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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Pre-mixed coolant vs coolant that needs to be mixed with water? | 32Relevance | 6 years ago | nayana | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I am from Sri Lanka and I have 1993 Nissan Sunny (Sentra) FB13 Power Package. It previously had pre-mixed coolant. But a carburetor repair was done yesterday and the mechanic had to drain around 1 liter of coolant out the radiator before doing the repair. (No idea why though). Anyway, I bought a coolant called TCL and the guy who sold it to me said it does not need to be mixed with water. So I bought it and the mechanic didn't really check the coolant before putting it in my radiator. But I noticed it was a kind of thick coolant. When I checked the coolant bottle, it had different ratios of how coolant needs to be mixed with water (I know... It's my fault for not properly checking the bottle before buying it) Anyway, Is this going to hurt my car in anyway? Should I drain the radiator and buy a different coolant that is pre-mixed and fill the radiator and coolant reservoir with it? Your help is much appreciated. Thank you! 🙂 Attachment : photo.jpg | |||||
| Answer to: How to fix Toyota Hilux losing coolant | 31Relevance | 5 years ago | 4QR2 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The level the water settles at in the expansion tank is based on how much water gets pushed out when the coolant heats up. So if the level settles at Low, then the coolant is expanding more than expected. Some possibilities are; - non-standard expansion tank for that engine/radiator - less space inside the coolant system. So this could be rust, sludge or a blockage. I had my radiator cleaned once just because I had it out, and they told me it was 40% blocked. I had no symptoms. - air entering the system via the suction side of the water pump. Bearing or gasket in waterpump or anywhere with negative pressure. Normally this would display as a leak when cold and not running, but stranger things have happened. - compression gases entering the coolant. You can test for this with chemical indicator. - faulty seal on radiator. Water can get pushed out when hot, but suction is not maintained to draw it back in when cooling - coolant boiling as it gradually loses it's properties over a couple of years. Get an accurate test of the water temperature, not just a C -> H gauge on the dash. Hilux temp gauge is actually built to be less responsive so drivers did not get concerned with the rapid fluctuations that occur in those engines. For example my exhaust gas temperature can go from 620°C to 200°C within a kilometre, so coolant can fluctuate wildly as well. So as people have said; eliminate air, ensure fresh coolant additive, ensure no rust (should be clean water and coolant additive, no rust), have radiator cleaned internally and externally, test for compression leak gases in coolant, check parts (radiator, tank, etc) are original spec, and pressure test the system for leaks. Don't add a coolant sealer unless all is well apart from a leakage that would be difficult to repair. Do add a rust inhibiting antifreeze that raises the boiling point, but do that after flushing the cooling system clean. The rear heater circuit adds a few complications if it is at fault. | |||||
| Frequently change the Coolant Overflow Tank | 20Relevance | 4 years ago | Ahmad Tarik | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hey! When the car reach a certain temp, the coolant flows into the coolant reservoir overflow tank. When the engine has been turned off, and cool down, the coolant will flow back into the radiator. My question, if I keep changing the coolant in the Overflow Tank frequently, does that keep the coolant system clean? instead of keep flushing the entire coolant system! | |||||
| Answer to: 2002 Yukon Oil in Coolant but not vice versa | 36Relevance | 6 years ago | WildBill | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Let me try to answer your questions and chip in my 2 cents. It is possible to have it mix both ways, but that depends on where the damage to the head gasket is located. It can fail to allow fluid one way only or both ways. Additionally, the pressure in the cylinders tends to push the oil/fuel out into the coolant versus the other way around from a physics stand point. Engine design can effect that, though. Sort of. Obviously, if they are mixing in any decent amount, you will see the tell tale signs more readily. But, if the mixing is very minute, you can send your oil off for analysis to have it checked. This is relatively cheap and easy to do during an oil change, and it gives you a report not only of if any coolant is present but other materials/metals as well with general standard metrics to compare to. This can give you a bit better view into the health of the engine in general. I wouldn't rush to put a coolant sealant additive into your car's coolant system, especially when you don't notice any dramatic mixing or drop in fluid volume indicating a leak. Most of those sealants are a temp fix and, in the long run, can gum up other parts of the coolant system that are healthy requiring additional parts and labor costs to repair later on. Based on the information provided, while it may still be a minor head gasket issue, I wonder if the car previously has a coolant system or gasket issue that a previous owner repaired the key points, but either they or their mechanic did not fully clean/check the other parts of the system. I am always an advocate of checking/testing the cheapest/easiest routes first before going down repair rabbit wholes. In this case, I would suggest to do the following: 1) Drain the engine oil and the coolant systems.2) Send the engine oil out for analysis - Google Blackstone Laboratories3) Methodically go through the coolant system pipes, overflow reservoir, and anywhere else you can check to clean out the gunk you noticed4) If the gunk can't be cleaned out, replace the part as most hoses and reservoir tanks can be purchased relatively cheaply5) Run straight water from a hose through the coolant system and flush it out thoroughly. You can also run a flush cleaning additive such as those by Preston or similar too.6) Replace the engine oil filter, refill engine oil, and refill coolant system with 50/50 compatible coolant for your vehicle Now drive the car like normal and monitor for any fluid loss/usage or mixing as you have already been doing. If nothing happens, I would guess it was previously fixed. If it occurs again, then you have a more definitely answer that it is likely a head gasket. While the steps above seem like a lot and complicated, they really aren't and can usually be done with basic tools, a Saturday, and referencing some YouTube videos for guidance. Worse case, you can have a local shop do the same for a couple hundred bucks would be my guess. Either way, well worth it compared to the several hundred to thousand dollars a head gasket repair can run on a car. | |||||
| Answer to: Waterless antifreeze | 31Relevance | 6 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I decided to do a bit of research into this. First, I checked the safety data sheet for "Evans Waterless coolant" ( It's just 90% ethylene glycol, along with some small amounts of organic esters and salt. Absolutely nothing revolutionary. Ethylene Glycol (EG) is the antifreeze we used to put in coolant, before we switched to the superior, longer lasting organic acid based coolants that we use today. It's old hat. So this product is basically pure EG. It's a terrible idea to run pure antifreeze. Water is what cools your engine. The job of the antifreeze is... surprise! keep your coolant from freezing. specific heat capacity of water = 4.19 kJ/kg-˚C specific heat capacity of pure ethylene glycol = 2.38 kJ/kg-˚C ( That means water is almost twice as effective at carrying away heat than EG) Short version: It does not cool better than manufacturer recommended coolant. It does not last longer than manufacturer recommended coolant. Avoid. | |||||
| How to fix coolant leak on VW Passat? | 20Relevance | 4 years ago | MariosPizza | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2004 VW Passat Automatic Transmission 190,000 miles My mechanic said the coolant was leaking from the engine and it was dripping coolant from the rear of the car. He fixed it but now the coolant just comes straight out the bottom of the coolant container and you can hear it leaking on the floor. I just refill it with water and coolant everyday and it runs fine. It’s hard to identify where the coolant leak is coming from? How should I fix this? Duct tape? | |||||
| Answer to: How to fix coolant leak on VW Passat? | 20Relevance | 4 years ago | MariosPizza | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2004 VW Passat 190,000 miles My mechanic said the coolant was leaking from the engine and it was dripping coolant from the rear of the car. He fixed it but now the coolant just comes straight out the bottom of the coolant container and you can hear it leaking on the floor. I just refill it with water and coolant everyday and it runs fine. It’s hard to identify where the coolant leak is coming from? How should I fix this? Duct tape? | |||||
| 2000 Lesabre 3800 series II coolant usage | 20Relevance | 4 years ago | kreed1967 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I have a 2000 Buick Lesabre with the 3800 series II V6 with 74,000 original miles. I just had the intake gaskets replaced due to coolant leakage, and all of the coolant was replaced with standard Prestone (green) coolant. I am now closely monitoring the coolant to see if it is using any. Just wondering about using the steel seal product on this engine if I detect/suspect any slight coolant usage (so far I have driven the car approximately 350-400 miles and don't see any perceptible usage). If over time I see any slight usage can I use the steel seal in the new fresh coolant without any issues in order to ward off any further consumption? | |||||
| Overheating and head gasket issues | 30Relevance | 3 years ago | Loois22 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Okay here's the deal. 2012 Chevy Cruze 1.8 manual I've had this car for about 7 years now. I've changed the thermostat like 4 times already. In 2019 the car over heated and prompted me to shut the engine off. I took it to the mechanics they told me it had a coolant leak and the head gasket was blown. They put some sealant and that seemed to have fixed it. coolant temperatures remained steady at around 210, never really dipping or climbing when in traffic. Fast forward it's 2 months ago. I noticed oil in my coolant reservoir. "Uh oh that's not good" I knew this had to mean the head gasket was bad. But before changing it, I replaced the oil cooler in the slim chance that could have been the culprit. It wasn't. Oil still continued to accumulate in the reservoir. I took off the engine head, had it machined, and replaced the head gasket. Obviously I clean the engine block and didn't notice any cracks or anything. Now by this point the coolant had turned into a milkshake. So I flushed out the system like 3 times, took off all the hoses and cleaned them, and changed the radiator. Now I know there would have had to have been some more oil residue in the coolant system (the cooling jackets in the engine, the oil cooler, and the heater core). So I know it's not 100% clean but there still seems to be some oil accumulation in the coolant reservoir. It's a thin dark film of oil sitting on top of the coolant. I've been sucking some out with a turkey baster to get rid of it. What else could it be? Idk if it is still leeching oil into the coolant system it could also be residue but idk anymore. I guess I could do a test with those color changing test to test the head gasket but I don't own one. Now pt 2 to my problem. The coolant temperature. Like I said the coolant temperature use to hover at 210. I know these cars like to run hot. But after I changed the thermostat for the 4th time. The coolant temperature has been much lower at 200. Only when I am in slow moving traffic, the temperature rises back to 215,220, I've seen it get up to 230 before it finally go back down. Idk if it's the thermostat that just decides it doesn't want to open. Or if the fan isn't doing it's job properly. The fan speeds up and slows down. But I suspect it only has high speed and off. I know the resistor on these fans tends to go out and leaves it with no low or medium speed. But I hear the fan kick on while I'm in traffic. I've tested the relays and the are operational. My final attempt is going to be to change the resistor on the fan. WTH is going on?? I just can't seem to figure out and I no longer want to keep throwing money at it if there's no solution in sight. | |||||
| Should I change the coolant | 28Relevance | 3 years ago | Kevin1527 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi everyone, I hope that you be having a good day. i recently bought a Subaru legacy 2009 2.5 in a dealership, my car comes with green coolant, the dealer told me that they make some work in the engine and I believe that part of that work was replace the coolant because the coolant is brand new. probably you know that Subaru recommends uses blue coolant, me question is: must I change the green coolant for blue coolant or I’ll be fine with the green one? I read that the colors in the coolants make it differents but I don’t know if is a big deal or if I can keep my green coolant? im trying to avoid the change because is a complicated process for me remove the coolant in the block engine, and I read in some forums of people that star to suffer head gaskets problem after a coolant change. thank you for your help. | |||||
| Help. Coolant temp fluctuation | 28Relevance | 5 years ago | Bsheaffer | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| hi there. I own a 1998 Ford Taurus SE 3.0l v6 OHV with 150k miles. I’ve had the car for a little over 2 years and have been experiencing a problem with coolant temperature fluctuation. The coolant temp gauge shows that the car temperature decreases to about 1/4 temp on the gauge and back up to operating temp while driving. Vehicle reaches full operating temp at idle. The vehicle maintains coolant temperature while driving at a fixed speed. Temp will fluctuate in stop and go traffic, but never goes above operating range. Temp will always indicate a downward trend then back to operating range. The vehicle did fail to maintain any threshold of operating temperature once, when I replaced the thermostat. The vehicle would not warm up at all. In that instance, I decided to replace with a higher performance thermostat that automatically locked open if the vehicle were to begin overheating. This thermostat did end up locking open about 1 month after installation and had to be replaced. I tossed a cheap one back in and car hasn’t failed to get up to temp ever since. Vehicle has never over heated. It has always just had a weird fluctuation between operating temperature and about 1/4 below. coolant was brown when I got it. Flushed system with distilled water and replaced with green coolant. coolant has had to be drained on 2 other occasions due to unrelated circumstances where coolant hoses were in the way of other work needing done. Always replaced with new coolant and burped system on an upwards incline for about 30 minutes. Had the car tested for any leaks in the cooling system and air system. No leaks found. This problem doesn’t really seem to affect the vehicle. Like I said, I’ve been driving it this way since I’ve owned it. I’ve not had the opportunity to actually measure the coolant temperature with a scan tool. My OBD scanner does not provide live data. However, I did replace the temp sensors and the problem persists. However, it’s a minor annoyance that I’d like to get sorted if able. thanks, brandon | |||||
| Genuine Honda Coolant Equivalent | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | Mr.Moo | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello Scotty, I have a 2015 Honda Civic that is on the minimum mark on the coolant reservoir. I will be taking a long road trip tomorrow and was wondering if I can mix the Honda coolant with another one. At the local AutoZone where I live, I found Peak OET coolant for Asian vehicles. This coolant says it is equivalent to Honda coolant and also has a blue color. Will it harm my vehicle if I mix these coolants together? P.S. If I do mix these coolants together, I plan on draining the cooling system in probably like 2 weeks when I return with only Genuine Honda coolant so that it does not cause future damage | |||||
| Toyota Red vs Pink Coolant | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | vutang01 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I changed the coolant on my 2002 Solar a year ago with the Toyota Long Life coolant (Red). Is this different from the Toyota Super Long Life coolant (pink)? I saw you video on HOAT coolant and trying to determine if the red is a HOAT, OAT, or IAT. I read that the red coolant is only for 2 years or 30k miles, not sure if this is true. Should I flush it out then and replace it with the pink? FYI I flushed my Kawasaki motorcycle with and filled it with the red coolant as well. Is that okay? | |||||
| Can you help me with my 2000 Camaro SS please? | 30Relevance | 5 years ago | Viniepooh44 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hello Scottie, can you help? Would love to hear your opinion. Half a year ago I bought a 2000 Camaro SS m6. It have a 5.3 iron block with 383 wiesco stroker kit, PRC heads, cam, what I believe to be an ls2 or 3 intake and other supporting modes, which dynoed at 485hp. I drove from TN to MI About 500 miles if not more on it just fine. Then one day I was doing some work on it and drained coolant. When added it back up I messed up and didn’t add as much as I needed. Long story short I wasn’t on highway or anything, near the house when I caught it overheating. Temp went close to 230-240 and I had to make few stops to cool down to get it back home. After that and adding rest of a coolant I began having strange issues. First is that w coolant itself. It seamed to be a never ending adding of it ever since. This is what the first prob. Let’s say you added a coolant to a radiator neck and overflow have it at full cold, then you drive for 100 miles or so and then next morning rad needs another quart to get to where it was, however overflow now at full hot. However if drained back to full cold and added whats extra back to a radiator radiator mark does go up but not all way to where it was before the trip. Another thing I noticed that if those 100 miles were hard driven like these cars should be driven to enjoy then my oil level gets down to a pint. If I drive it gently just cruising no oil is used. Now as Disclaimer when I bought her and drove 500 miles it was a winter and I never was hard on her at all, so I can’t say if this oil thing is some I got her with or not. However coolant was checked before that trip and never needed to be added the next morning. And lastly one last weird thing: because of those issues I been watching both coolant and oil closely for two month checking them after every trip to kinda give myself a statistics. Having said that I prob checked oil 30 times in last 3 month and twice I had a very strange experience w it. On a dipstick right above oil level after about an inch or two away from it closer to the top I have found coolant. Almost like it drips on a dipstick but how? What do you think is happening? Now here are the things I’ve done and their results. I have done compression test twice to different days weeks appart, doing each cylinder 3 times each time, holding each for 4 or 5 strokes. Both times engine was almost cold since after warming it it takes quiet some time to take all plugs off. All cylinders pump almost identically 1 stroke 110ish 2-160ish 3-180s and stoping at around 195-200psi. None is behind others all literally almost identical. Spark plugs to my inexperienced eyes based on online information looked normal though I’ve replaced them anyways. Only one had oil on its thread however the element and tip part of it was identical to the rest of them. I did or should I say tried doing a leakage test. That went inconclusive because as I tried holding that tube above the radiator neck for some reason my test wouldn’t come out as peoples online and I kepped on loosing the liquid down the radiator instead of it staying there and changing or what not color. So that was inconclusive. All I can say is that while holding a tube over the rad as it drained into it it did changed in color from good blue to somewhat of deluded dirty and light blue, almost starting to change to loose that blue vibe. But then again, I never managed to finish the test as intended. I also replaced and tested radiator cap and Replaced overflow tank. I had oil out of car twice in a see through bucket for weeks looking for coolant presence and their separation but nothing at all was found. I was hoping one of them had a leak preventing a pressure build and further preventing a coolant to drain back to radiator. I’ve also pressurized rad by pumping 17 merc in it and watch over it. What I found was that if engine is cold and rest is done then it holds 17 for half hour untill I take it down, however once I ran a test after idling it for 30 min, and it went from 17 to 14 in about 15 min when I stoped the test. I know the law of Pascal but Does it seam normal? So my biggest question is what is going on w it? Could of head gasket been overheated and raptured at the part of it which does not loose compression but does allow coolant to escape? And what is up w inconsistent oil consumption? Could of heads developed a crack? Did I overheat and damage valve guides and seats? Lastly few days ago I stoped driving it because of a third what could appear to be unrelated but (I believe they do) event. You see ever since the overheat, I’ve noticed gradual fuel consumption increase and at idle the car would put out gas smell in garage but all still seamed normal as it is after all build and crammed stroker. However more time went by more fumes it pumped at warm up and recently when I started her up, at some point I could see half of a car let alone breath, even though idle seamed just as it was before. I have a small 50$ scan tool which shows min info, I plugged it in but couldn’t find anything unusual other then what it appeared to me it’s fuel trim and air to fuel ratio was jumping from 13-22 at idle. Vacuum reads 15-16 at idle instead of 20. Both O2s active. Maf changes it’s value gradually w throttle, same as Tps. Haven’t checked IAC. Lastly When I went to raise it, I saw a two coolant drops on bottom of water pump w a trace of them coming from around its pulley. At this point I know I have problems but I don’t exactly know what it is. I know it’s a lot to read but if you’re reading this then you took your time and I appreciate this. Please help with your advise. Thank you | |||||
| Coolant in car | 20Relevance | 5 years ago | Cars | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi, i was woundering about cars coolant and can i fill it myself? And is it that the coolant comes in green and redish color only? And is it so that if the car has that redish looking coolant color then u add more of that redish color coolant? Green and red color coolant could not be mixed together right? Only that same color coolant? | |||||