I have a 1999 Oldsmobile 88 that just died on the freeway.
The dash trouble lights do not illuminate when I turn the key on. The turn signals do not work. When I try to start it nothing. I hear a relay by passenger fuse box click, but not the starting solenoid. The odometer does display mileage.
What I did:
Fully charged batter and went to autozone and had battery load tested. They said it was in perfect condition full charge. I confirmed good connection on the battery when I reinstalled.
Check fuses that seemed that seemed be point to engine both interior fuse box and all fuses in engine compartment.
Everything else seems in good order. Head lights, emergency flashers, evaporator fan, mirrors, overhead lights, door locks, windows, radio all work. Headlights are very bright.
Where do I go from here?
Thanks,
Ted
I pulled the starter and had it tested at Autozone. It tested good so I can rule out the starter (and attached starter solenoid. I do hear a click in a relay by the passenger door.
I solved it the ignition switch is bad. Everything pointed to the switch so I purchased a new switch and plugged it in to test. I was able to switch so the idiot lights came on. It was great to see them 🙂
Now comes the fun part of pulling the steering wheel and assembly to get to it so I can install the new ignition switch.
Thanks to all the people who responded and with suggestions. You got me on the right track. Thanks @jack62 for the schematic and diagram and step by step instructions.
You may want to pick one of those circuits and troubleshoot it.
It's likely the reason that one or those circuits isn't working is the reason the other circuits aren't working.
If the starter circuit is involved I always pick that one because it's so easy to troubleshoot.
You need to have a test light for this. 10 bucks.
On yours they don't call it a Starter Relay and it isn't in any of the fuse boxes.
It's called the Starter Enable Relay and it's mounted on the left of the steering column on the dashboard frame. You have to pull off the trim panel to find it.
It's wired like this and you test it like any other Starter Relay.
This circuit has a few "major players".
Look at the Starter Enable Relay in the diagram and follow along.
First, look at the 60 amp fuse and the ignition switch. The "Load Side" of the Starter Enable Relay gets Battery Power (12 volts + or - ) through the Yellow wire when the Key is in the Start position. That's Pin 30 on the Starter Enable Relay in the wiring diagram.
Next, the airbag VATS (security system (((PassKey))) fuse in the Passenger Compartment fuse box, Fuse 2E, provides Power to the "Control Side" of the Starter Enable Relay to give power to the relay's electromagnetic coil when the Key is in the Start position . That's Pin 86 on the Starter Enable Relay (@doc gave you a fuse box diagram link to identify that fuse).
Finally, the Passkey Theft Deterrent Module in combination with the Park/Neutral Switch provides a Ground to the "Control Side" of the Starter Enable Relay when key is in the Start Position to energize the relay coil. That's Pin 85 0n the Starter Enable Relay. That's what energizes the relay coil and sends Power (through relay sockets 30 & 87) to your Starter Solenoid and makes your starter crank the engine.
Long story short. Locate that Starter Enable Relay and pull it out.
With the test Light alligator clip on Battery Post NEGATIVE. The test light should light up when you probe Starter Enable Relay sockets 30 & 86 with the Key in the Start Position.
If those are good, switch the test light's alligator clip to the Battery POSITIVE post.
Probe the Starter Enable Relay socket 85 with the Key in the Start Position. The test light should light up.
One of these tests will fail (because your starter doesn't spin and your electrical system has other related issues).
There's plenty of youtubes on how to test starter relay sockets with a test light but if you have any questions like how to identify the relay sockets or how to use a test light come back and ask us.
Either way, let us know your test results.
Thanks for the schematic and steps to test the starter. I borrowed the Chilton manual from the library, but it does not have very detailed schematics.
Do you have a schematic showing the "run" position circuit of the ignition switch.
When it is in the run position, the diagnostic (idiot) lights do not illuminate including the check engine light. The left/right turn signals do not work (emergency flashers work, always powered). Since the turn signals and dashboard lights are on different circuits, I am suspecting the ignition switch or a relay when the ignition is in the 'run' position. Am I on the right track? A schematic of the "run" for the ignition would help me troubleshoot that theory.
Thanks for your extensive reply.
That's why testing the starter enable relay sockets will be helpful. It isn't testing the starter, it's testing those 3 circuits going to the relay. If you want to test wiring to the starter solenoid, just jump 12 volts to socket 87. That will energize the starter solenoid
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In the wiring diagram socket 30 should have power from the ignition switch with the key in the Start position
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If it doesn't, that points you toward the ignition switch and that 30 amp fuse circuit that's providing Power to the ignition switch
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I'll look around for the ignition switch pinout
I cannot locate the starter enable relay so I took some screenshots, can you point me to it? https://postimg.cc/gallery/6nLfz3V
Also I can't locate item 11 (second thing you said to remove). Is that bracket that goes below the steering column?
I did test power at the airbag/vats fuse (2E) and it had power with the ignition in the 'start' position, but had no power when I released the key and it was in the 'run' position. That should give me power at pins 30 and 86 when I find the relay as the fuse is good. I'll test pins 85 and 87 when I find the relay.
There is a purple line below the fuse that goes to the instrument cluster system. Shouldn't this have supplied power to the instrument panel and I should have seen the trouble (idiot) lights?
Thanks,
Ted
The location diagram shows (1) to remove the panel and bracket. Then (2) states the relay is Next to the upper bracket with steering column connector.
It looks like you've removed the panel but the bracket is giving you trouble
.
Picking one circuit is supposed to make the diagnosis easier, but the location of this relay is making it harder
.
Why not try this. You've tested Fuse 2E and it did what it's supposed to do. It should have Power in Key START position but not in the Key RUN position
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Why not select a couple other fuses to test that should have Power in both Key START AND RUN positions
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The Turn Signal fuse should be START and RUN
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The Fuel Pump fuse will definitely be START and RUN (I think it's in the other fuse box on the Passenger side)
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See if those get power in Both key positions.
make sure you've tested all the fuses. You don't have to pull each one out. Grab a multimeter and test continuity on the fuse test tabs. It will only take a couple of minutes. There's youtubes on how to do that
Probably need a new starter relay -
AC Delco OEM # 24398RH
I tried finding the starter relay. Is it one of these? I also pulled the starter took it to autozone and had it tested. They said it was good.
Ignition switch.
I borrowed the Chilton manual from the library, but it does not have very detailed schematics.
You need ask for their digital resources
