I just changed the spark plugs and coil and it still doesn’t seem to have any spark.
Are you getting voltage at the coil with the ignition switched on? How old are the points and condenser? Are the points adjusted properly? Is the polarity correct on the new coil?
I switched it to an electronic ignition
That's a horse of a different color. It could also potentially be the problem. Some time ago I converted one of my older vehicles to a Pertronix ignition but it didn't last long and I reinstalled the points. It might be worth at least temporarily reinstalling the original components to see if you get spark.
Well, narrow this down.
Electronic conversion or not you still have an ignition coil and it only needs 2 voltage "inputs".
It needs Power on the + terminal
and it needs a timed "pulsating" ground on the - terminal.
So grab a Test Light. Turn the key to ON and clip the alligator clip of the test light to a good ground and check for power at the + terminal of the coil.
If you have power there:
Clip the alligator clip of the test light to the negative terminal of the coil.
Touch the probe of the test light to the + terminal of the coil.
Have somebody crank the engine.
If the test light flashes, you need a new ignition coil.
If it doesn't flash, the problem is either in your electronic ignition setup, or the distributor isn't turning.
Just did that the light didn’t come on when i touched the + terminal of the coil.
Well you have to have power to the Coil's + terminal with Key ON/START.
Try using a "jumper wire" to put 12 volts there and see if the coil works
@hotrod62 Here's your 1965 Dodge D100 wiring diagram:
CLICK TO ENLARGE
Check the ignition system and the distributer, one of the spark plugs wires could also go bad sometimes.
There no electricity coming from the coil in the first place so no electricity is going to the distributor
I would assume you've already checked the battery and the cables to the battery, maybe some faulty wiring somewhere else? Have you have verified the power when in the "on" key position? You also may need to verify that you have power when the key is turned further to the "crank" position. The crank position bypasses the resistor to get full 12v to the coil for starting. You maybe could have gotten a bad part that when out before it's time, reason why I say this is because recently I've been hearing some parts suppliers around the country having a run on bad parts for older cars. Maybe try some diagnosing everything with a test meter to make sure you're getting power from everything that's necessary to start the truck.
Have you checked your ground? Always gets me, that and the timing may be too far off.
