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| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Answer to: High pitch noise bmw N52 engine | 22Relevance | 4 years ago | Kaizen | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I had a similar problem with my N52 engine. It was like a high pitched noise. But if I stopped and restarted the engine, it would go away. I never really bothered to fix it. With that said? When I changed the valve cover itself, the problem seemed ti have gone away. There is some sort of valve that is built into the valve cover. If you remove the Beauty cover, and you are looking at the engine from the front, it is located at the top back left. | |||||
| RE: 2014 Xterra spark plug gap question | 22Relevance | 4 years ago | blah | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| it's possible the gap was from the factory (spark plug manu) th "beauty cover" may never have been there my 08 has all the attachment points for the cover but never had a cover my .02c | |||||
| RE: 80s supercar poll | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | HillBilly | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Ah, well Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder. I think the Testerosa looks the best. Bimmer would be last of the 3 re: Beauty in my eyes. | |||||
| Answer to: Valve cover gasket replacement gone wrong | 25Relevance | 4 years ago | DontKnowler | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 1. Put some improvised cover like some sort of a clean rag or a stretchable wrapping film or else over the engine / whole motor compartment - that is what Ive done many times. No use being overly concerned about cleanness here: dust contained in normal air is not a threat. 2. Normally one should first clean and degrease all the surroundings, and only start removing the valve cover afterwards. But your situation is not a drama either: now that your cover is already off, you might (and this is what Ive done it in a similar situation) want to just get a powerful industrial vacuum cleaner, which is not afraid of any kind of dirt and liquids, and vacuum-clean the area. If any sticky dirt remains, take pieces of clean fabric, and maybe an old toothbrush as well, and carefully wipe the sticky dirt off, with or without solvent, directing all your wipe movements away from the open engine internals. It requires some patience, but it is not a difficult job, and nothing to be afraid of doing. Afterwards, clean all the residual particles off using the vacuum cleaner. If you are careful like me, your engine will be saved 😉 I also use small amounts of alcohol to do the final clean pass on the surfaces which come in contact with the gasket. 3. Are you sure that grime and dirt are the only things holding the gasket on the engine head? Sometimes, when engine parts get warped due to engine overheating, previous owners try stopping leaks (which are no more stoppable by plain gasket replacement) by glueing the gaskets to engine heads using everything they have at hand as glue. Unfortunately, this band aid too often does work short-term - just enough for the previous owner to get rid of the car. However a glued gasket is not necessarily a sign of severe engine damage due to engine overheating: sometimes owners / bad mechanics try reusing an old gasket after doing some work under the head cover just cause they do not have a suitable new replacement gasket at hand; then they understand that the old reinstalled gasket leaks, and try reinstalling it once again - this time with excessive amounts of some glue or sealant... I am not trying to scare you: just recommending, that if you find out that your gasket is glued to the engine head, you (after you cleaned the glue off) might want to check the flatness of the respective engine head and valve cover surfaces to make sure those are not warped. Warped surfaces can still be repaired, but it is a huge expensive job for a workshop which has certain machinery. 4. No idea. 5. Probably you cannot figure out the exact leak location cause the leak was happening not in a certain spot, but along a long line - maybe even all around the gasket. Hence, the gasket probably looks fine cause it is mechanically undamaged: it does not have any specific weak spots which would leak, but is just unable to do its job - either cause the engine surfaces which come in contact with the gasket are warped, or, in the best-case scenario, cause the gasket may be so old and therefore so hard, that it simply does not have the elasticity to seal anything any more. I sincerely hope that in your situation the latter is the case. "having issues with an easy level task is discouraging"Based on my long-year experience, when working on my cars, I always pre-assume that every task will be harder and take longer than expected, will have hiccups not described even in the dealer documentation, and may reveal problems previously unnoticed. C est la vie - I am already used to it. But having coped with it in the end brings a pleasant feeling of accomplishment 🙂 | |||||
| Answer to: Engine beauty cover and hood liner | 25Relevance | 3 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| The cover weighs the same as a couple of soft drinks . It's going to make absolutely zero difference to your performance. you want hear the annoying buzz of a 150hp 4 banger? | |||||
| Answer to: 2007 Nissan Altima Won't Start Suddenly | 22Relevance | 3 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Oil gets into the spark plug tubes (and onto the spark plugs) ((and ignition coils)) when the spark plug tube seals in the plastic valve cover(s) fail. You didn't say if they have the 4 cylinder engine (1 valve cover) or the 6 cylinder engine (2 valve covers) but it doesn't matter. You can't replace the spark plug tube seals in the plastic valve cover(s) on either of those engines. You have to replace the valve covers. Of course you have to replace the valve cover gasket(s) when you do the job too as well as the spark plugs. I just did a valve cover, valve cover gasket replacement on a 4 cylinder Altima a few months ago. Same problem that you're having now. One of two things happen when the spark plug tube gasket fails. 1) The oil shorts out the ignition coil, destroys the ignition coil, and the cylinder(s) doesn't get spark. 2) The spark shorts on the outside of the oily ignition coil to the outside of the oily spark plug instead of jumping the spark plug gap and the cylinder(s) misfires but the ignition coil isn't damaged. So it's important to disassemble any coil that's covered in oil that still works and clean all the oil out of the inside and off of the outside of the ignition coil. I used dish soap and water. The image shows the 2 coils on the right are covered in oil from leaky spark plug tube seals | |||||
| Answer to: Corolla timing cover and chain replacement! | 21Relevance | 2 years ago | Hixster | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You don't need top replace a timing cover unless it's been damaged. If your oil leak is small, and say it doesn't spot the ground or wet the engine and there's no smell/odor/smoke, heck you really don't have to fix it. That engine can get a small leak right where the tensioner and chain cover meet. Also the tensioner can be replaced without taking the timing chain cover off. | |||||
| Answer to: 2009 Toyota Highlander Timing Cover Replacement | 21Relevance | 4 years ago | toyotagrl | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| There's no way the entire timing cover is $25. Likely the timing cover sealant to reseal it, and yes, it's a BIG job. Because of what's involved to reseal the timing cover, the engine comes out of the car which is why it's booked at 24 hrs. Is it necessary? Eventually, but it depends on how bad the leak is. But you need to see if the timing cover leak has just started and is just seeping or if it's been leaking for a while and beyond just living with it. Here's a video on what's involved. | |||||
| Answer to: 1989 ford ranger can’t shift out of 1st gear | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | jack62 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| First let me say you made a wise choice. These old Rangers are affordable, dependable, and easy to work on. The manual transmission ones are even better. I have a 2001 3.0L automatic. Almost 200,000 miles and zero complaints. So 1st, look under the hood and make sure your hydraulic clutch reservoir has brake fluid in it. If it has fluid in it, move on. This sounds like an issue with the shift interlock in the top cover of your transmission. So to wrap your head around this think about how you shift. You move the shifter in 2 directions to select a gear. Side to Side and Front to Back. Center is neutral. You pull the shifter towards you and then move it forward to select 1st gear, and then back to select 2nd gear. Then you move the shifter back to the the point between 1st and 2nd, across (away from you) through the neutral position and forward to select 3rd gear and back to select 4th gear. And you do the same motion again only farther away from you and then forward to select 5th gear of back to select Reverse. When you make that sideways motion you're selecting which Shift Fork Rail you're moving. When you make the forward or reverse motion you're moving that individual shift fork in either a forward or reverse direction. (selecting that gear) So let's look at all 3 of those shift rails, and the 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th gear shift forks. (The 5th gear / Reverse shift fork is deeper down and behind the rear extension housing of the transmission, you can't see it from here. CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE Notice the 3 shift rails and how the shift forks move on them. The 1st/2nd gears shift rail is on the bottom of the picture. The 1st/2nd gear shift fork is attached to it. The 3rd/4th gears shift rail is in the middle. The 3rd/4th gear shift fork is attached to it. The 5th gear and reverse shift rail is at the top. Like I said, you can't see that shift fork from here. Now look at your shift knob. Notice how the horizontal line represents which of the 3 shift rails that you're selecting. Notice how the vertical lines represent which way you're moving the shift fork on the shift rail you selected. Be patient with me I'm getting to the point. Each of those shift forks have 3 positions. The forward position engages one gear. The back position engages the other gear. And they have a middle Neutral position. So let's take the 3rd/4th gear shift fork for an example but it holds true for all 3 rails. Because of the interlock built into the Shift rail selector (this is what your gear shifter's stub is mounted into) You can't move that 1st/2nd gear shift fork unless the 3rd/4th gear shift fork is in its neutral position. So you're stuck in 1st gear if the interlock pins aren't working right or the 3rd/4th shift fork is so worn that it isn't centered in the 3rd/ 4th gear "neutral position" and the interlock isn't "releasing" the 1st/2nd gear shift rail to allow movement of that rail. So like I said, you have a Ranger and this ain't bad. You pull out the seat, remove the floor covering, and remove the floor pan access plate to the top of your transmission. Remove the 10 bolts on the top cover of the transmission and you have that Top cover off and you can examine the interlock, the rails, and the 2 shift forks. Just one more thing you may want to try 1st. There's a stub which your gear shifter is attached to which controls those shift rails. It wears out. It's an easy replacement. You don't have to remove the top cover or the floor pan cover to replace it. Maybe give it a try 1st. You can buy the kits on ebay for around $40. Even if it isn't the problem, on your 32 year old Ranger, if you wind up pulling the top cover off of the transmission, you'll want to replace this anyway. So your transmission is a M5OD-R1 transmission. Plenty of youtubes and internet information on everything about that one. | |||||
| Answer to: What is the purpose of all that black plastic atop the engine compartment? | 22Relevance | 5 years ago | Kaizen | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ... the radiator probably does most of the work). If I had to rationalize the black cover, my thinking for more modern cars reliant on electronics like BMW's, it adds an additional layer of defense against water intrusion. It seems that everything attached to the BMW engine is electronically controlled. And while it is highly unlikely that water will get up under the hood, it is another line of protection. But really, when it comes down to it, it's just a stupid Beauty cover. | |||||
| Answer to: 3 engine oil leaks in one year (timing cover)(2016 v6 4x4 tacoma) | 21Relevance | 4 years ago | Doc | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Depends on where on the timing cover it's leaking from. The harmonic balancer mounts through a seal on the timing cover. If there is a groove worn into the nose of the balancer and they didn't use a repair sleeve on it, it will leak, even if a new main seal was used. It's always a good idea to get a new balancer when replacing the timing cover with a new main seal. You need to find out specifically where, on the timing cover, it is leaking from. | |||||
| Answer to: Oil leaking from valve cover head | 21Relevance | 4 years ago | Kaizen | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| From top to bottom, here are the parts of the engine. I always thought the head gasket was the very top of the engine, but it is not. Heck I don’t even know the proper names, just the general location of each. Valve cover Valve cover Gasket Head cover Head cover Gasket Cylinder Block Oil Pan | |||||
| Answer to: Oil on top of engine beauty cover | 21Relevance | 3 years ago | MountainManJoe | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| RE: Use Loctite on beauty cover bolt? | 21Relevance | 3 years ago | Kaizen | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I’m curious, have you ever in all you experience seen a nut come loose with a lock washer? Or even no washer? | |||||
| RE: Use Loctite on beauty cover bolt? | 21Relevance | 3 years ago | Devin8778 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| None of them have come loose in the past, and I have been driving with it in, no lock tight and it is doing A-OK! Thank you all for your advice. | |||||