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Search result for: 2003 e320 wheel bearing
| # | Post Title | Result Info | Date | User | Forum |
| Possible Camry hybrid transmission problem | 24Relevance | 2 years ago | SeatonBM | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Is this a transmission/PSD issue? Can it be fix, or is a transmission/PSD replacement in my future? Or is it nothing? (Camry hybrid) Does anyone else's car do this? Anything I can do to fix this or figure out why it is doing this? The TLDR is: I have a 2014 Toyota Camry XLE Hybrid. Recently I have noticed that when I take my foot off the gas (especially at highway speeds) the car sort of jerks when I let off the gas, and jerks again if I hit the gas a gain... It's hard to describe this accurately, jerk is sort of a harsh word - but it's like it doesn't shift smoothly, though being a CVT, I would almost liken the feeling like as if the CVT transmission "belt" were stretched out, or something, and had some play in it when I let my foot off the gas/re-engage the gas... It makes no noises, and other than this, it drives pretty normally. This primarily happens when I am trying to keep a speed or accelerating, then say a car ahead of me hits the brake or something, and I let off the gas, to coast, then hit the gas to maintain speed or accelerate if able. It doesn't always occur, but it primarily happens in such a situation. Especially if I am accelerating, then let off suddenly, or suddenly accelerate again... If I ease into letting off/on, it usually transitions somewhat smoothly. I thought maybe it's a transmission/engine mount, but... When I Rev the engine with the hood open with the car parked, the engine doesn't move, really at all. I won't lie, I do drive the car a little hard, hard acceleration, etc... But I also baby the car in other ways, for example I always come to a complete stop before shifting between reverse and drive, I usually even avoid go from neutral to any gear if the car is in motion (like leaving a car wash, I try to brake to a stop before shifting). I avoid bumps, or take them slow, etc. One key thing that happened recently, is that I replaced the CV axle assemblies and transmission fluid. I only mention this because I bought the fluid and axles from my local Toyota dealership, but they sold me a 26 spline driver side axle... Long story as to how I came to realizing this - let's just say I had to replace both the driver axle and front wheel bearing/hub twice because the original axle/hub was a 30 spline (and the passenger side axle/hub both original and replacement had 30 splines, why would the driver side be 26 splines if the passenger side is 30 splines, and the driver side hub was 30 splines originally). I replaced the driver side axle with the 26 spline axle Toyota sold me unaware it was not 30 spline axle, where the replacement hub was a 30 spline hub... I came to this realization after getting about half a mile from my house on a test drive, without my cell phone, everything was great until it wasn't, the driver side axle started spinning freely inside the hub, tearing splines up and, and causing the axle nut that I torqued to 213ft/lbs to essentially spin freely (took about half a mile to loosen up I guess), cross threading it bad enough I had to cut it off... I pushed the car back home (after walking home, getting the wife and kid, and walking back to the car - and that is why you never test drive without a cell phone). I spoke to Toyota, they swear up and down that they sold me the correct part for my VIN#. I am still of the belief that isn't correct... But I bought another 26 spline axle and a 26 spline hub, pressed the new hub/bearing and installed the new axle, and everything seems generally good as new. It's possible this jerky feeling I am feeling has always been there, and now I am hyper sensitive to it after doing all this car work, but... I am just now taking notice of it anyways. But it feels like it has to be kind of hard on the transmission/PSD when it happens, over time. Additional question: Does it seem like time to prepare for a replacement transmission/PSD? Does the 2014 Toyota Camry XLE Hybrid share the same transmission/PSD as the Lexus ES300h? Both seem to use the same part # (30900-33030 or 33040 or 33053). Based on the part # alone, I'd say yes, but...Some places say no when I do a compatibility check with my car. And for that matter, does the Camry and ES300h use the same hybrid battery G9510-33050, I have been starting the prep/search for a good price for a new battery (from Toyota, no 3rd party), as I am probably on borrowed time with the original. Further information/History: I've owned the car since 2016, and roughly since 30,000 miles - my father bought the car certified used from the dealership around 28,000 miles, and then passed away shortly afterwards, and I essentially inherited the car... It now has over 183,000 miles (mostly highway), and for the most part, it's still going strong! Up until a little bit ago, it was mostly all original parts - but recently I've replaced (mostly doing my own repairs/maintenances): -Both CV axle assemblies (Toyota)-Passenger side CV bearing support bracket (DuraLast/AutoZone)-Both front knuckles (TRQ/A1-Auto)-All 4 wheel bearings and hub (fronts are SKF, rears unknown - a shop did those)-All 4 struts/springs (KYB)-All 4 sway bar links (Toyota)-Both front lower control arms (Toyota)-Both front tie rods (not sure brand, a shop did those)-Both front brake calipers (DuraLast/AutoZone)-All 4 wheel's ceramic brake pads and coated rotors (Wagner)-Front driver speed sensor (DuraLast/AutoZone)-12 Volt battery (Toyota)-Air conditioner blower fan (Um... RockAuto, forget brand)-Engine radiator/AC condenser cooling fans (TYC)-All 4 spark plugs (Denso)-All 4 TPMS sensors (Denso) And other miscellaneous stuff like fog and headlight light bulbs, tires, etc. I've also had the wheel balance and alignment checked recently. I have also religiously performed oil changes with new crush washers and Toyota oil filters, engine air filter, cabin air filters, all maintenances at scheduled intervals (oil changes were done every 10,000 miles when the car was mostly a highway car - now I do oil every 5,000 miles as I don't drive nearly as much on the highway as I use to). the transmission fluid has also been replaced first around 100,000 miles (mostly highway miles), and it was replaced again about 75,000 miles later (technically it was replaced a 3rd time about 6,000 miles afterwards, sort of by accident - I replaced the CV axles, lost some fluid, went to top the fluid off and mindlessly opened the drain plug - so I filled it up with all new fluid), always using Toyota ATF-WS transmission fluid, and replaced crush washers. the coolant (both inverter and engine) and brake fluid also have been routinely changed, and the hybrid filter routinely cleaned. Spark plugs were replaced at 125,000 miles. This car is religiously maintained! And I use proper torque specs/torque wrench when tightening bolts/screws! And the car is essentially all stock, no mods. Unrelated but interesting side note: It was rather surprising to me when my engine radiator/AC condenser cooling fans failed. I learned of this issue when my AC quit blowing cold unless I was moving, but if I idled at a traffic light or parked, the AC would blow warm. Which naturally made me think the condenser was unable to radiate the heat from the compressor unless air was passing by it while moving. When parked, a fan moves air past the condenser, but because the fan failed, this wasn't occurring. To my surprise when I looked at the fan, neither the condenser nor engine radiator fan were working. My best theory is, unless they some how failed at the same time (unlikely) the engine radiator fan failed first, but went unnoticed because the engine never overheated, though further interesting is the fact that even when both fans failed, the engine still never overheated, probably because as I am moving, air passes through it - and when I am still, the engine kicks off and the car runs on the hybrid battery. The engine never overheated, and replacing both fans (an assembly) fixed my AC issue, it now blows cold all the time when on. Given I've literally replaced the AC blower fan, and the engine radiator and AC condenser fans by this point... Maybe I might want to consider getting a spare hybrid battery cooling fan on hand. Seems like fans have not been this car's point of focus in quality. | |||||
| Answer to: Side swiped accident | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | dlevihaynes | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2013 Honda Civic base model automatic. Someone sideswiped me, front wheel needed replacement and back tire had a blow out. I changed all 4 wheels and the bad tire. Car pulls to the right just a tad since the accident. Struts look good. Independent mechanic worried could be a wheel bearing. Can mechanics just inspect the wheel bearing before changing them and can you change one bearing at a time? Or am I worried for nothing and the car just needs a 4 wheel alignment. What’s the most cost effective and hassle free way to go about this process? I’m figuring this out as I go. | |||||
| 2001 HYUNDAI SANTA FE 4WD | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | Chopstikboi | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ANYONE HAVE EVER PREFORMED A REAR wheel bearing REPLACEMENT? I am trying to replace it the easiest way without to taking the CV AXLE off. The hub and the bearing doesnt go as one unit, its just a hub with the studs and wheel bearing in the housing with the snap ring holding it. I read manual, it says to take the parking brake, then removing mounting bolts off then jumps to pressing old bearing out. I have never done this in this kind of set up. Any suggestions would be appreciated. | |||||
| RE: Wheel Bearing Adjustment/ Need New Bearing Already? | 24Relevance | 4 years ago | Chuck Tobias | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I figured the races were replaced, just wanted to touch all bases. The bearings need to be heavily packed with grease so it's squeezing out between the rollers and the cage. I have a bearing packer to do that but it's not tough to do by hand. | |||||
| Answer to: 2014 Audi A3 worth repairing? | 24Relevance | 3 years ago | imBANO | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Thanks for responding. 116,000km mileage location is Asia actually, which makes the economics slightly different, though I think the context would be similar to a high COL city in the US (prices converted to USD). I’m already the 4th owner of the vehicle, and the previous owner does not have the maintenance logs. He was moving overseas and pretty much sold it at a bit above scrap value. The car body was priced at ~$2500 (excluding taxes and vehicle usage fees, of which there is quite a lot where I live). I was planning to only use it for a year more. Had a mechanic expect it and he said it’s good enough for that time frame. In terms of what I “feel”, the transmission seems to be a bit slow downshifting, causing a loud hum and higher revs when decelerating (e.g. exiting an expressway). The ride is also bumpier than what you’d expect for an Audi. There’s also a billiard ball / marble dropping sound at times, which I know is the wheel bearing. Other than that, driving experience is pretty good. The car also sounds fine while idle. The shop sent the following comments with pictures. - Linkage rod worn and bush crack- Fan belt and tensioner worn and fray- Engine mounting worn and sunken in- Rear absorber worn and oil seepage- Front Absorber worn and rubber missing- Front brake disc worn and brake pad left 5%- Lower arm worn and bush crack Below is the full list that they gave. The recommend replacing some parts because they’re quite worn as it’s a 9 year old car, hitting 120K km mileage. 1. (done) Servicing Castrol 5W40 4.5L With Oil Filter2. (done) Roof Lining (vehicle sold as is with this cosmetic issue)3. (done) Key Battery 20324. (done) Air Filter5. (done) AIR-CON Filter6. (done) Brake Fluid7. (done) Gearbox Oil8. (done) Labour cost for Gearbox Oil replacement9. Ignition Coils10. (done) Spark Plug11. (done) Labour cost for Ignition Coils and SparkPlug replacement12. Fan Belt Replacement with Labour Charges13. Fan Belt Tensioner14. Timing Belt Replacement with Labour Charges15. (done) Front Brake Pad16. (done) Front Brake Disc17. (done) Labour cost for Front Brake Disc and Pad replacement18. (done) Wiper Blade19. Lower Arm20. Labour cost for Lower Arm replacement21. Lower Arm Ball Joint22. Front Linkage23. Labour cost for Front Linkage replacement24. Engine Mounting 1set Replacement with Labour Charges25. Engine Mounting Subframe BushReplacement with Labour Charges26. Front Shock Absorber27. Labour cost for Front Shock Absorber replacement28. Front Shock Absorber Cover29. Front Shock Absorber Mounting30. Front wheel bearing31. Labour cost for Front wheel bearing replacement32. Rear Shock Absorber33. Labour cost for Rear Shock Absorber replacement34. Rear Shock Absorber Cover35. Rear Shock Absorber Mounting36. Front Shock Absorber Stopper37. (done) Front Tires x238. (done) Computerised 4 wheel Alignment I’d say I already had the “essential works” done, but am debating whether it’s worth keeping the car longer. Thanks. | |||||
| Stuck Axle Bearing | 24Relevance | 4 years ago | Nicolelexus | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Greetings from Baltimore! I just bought a used 2007 Lexus GS 350. The mileage is 143,900. My mechanic looked at it and suggested that it was in great shape. I had to get some work done to change the front two axles and brakes. The right front passenger axle bearing is immovable. I took it to a Nissan dealership shop near my home and they couldn’t remove the axle either. I watched a guy use all kinds of tools and techniques to loosen the bearing. He even pulled out a torch and melted my oil sensor trying to release the bearing. The mechanic mentioned that my upper oil pan might have to be replaced in order to remove the axle . Now my car sounds like a train chugging from the front right passenger wheel. Is there any hope to fix the vehicle or should I just trade it in for a newer model? Thanks for your advice ! | |||||
| Answer to: Should I replace just the wheel bearing or the whole hub assembly? | 24Relevance | 3 years ago | InThrustWeTrust | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| You’ll have to wait for inputs from others regarding TRQ parts. But yeah, that price is indeed suspicious.. Scotty has said good things about Dorman parts - In my experience, I have found that OEM wheel bearings last the absolute longest (compared to discount aftermarket parts). All the best. | |||||
| Answer to: After getting Front Wheel Bearing changed by a mechanic with 1 year warranty, 7 months later bearing goes out again. Mechanic says might have to charge me again | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | scottykilmer | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Well they're full of s*** hubs Don't Make any noise the bearing is pressed on the hub and the bearings the only thing I can make the noise they just did a sloppy job putting it in that's a good company they just did bad work | |||||
| RE: steering wheel vibration when braking | 24Relevance | 3 years ago | AnthonyInCincy | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| When brakes are applied, you can feel it through all the seats, in the brake pedal (pulsing) and in the steering wheel (oscillating). I agree, it’s odd that swapping rotors fixed it but only for a short period. I don’t think it’s a wheel bearing since I don’t have any of the other symptoms of them going out, and because it only happens under breaking. If it were a wheel bearing I would expect it to have a direct correlation to wheel speed and also while not braking. Any other suggestions or thoughts? | |||||
| Clutch noise | 24Relevance | 2 years ago | CreepingD | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| 2016 scion TC standard transmission When clutch is out engine idling in neutral, I hear a bearing which I’m assuming is the dastardly input shaft bearing that’s an issue on the EB60 transmissions. Should I spend the 5k to rebuild it and hope the updated bearing design doesn’t fail? And can I still drive it on my 50 mile each way commute? It has 76k miles on it. When I do the work I’ll change out the clutch plate, pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and possibly the master and slave clutch cylinders. Is that overkill and am I missing anything? Thanks for the help I just got this thing a week ago from a dealer. Sigh | |||||
| Answer to: 2010 scion humming sound under the hood | 24Relevance | 6 years ago | scottykilmer | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Generally knows like that are bearings could be any bearing engine bearing transmission bearing water pump bearing alternator bearing so do my video finding the source of car noises Scotty | |||||
| Answer to: 2017 Jeep Renegade 50,000 mile clutch problem | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | Doc | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| If you're going to replace it, replace everything - clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing. Check the clutch slave cylinder for smooth operation. Get the flywheel resurfaced if it looks burnt or cracked. Tighten down the pressure in stages to the proper torque. Lubricate the clutch arm pivot joint liberally. If you get the flywheel resurfaced, make sure to use Blue Locktite and torque to specifications. Most clutch kits come with a centering tool to line up the splines of the trans input shaft and clutch disc. If you can't get the old pilot bearing out, pack it full of grease, get a metal rod a little smaller than the input diameter, cover the bearing with a rag and smack the rod with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure will pop the bearing right out. | |||||
| Timing belts and kits | 24Relevance | 5 years ago | Crell4 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| Hi, Gates makes a blue extended wear a timing belt that is good for at least 100K miles, but they don't make it for every vehicle. I have one in my beloved 99 Camry. More importantly, be careful not to install a Chinese made idler bearing or tensioner bearing. When you buy the Gates Timing belt kits, they now slip in at least one Chinese made bearing. I bought all my kit parts individually from rock auto and Amazon. I bought both KOYO Japanese made idler and tensioner bearings, which is what came on your RAV4 stock. Japanese NSK bearings are good too. KOYOs are the best bearings you can buy, even better than USA made Timkin. I'm not 100% sure of this, but I believe a Chinese bearing will always say CHINA on it and have bluish green dirt seals, whereas a KOYO bearing has a clay red dirt seal like these; Make sure all other components like the water pump and oil pump are AISIN which is Toyota-owned. | |||||
| Replaced Wheel Bearing, but There is a New Noise | 24Relevance | 2 years ago | ccsiv0329 | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| I replaced my driver's side rear wheel bearing and hub assembly within the last couple days since I was experiencing a lot of road noise coming from that area. Replacing the bearing fixed the noise, but I am noticing a new noise that is small and doesn't get louder with speed. I can only hear it when driving through my neighborhood less than 20 mph and have my window rolled down. Any higher speed and the noise gets covered up by the sound of the engine and the normal sounds of a car when increasing speed. I am not really sure what this could be as the noise doesn't get louder with speed. I originally thought maybe it could be the brake pad and rotor rubbing since I had to remove those when I replaced the hub assembly, but I am not seeing excess brake dust, and I feel like if that were the case, the noise would get louder with speed. Not sure what else this could be. Any ideas? | |||||
| damaged wheel bearing | 24Relevance | 3 years ago | Hugo Ribeiro | Submit Your Question HERE | |
| ! I have a 2020 toyota corolla hybrid, and the wheel bearing is damaged, is that possible to chenge only the bearing? | |||||