Greetings to the community!
On February, I bought a 2007 Lexus ES350 base with 95k miles that had been sitting for a year or more. I changed all fluids and some suspension parts and it has been driving amazingly until I flushed the transmission (cooling line method with Aisin WS fluid) and changed the filter. I leveled the car to almost perfection using a torpedo level under it and warmed the transmission fluid to 110°F, then drain the fluid until small drip. (Like manual says)
The problem is that (only when cold started) it flares when shifting from 2-3 and 3-4 for a while until fluid warms up past 170°F. Then it shifts amazingly smooth again. So the problem is only when transmission is cold. (The car is in Miami btw)
I have read on the Internet that this transmission (U660e) had problems at the begining (lucky me) but Lexus eventually fixed them. So I went to the "Stealership" but they told me my VIN was not included in the service bulletin; that they could do an update and reset of the TCM (for $300) but it would probably fix anything.
So now I wanted to ask about your thoughts, recommendations, and maybe experience about this issue.
Btw, I was thinking about two options:
1. Getting one of those Techstream devices and trying to update and reset the TCM myself.
2. Since the problem is only when fluid is cold, my logic says that there might not be enough fluid so I was thinking about adding 100ml everyday too see if it gets better (stopping at 300ml or 400ml to avoid overfilling too much) .
Any input will be greatly appreciated and welcome!
I flushed the transmission (cooling line method with Aisin WS fluid)
how did you flush it exactly? Did you change the filter?
I was thinking about adding 100ml everyday too see if it gets better
set it to the correct level according to the manufacturer's instructions.
(see Car Care Nut on Youtube)
Getting one of those Techstream devices and trying to update and reset the TCM myself.
I think that's going to cost more than $300, and you need to know what you're doing.
But it does shift smoothly when warm, how is that possible?
Disconnected the Tranny cooling line from the radiator, added fluid, turn the engine over for 3-5 secs (black fluid came out the disconnected cooling line), added more fluid, and kept doing it till clean fluid came out, then adjusted fluid level according to manual. (Leveled it, warmed it to 110°F, and drained excess).
Already set to correct level.
Thanks for your time btw!
By interrupting fluid from the radiator, you may have starved the transmission of fluid. ATF added through the fill plug or dipstick tube goes right to the bottom, potentially bypassing critical components.
Professional fluid replacement machines send the new fluid right back to where it was taken out so there's no interruption.
Flow rate changes with fluid temperature, and the whole shifting mechanism operates on fluid pressure.
Transmission pumps (which have to work hard when cold) just wear out.
Additionally, parts shrinks when cold, and worn parts will no longer seal they way they're supposed to.
An obstructed filter reduces hydraulic pressure and can cause shift delays.
95k miles is too late to be changing ATF , as evidenced by the "black" fluid that came out. It should never get black. The damage may already be done, and you don't know how the previous owner drove it.
This "flaring" will cause additional damage.
If I was inspecting this car for purchase, and I saw black fluid, I would have walked away.
I would NOT add more fluid. Doing so could cause damage.
If I were you I would simply let the car warm up before driving off, and baby it until the transmission gives out completely.
Here's a clip of the "flare" you can see how the transmission goes up and then shifts to 4th gear.
But it does shift smoothly when warm, how is that possible?
The transmission fluid will flow more readily when hot.
It helps to know the characteristics and failure modes of the specific transmission you're working with. For example, on a ZF 4HP18 transmission, flaring on the 3-4 shift can be caused by a weak or broken accumulator spring in the valve body rather than worn friction material. (I'm not saying that's the cause of your issue, it's just an example I'm familiar with.)
Either have your transmission evaluated by an expert or at least grab a shop manual for that transmission that has a troubleshooting section to get an idea of what might be going on.
