had when I bought it (got it very cheap) replaced radio
1981 Toyota Celica - Had it for 50k miles, didn't have to fix anything.
1970 Dodge Dart - Had it for 120k miles, had to replace engine, differential
1963 Chevy - Had it for 20k miles. Got it for $150 because owner thought the engine was blown, just needed a new carb. But so much rust! I gave up when the brake lines started going out.
Motorcycles (but just the main ones)
2006 Suzuki 650 Vstrom - 20k miles, good for touring, fun rides and around town. Only fix was starter
1975 Yamaha 650 - 50k miles, rode from Maine to Key West, NYC to San Fran and back. Had to do new shocks, generator brushes.
1970 Yamaha 350 - 30k miles, tremendous fun bike but not really good for touring. Had to replace a coil.
1969 Kawasaki 500 - 20k miles, fun bike. Has a bad rep as being dangerous, but if you don't use the throttle judiciously ANY bike will get you in trouble. Had to replace the CDI ignition system.
2022 Ford Edge Titanium 37900 miles 2.0 EcoBoost AWD 8 Speed Automatic
Personally I would give the car a 9/10. I have owned the car since the minute it came off the truck from the factory. Other than the fact that I have a strange transmission issue and a steering issue, all it has ever needed was a new turbo waste gate sensor, along with regular oil changes. It rides super nicely, though!
