I daily drive a 1976 Ford F100 Custom 4WD with the original 102,000-mile Ford FE Big Block 360ci V8 carbureted engine. My goal is to make this vehicle and engine last another 100k-200k miles without any issues. Therefore, my question has 4 parts...
1.) Should I use conventional or synthetic oil in my leaking engine?
2.) Should I use E10 87oct, E10 93oct, or pure gasoline in my engine?
I am also considering a full $15,000 rebuild of the original engine to increase value including block machining, adding mild performance parts, and doing a complete revival of this engine. If I do so...
3.) Should I use conventional or synthetic oil in my zero-mile rebuilt engine?
4.) Should I use E10 87oct, E10 93oct, or pure gasoline in my zero-mile rebuilt engine?
These are questions I've always wanted to know, but never had the knowledge to answer. Remember, I'm aiming for longevity and reliability, not the most power.
@gavinhatmaker
I would stay away from the synthetic oil.It will clog up your oil and your engine will be toast.
I would use the same oil the engine is used to and designed for. Same with the fuel type.
@nick20s
But what is it designed for? I've heard good things about synthetic oil and pure gasoline cleaning old engines and fuel lines.
@gavinhatmaker I have a friend using 10W30 conventional, E10 93oct and the engine has close to 200K miles. Changing to synthetic if the engine is used to conventional can cause leaks on older engines where seals may be worn. For 0 mile engine, it is fine to start with synthetic.
- 10w30 conventional oil AND a zinc based additive such as STP, or Valvoline Racing oil. That racing oil already contains zinc which is a must for a flat tappet engine. Zinc was basically eliminated in engine oil a decade or more ago.
- Regular pump gas AND a lead additive unless the valves and valve seats have been changed to live with unleaded gasoline.
- Personally I would go with a factory built 351 Windsor of the horsepower and torque you want. Less than half the cost, fully complete to bolt in, carburetor or self contained electronic fuel injection, dyno tested, etc,and with a factory warranty. Biggest thing I don't like about the Ford Edsel (FE blocks) is the intake and exhaust valves being in the block.
- With machine work, upgrading to valves and valve seats designed for unleaded gas, and hydraulic roller tappets, modern day camshaft and engine bearings...you eliminate having to use all the additives...plus you get modern day seals and gaskets that will have a long life with any oil.
- With a built engine, I'd go with what the builder specifies. Older leaker engine, conventional oil.
- Brand name isn't too important...there are only a few companies that actually produce engine oil...as long as it has a "API" symbol on the container its been engineered, tested, and independently certified.
